Darts on a stillwater standard - X Marks the Scot

yoippari · #1 09-08-2005, 03:42 PM

I don't know if this is standard for kilts, stillwater's, or if it is a one time thing. The "darts" shown here are... odd. The one on the left side (right side of the picture) on the outer apron are darts at the bottom of the kilt, but at the top it is just a deep pleat with soft creases about 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" from the edge. This seems to make the pleat hang funny with a transition part way down. IS THIS NORMAL?

Probably on an unrelated note the bottom of the front apron seems to want to pull to the right. It pulls the left pleats out a bit and wants to stick to or grab the underapron further pulling the pleats around. I must note that while my measurement was 37 1/4" I ordered a 38" so that if nesassery I could have the it adjusted down, as adjusting up is a little more of a hassle. Because of this I can either wear it with just a belt or I can use the straps and buckles. But with using both the aprons simply bunch up underneath the belt buckle or the belt is too loose.

Oh ya. YAY my first kilt!

Another ohya: aren't standards supposed to be pleated to the sett This one seems "close" but often I see the same center line on three pleats in a row. And upon closer inspection those "soft creases" are all over the pleats.

Barb T. · #2 09-09-2005, 05:23 AM

Hi

Any "darts" (in the true sewing sense of the word - triangle-shaped folds) should be hidden inside the _top_ of the first and last pleat. You shouldn't see anything that looks like a dart either at the bottom of the kilt or on the front of the apron. If the kilt is properly made, these hidden darts help shape the back side of the first, deep pleat to the left of the apron and the back side of inverted pleat on the underapron edge. And the fold edge of both the deep pleat and the inverted pleat must be pulled _up_ during construction and so that the tartan stripes match horizontally on the inside. Once steamed into position, this makes the inside of the pleat a little skewed, which helps keep that first pleat closed. The other reason that the first pleat sometimes flaps open is if that first pleat isn't pressed quite in the right place for your body shape. You might try steaming the pleat open, putting the kilt on, and seeing where it wants to fold naturally. If there isn't enough flare for your body shape, simply basting and re-pressing with a little more flare might solve the problem.

Having said all this, there are some body shapes (people with chubby or muscular thighs) where you just can't keep that first pleat from flipping forward.

Cheers!

Barb

yoippari · #3 09-09-2005, 11:54 PM

So what is the point to these "darts"? On the right side they just sit there as unused creases. On the left they hang and fold a little near the bottom.

On the left side the folds want to do this https://home.comcast.net/~momsthebos...Apron_Dart.JPG
But when just hanging they simply sitck out
https://home.comcast.net/~momsthebos...ble_dart_2.JPG

Riverkilt · #4 09-19-2005, 02:01 PM

Boy, we sure left you dangling in the wind on that one...no response.

Thanks for taking such great close up photos of your Stillwater. I was all set to order my first two, but did a search for Stillwater and found the pics...now I'm reconsidering, but at least I have a solid grasp of reality instead of just hopes and expectations of what I'll get for a bargain price.

I'm gonna keep searching the Stillwater posts. If I find anything will let you know.

Ron

yoippari · #5 09-19-2005, 02:19 PM

Just out of curiosity, do these creases appear on any other kilts? Other stillwaters?

Southern Breeze · #6 09-19-2005, 02:52 PM

For what it's worth I have three Stillwaters-2 heavyweight,and 1 standerd.None of them have those type creases.All of them are less than a month old.Maybe it's just an odd kilt.

yoippari · #7 09-19-2005, 02:54 PM

With the lack of responses I kinda figured it was a one time thing. I guess that I will just iron them out if they don't serve any purpose.

Barb T. · #8 09-19-2005, 03:41 PM

Wow - that's _weird_. Kind of looks like the person who was doing the pressing didn't notice that the edge of the apron was folded over when the pressing was done. From what your photos look like, this shouldn't be there at all. I'd just steam it out.

Barb

yoippari · #9 09-20-2005, 10:42 AM

Actually the creases go straight and disappear under the waist band. So they were there before it was sewn.

macgreggor · #10 09-20-2005, 11:06 AM

WOW yoippari,

I just looked at you photos. I haven't even HEARD of anyone else having that problem with a SWK. If 'twere me I would contact Jerry directly, maybe email him the pics. At the very least he should know a bout quality control problems.

macG