Vest cut on the bias or not?

[davidg]

Here's another one for you all. Is a vest, cut on the bias, more traditional or more acceptable for formal wear than one that is not?

Personally I prefer the vest cut on the bias as I think it looks smarter and I am not aware of any particular conventions or traditions. As I'm about to get one made though I was wondering if there's anything I should be aware of

[Downunder Kilt]

I am not aware of any traditional precedence for a tartan waistcoat being cut on the bias or not but it is the way I would go if I was getting one tailored.

[CMcG]

To my knowledge there is no difference in formality between square cut or bias cut tartan vests. My preference is for the look of bias cut because it provides some contrast against the sett of one's kilt. I think a lower cut vest (3 or 3 buttons) is considered to be more formal, because it shows off more of one's pleated or piqué white shirt.

That being said, my tartan vest is square cut and has a higher gorge... I would still wear it for formal events though. It came as part of set on eBay and it was too good of a deal to pass up!

[OC Richard]

I prefer tartan waistcoats to be cut on the bais for the simple visual reason that if the waistcoat is cut horizonal-vertical it can look like an extension of the kilt itself.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

This is by no means based on a dedicated study, but the impression I have is that most pictures I have seen of tartan waistcoats over the years have been with the tartan on the bias, so I would say that the precedent leans in that direction.

Although I would follow this by saying that I have also seen many formal waistcoats made with the tartan straight, and they look just fine. So either is acceptable. To me, it would come down to a matter of personal preference. But I believe the bias option has more historical precedence to it.

[davidlpope]

I prefer tartan waistcoats to be cut on the bais for the simple visual reason that if the waistcoat is cut horizonal-vertical it can look like an extension of the kilt itself.

+1.

[Santa Kona]

Can someone post a few photo's of front and back of a bias cut waistcoat? I think that would help.

[paulhenry]

Can someone post a few photo's of front and back of a bias cut waistcoat? I think that would help.

the front:

I don't have one of the back but it exactly the same as a standard waistcoat with a silk back, so nothing very unusual.

As the waistcoats I make are almost always for use with jackets, I much prefer the back to be plain and smooth, and even if it was to be worn without a jacket , it also doesn't add much thickness or weight .I think that the "face" or "tartan" fabric all the way is uneeded, but I know some wearers prefer it that way.Traditional waistcoats normally have a plain back,or one with a contrasting colour, which adds a little bit of hidden colour when ocasionally seen.
The bottom line I think is to talk to your maker , and they will almost always be happy to make it whichever you want!

[Chas]

I prefer tartan waistcoats to be cut on the bais for the simple visual reason that if the waistcoat is cut horizonal-vertical it can look like an extension of the kilt itself.

I agree totally. If a 'Gentleman of Substance' removes his jacket and happens to be wearing a straight cut waistcoat, I think the resulting image is unfortunate. We have seen some pictures here of great slabs of tartan with a head stuck on top - not a pretty sight.

Bias cut every time. I have no reason for saying so, but they look one notch more formal than straight cut.

Regards

Chas

[JSFMACLJR]

Can someone post a few photo's of front and back of a bias cut waistcoat? I think that would help.

Here is the front of mine:



The back is red silk.