Arnish Moor Jacket Help!

[am1745]

I'm getting a jacket made to the design of the arnish moor patterm, i'm using some Wilson Tartan i bought to wear as a great kilt but its too heavy, anyway my question is should the jacket be made with the tartan going down the way like a kilt or diagonal?

[M. A. C. Newsome]

For the sake of others reading, here is the Arnish Moor jacket:
http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/Jacket.htm

You can buy the pattern for it from the museum, here:
http://giftshop.scottishtartans.org/patterns.htm

The original was not tartan, but you will see eighteenth century doublets made from tartan both on the bias and straight. I think tartan doublets on the bias look extremely nice, so that would be my choice!

[Kerr the Walker]

I would vote on the bias as well.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I agree with Matt-- if you are going to do it, do it with style and have your tailor cut your jacket on the bias. That said, make sure that he understands that all of the diagonals must line up on the front, as well as meet at the shoulders.

[McMurdo]

I would have to say the bias is the way to go, it will to my mind make a better looking presentation.

[JSFMACLJR]

As I have a tartan doublet cut on the bias, I can certainly recommend it! Just make sure you have a very good tailor who has experience with such things, and make sure you have ample cloth.


Sandford

[Highlander31]

I would say the bias.

[Sir William]

Like Matt, I've seen portraits showing jackets and waistcoats cut on the straight and on the bias. I think the bias looks much better and a bit more distinctive or unique to modern eyes.

[1MUNK3]

My vote is absolutely on the bias !

[The Barry]

On the bias, no question. But that is going to make matching up the sett rather difficult I would think.