Sewing down pleats

[Splinty]

So I'm making a kilt for myself out of a nice green unaffiliated plaid. I was wondering if anyone had ever sewn the pleats all the way down. Just at the edge of the crease, so the movement isn't impeded and very little (like a mm or less) fabric is caught in the sewn part. I'm thinking if it is hand sewn properly with a invisible seam, it will make ironing less necessary and will keep the pleats neater while wearing.

Has anyone ever done or thought of doing this? This is a casual kilt, not fancy or anything. Since it's for everyday wear (and is cotton) I was trying to think of easy ways to make it less upkeep. (Yes, I know hand sewing that much linear feet doesn't sound easy.. but it's not a big deal to me.)

Thoughts?

[ardchoille]

Well, in cotton, that would make for less upkeep. Alan's X-Kilt manual teaches a similar method and it's quite popular. The first thing that comes to my mind is how visible the sewing/thread is going to be. Matching thread and material color would seem to be best unless you're going for an intentional contrast.

I say, go for it.. and then post pics of the finished products

[sewsleepy]

Hi,
I used a double needle, size 4.0. I started at the top and sewed down to the bottom. It really does minimize ironing. Looks nice also.
Kathie

[Carolina Kiltman]

So I'm making a kilt for myself out of a nice green unaffiliated plaid. I was wondering if anyone had ever sewn the pleats all the way down. Just at the edge of the crease, so the movement isn't impeded and very little (like a mm or less) fabric is caught in the sewn part. I'm thinking if it is hand sewn properly with a invisible seam, it will make ironing less necessary and will keep the pleats neater while wearing.

Has anyone ever done or thought of doing this? This is a casual kilt, not fancy or anything. Since it's for everyday wear (and is cotton) I was trying to think of easy ways to make it less upkeep. (Yes, I know hand sewing that much linear feet doesn't sound easy.. but it's not a big deal to me.)

Thoughts?

You have your answer from Sewsleepy. I might add that it was used back in the 40's and 50's in women's slacks, as the fabric finishes then available wouldn't hold a crease very well. I don't, however, ever remembering it done on men's trousers, though.

If the material is a good quality wool, then it probably wouldn't be necessary. My wool "tank" has been rather heavily worn, (several time weekly) for over two years now, and still has nice sharp creases in the pleats.

[george7]

If you didn't want to show stitching you might consider using stichwitch or some other adhesive non-stitch procedure.

[Splinty]

Carolina... It's cotton... sewing them down helps immensely. I used a matching thread and an inside stitch. You have to get darn close to notice

Thanks for the help everyone ;)

[Aldisimo]

Most commercial casual kilts that I've seen, for example, Utilikilts and Alpha Kilts, edgestitch the pleats when the fabric is denim or twill or similar. I don't know about wool, PV, and acrylic.

[Barb T.]

It does change the look of the pleats, so you'd want to have a good reason for doing it. The fact that fabrics other than wool don't hold good creases is a good reason. That's why most people who make kilts from cotton stitch the edges of their pleats (like Steve's fab Freedom Kilts).

I wouldn't ever do it on a wool kilt, regardless of the weight. It's unnecessary (wool holds a good crease), and the back of the kilt would look quite a bit different.

[siva011]

My first "kilt" (from a costume like shop at a ren fest) was cotton, and the pleats were stiched down at the top but not all the way through like you are suggesting. After a couple of wears, the pleats just wouldn't stay. No matter how much I pressed prior to wearing, after an hour or two I would have a completely un-pleated kilt. It was horrible. I starched heavily, left the "sash" they had attached hang in the back to cover the lack of pleats, and really thought of stiching like you suggest here....

Then I found this site and got a SWK....

Anyway, it was a major headache dealing with these "pleats". The cotton didn't hold at all. Stiching them down now may save a bit of embarassment later.

[Tommie]

Amerikilt stiches the pleats all the way down and dont bother to hide it,but thiers are solid color casuals,and even then the pleats do not hold that well.

As i said in another thread,if your making your own and can't afford wool,then try tweed.As for Cotton.Forget it.