 | | 
01-31-2007, 07:40 PM
|  | Retired House Chairman | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Space Coast, FL
Posts: 3,601
| | | Sett size and pleat depth...
I am starting a pleated garmet made in the traditional kilt manner for my wife (not going to name the garment, might provide fuel for this fire!) It is the tartan seen below. My question is how deep should I make the pleats? The sett is 4.5", and I am going to pleat to the center white stripe. That makes a nice 1" reveal, but if I only use one sett per pleat, the depth is kind of small, only 3.5". For a traditional look and swish, should I consider
2 setts per pleat? That gives a (virtual) 9" sett. And with a 1" reveal at the hips, a 4" depth (8" material), which is quite nice.
Any thoughts, especially from our more trad makers? 
__________________
Life is too short to pay attention to the stupid, and WAY too short to waste time educating them. Ignorance can be cured through education, but not stupidity.
|
01-31-2007, 07:51 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,045
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by KiltedCodeWarrior  I am starting a pleated garmet made in the traditional kilt manner for my wife (not going to name the garment, might provide fuel for this fire!) It is the tartan seen below. My question is how deep should I make the pleats? The sett is 4.5", and I am going to pleat to the center white stripe. That makes a nice 1" reveal, but if I only use one sett per pleat, the depth is kind of small, only 3.5". For a traditional look and swish, should I consider
2 setts per pleat? That gives a (virtual) 9" sett. And with a 1" reveal at the hips, a 4" depth (8" material), which is quite nice.
Any thoughts, especially from our more trad makers? | Go with the larger pleats! Please use as much material as possible.
__________________
The Grant. |
01-31-2007, 07:53 PM
|  | This member has been inactive for more than 1 year | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Clinton, South Carolina (USA)-> Atlanta native
Posts: 1,800
| | |
Personally, I'd use a double. It allows for deeper pleats. I'd go for wider reveal with deeper pleats than a narrower with shallow pleats for a given piece of fabric. Most of the time, that isn't really an option and the sett determines the pleating, period.
I hope she like her (s)Kirt!
__________________
MacWage, "Dark Lord of the Box Pleat!"/ "Box Pleat Militant" Laird of Glenmoor (Carolina)
CARPE TARTANAM! (Seize the Tartan!)
|
01-31-2007, 07:53 PM
|  | Has not logged in for 1 year | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Bartlett, Tenn
Posts: 1,787
| | |
Very nice tartan! I'm partial to red tartans. Must post pics when finished!
__________________
I don't care if you battled the enemies of Freedom or if you battled boredom, If you Served you Deserve our Respect and Gratitude!
Copula eame se non posit acceptar jocularum
Calix Meus Inebrians
Notio bonum, visa olum. |
01-31-2007, 07:56 PM
| | Membership Revoked | | Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,985
| | |
Red?
That is pepto bismal pink!
And I want pictures when it is done... That is gonna look fabu!
Go with as deep of pleats as possible.
|
01-31-2007, 07:58 PM
|  | Retired Forum Moderator | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Snellville, Ga
Posts: 3,019
| | |
Either way, she is going to get noticed in that pink y chromosome challenged garment.
__________________
"A veteran, whether active duty, retired, national guard or reserve, is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life." That is honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it." anon
|
01-31-2007, 08:18 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Fergus Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,007
| | |
Personnally I go with the 1" reveal and the deep pleat you'll get a better swish when your wife walks GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!! plus you'll have a more substance to your kilt.
__________________
MacHummel
|
01-31-2007, 08:25 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Exeter, New Hampshire
Posts: 347
| | |
Deeper pleats. Gonna look mighty cool. I could see one for you too with a "Tough Enough To Wear PINK" tee shirt. Just a thought!
|
02-01-2007, 06:07 AM
|  | Author of "The Art of Kiltmaking" | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deansboro, NY
Posts: 2,136
| | |
Hi!
Can't make this decision without more information. Pleated with a double sett, each pleat will use 9" of tartan. The apron and underapron will take up over 2 yards total (probably more like 80", if you put in a good deep pleat to the left of the apron). If the kilt had 23 pleats, you'd need another 207" for the pleats, for a total of exactly 8 yards. If you have that much, it will work. If you only have 6 yards (216"), you'd have 216-80 for the pleats or 136" for the pleats. That would make only 15 pleats.
So, it depends on how much tartan you have and how many pleats you want.
Also, how wide is that multiple white stripe that you're going to pleat to? If it's about as wide as the pleat will be, the back of the kilt could look pretty busy - lots of little white stripes with not much red. If that were the case, I'd _definitely_ go for the double sett, even if you don't have 8 yards, because that would force the pleats to be wider and to include more red on each side of the white. This will be particularly important if your wife has a significant hip/waist differential. If the white stripes just fit into a pleat at the hips, and the pleats have to taper much toward the top, some of the edge stripes will pinch out between the hip and the top, and that won't look very good.
So, my advice is to calculate how many pleats you can get with each option, then figure out how wide the reveal would have to be (which will be governed by the # of pleats - if you can get only 15 pleats and you need 20" (for example) across the pleats, that will require pleats with a reveal of more than 1.25", not 1").
Then, do a test pinning _both_ at the hips and the waist so that you can see what the pleats will look like tapered.
And keep us posted with what you decide to do!!!
Barb
Last edited by Barb T.; 02-01-2007 at 09:01 AM.
|
02-01-2007, 10:41 AM
|  | | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Manteca, California
Posts: 1,025
| | | Alternative thinking
KCW,
So far only two choices have been presented for kilt pleating (as opposed to a kilted skirt), one with shallow depth and one with mega-depth.
An alternative is to split the difference. Consider putting the white center stripe down one pleat, then moving over only 1 1/2 setts and putting a solid pink color block down the next pleat, another 1 1/2 setts and a white center stripe down the next, and so on...
To my mind, that would present a bold presentation of white stripe and solid pink, without getting "busy" at all.
w2f
__________________
"Listen Men.... You are no longer bound down to the unmanly dress of the Lowlander." 1782 Repeal.
* * * * *
Lady From Hell vs Neighbor From Hell @ http://way2noisy.blogspot.com
Last edited by way2fractious; 02-01-2007 at 03:34 PM.
Reason: spelling
| | |
| X Marks Advertisers |  |  For Quality Scottish Made Products at Affordable Prices |  |  | |
|
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | | Display Modes |  Linear Mode |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
| | |
|
|
