Purchasing tartan fabric

**Riverkilt** · 20th September 10, 06:05 PM

There's a difference between Lochcarron 16 ounce Strome in Isle of Skye tartan.

And Marton Mills Isle of Skye tartan in Polyviscose

Much smaller sett on the Marton Mills PV. Or does Marton Mills also make the Isle of Skye in a larger sett in wool.

Just wanna be sure you know the differences - apologies if this is old information.

**MacMillans son** · 20th September 10, 06:25 PM

Hi Danwell,

I have learned on this board that there is also the issue of symmetrical vs. asymmetrical tartans when ordering your material. Asymmetrical double width tartans can not be torn down the middle and rejoined due to twill, and selvage not mating back up. Be sure to inform the mill of your intentions to make an eight yard kilt prior to ordering. They will often times carry, or can provide, kilt lengths (1/2 width of an eight yard length) of asymmetrical tartans pre-torn.

If you order 4 yards double width of an asymmetrical tartan you will have two usable 4 yard lengths, but not be able to join them to make a proper eight yard kilt.

Again, this only applies to asymmetrical tartans.

Welcome to the obsession!

**Danwell** · 20th September 10, 06:44 PM

Originally Posted by Riverkilt

There's a difference between Lochcarron 16 ounce Strome in Isle of Skye tartan.

And Marton Mills Isle of Skye tartan in Polyviscose

Much smaller sett on the Marton Mills PV. Or does Marton Mills also make the Isle of Skye in a larger sett in wool.

Just wanna be sure you know the differences - apologies if this is old information.

I'm aware of the size difference when it comes to Marton Mills' polyviscose and that's why I decided on their IoS wool; it's sett size is 7.33 inches. Thanks for looking out for me though

Originally Posted by MacMillan's son

I have learned on this board that there is also the issue of symmetrical vs. asymmetrical tartans when ordering your material. Asymmetrical double width tartans can not be torn down the middle and rejoined due to twill, and selvage not mating back up. Be sure to inform the mill of your intentions to make an eight yard kilt prior to ordering. They will often times carry, or can provide, kilt lengths (1/2 width of an eight yard length) of asymmetrical tartans pre-torn.

If you order 4 yards double width of an asymmetrical tartan you will have two usable 4 yard lengths, but not be able to join them to make a proper eight yard kilt.

Again, this only applies to asymmetrical tartans.

Are asymmetical tartans all that common? The only tartans that I'm really interested in are my clan (which is symmetrical), and a few fashion tartans (IoS, Holyrood....the Capercaillie is very nice too) and they're all symmetrical so I don't think it's an issue at this point. That being said, when the illness takes over and I end up following in Ron's or Ham's footsteps, the story may change

Welcome to the obsession!

Thanks......My wife is already freaking out.

I suppose in the beginning there is a significant outlay, but once you've got a few pairs of hose, a formal jacket and a day wear jacket etc etc, you've got them for life (or until they're worn out) and don't need to buy them again. Not like womens shoes or handbags or clothing that is out of fashion ten minutes after you bought it!

**Paul Henry** · 20th September 10, 11:43 PM

Originally Posted by Danwell

Are asymmetical tartans all that common? The only tartans that I'm really interested in are my clan (which is symmetrical), and a few fashion tartans (IoS, Holyrood....the Capercaillie is very nice too) and they're all symmetrical so I don't think it's an issue at this point. That being said, when the illness takes over and I end up following in Ron's or Ham's footsteps, the story may change

Asymetrical tartans are slightly unnusual,but there are a few notable examples, Canada's Maple Leaf , and Buchanan; so yes as Macmillan's son has said there are issues in spliting a 4 yard double width piece, it is an unusual thing. I got some Buchanan once, and was actually asked did I want a 8 yd split length for a kilt, or would a 4 yard double do for something else, so I'm sure that most weavers are aware of the issues!

Marton Mills IOS in wool looks very nice, I have a sample on my table at the moment,and indeed am tempted myself..... you see the obsession is probably worse for a kiltmaker having to look at beautiful samples all the time.....

**Tartan Tess** · 21st September 10, 02:40 AM

Boy is that true. Having spent time last week-end at my friends kilt making booth at the games, I couldn't keep my hands off the sample books.....and I have three tartans waiting in the wings for me to finish the kilt I am working on this week!
P.S. Isle of Skye is one of the most beautiful tartans in my opinion.

**Pleater** · 21st September 10, 03:23 AM

I note that you are going to use just about all the width of the fabric in the main part of the kilt - assuming that the fabric is 54 inches wide and the kilt length being 26.5 inches.

Only one inch would be cut away - and if the selvage needed to be turned up to hide it then nothing would be left over.

Hopefully - by ordering enough fabric - the waist band or binding could be made from two strips cut across the fabric, selvage to selvage, and when joined would match the set size well enough across the top of the apron.

As I am just dealing with a fabric where the tartan is not woven as squares but rectangles, that solution would not work for me in similar circumstances, but I am happy to work around that.

You might be able to find a plain tape wide enough to use as a binding and of a toning colour, but it might be wise to consult with prospective kilt makers about just how much fabric might be required - you need, for instance, to be able to cope with an unfortunate cutting of the sett which would mean losing fabric to place the set nicely on the apron.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**MacLowlife** · 21st September 10, 05:32 AM

[QUOTE=Danwell;913075

I suppose in the beginning there is a significant outlay, but once you've got a few pairs of hose, a formal jacket and a day wear jacket etc etc, you've got them for life (or until they're worn out) and don't need to buy them again. Not like womens shoes or handbags or clothing that is out of fashion ten minutes after you bought it![/QUOTE]

This may not be true for others, (and may never occur in Australia) but I find that kilts and other wool garments like jackets have shrunk over time in my closet. There is nothing permanent.

**Danwell** · 1st October 10, 06:38 AM

Last week I request via email that Marton Mills send me a few samples of their IoS, Holyrood and Black Watch tartans with a view to ordering a kilt length - they came yesterday and I must say that I am VERY happy with the samples I received. There seems to be a bit of a difference between the 16oz and 13oz fabrics as far as weight and feel, but not as much as I thought there would be.

So I looked over what they sent me, and spoke to my wife at length (and even though I've got a kilt on order from John at Keltoi as we speak) and I've just now placed an order for a length of Holyrood.

I decided on it before the IoS (which I will be getting a bit further down the track) because it's a completely different palette than the kilt coming from John.

Thanks for the pointers in this thread.....I really appreciate the advice!

**Paul Henry** · 1st October 10, 06:52 AM

well done, great choice, and Marton Mills is easy to deal with , and normally send out the orders very quickly,so the jonesing should go very quickly!