Highland Evening Doublet made of Strome Tartan - X Marks the Scot

creagdhubh · #1 06-23-2010, 02:58 PM

Greetings all,

I am curious to know what you're opinion is of having a traditional Highland evening doublet, whether it be in the style and cut of the Montrose, Kenmore, Balmoral, Appin, or Sheriffmuir variants, made of 16 ounce, Strome tartan by Lochcarron (my preferred tartan mill and of which all of my kilts are made of)? I am well aware that the aforementioned doublets are commonly made of black/coloured barathea wool or coloured cotton velvet, both of which I absolutely adore. I typically wear a three button 16 ounce, Strome tartan waistcoat, cut on the bias (in 4 different Macpherson tartans), with my black barathea Regulation doublet, both of which are bespoke from Kinloch-Anderson, for evening wear, however, I want something more...I wish to go much further with my evening attire.

I have the insatiable desire to have have a bespoke evening doublet of some sort, preferably a doublet that has a high collar, and in which one would normally wear a lace jabot and cuffs, made of 16 ounce, Strome tartan from Lochcarron. I am obviously a Macpherson, so I have many different, and quite handsome setts to choose from for my bespoke doublet. I am in love with the idea of having an evening doublet made of tartan that matches my kilt, and am a wee bit obsessed about it! Don't get me wrong here gents, by no means am I attempting to be ostentatious or even pretentious by desperately wanting to have an evening doublet in a heavyweight, worsted wool Macpherson sett. However, before I "pull the trigger" and begin the arduous process of locating a reputable shop that already posesses the intimate and detailed knowledge of creating heirloom-quality, bespoke Highland evening doublets of many different fashions and cuts, to begin constructing the doublet (hopefully my favourite wee shop in Leith, Kinloch-Anderson, will take on the challenge?!), not to mention the expense, I must take the time to research such a project.

I want to ensure that an evening doublet, complete with lace jabot and cuffs, made of tartan cut on the bias, is not considered a "costume" doublet (akin to the 18th-19th century tartan style doublets), and is universally accepted throughout the Highlands (Jock, Thistledown, Chris, et al) as appropriate evening/formal wear. I have already discussed the subject with my grandfather, and he believes that there is absolutely nothing incorrect with having a Montrose, Kenmore, Sheriffmuir, Appin, Balmoral, or even a Regulation doublet made of heavyweight tartan fabric. He informed me that he has observed this manner of evening dress with the current Chief of the Clan Gregor, Sir Malcolm MacGregor of MacGregor (photo provided below).

Below you will notice a few pertinent questions that I have with regards to the plausible creation of such a striking and interesting piece of Highland evening wear. I would love to hear what you think and whether or not such a doublet is even acceptable to wear for evening/formal events. Thank you for taking the time to address my questions.

1) Should the tartan in the doublet be cut on the bias? Would it matter entirely?

2) If the doublet was made in the style of the Regulation, Appin, or Sheriffmuir, would a tartan waistcoat, either cut on the bias or not, be acceptable?

3) Is matching the type, colour, sett size, and tonality of the Macpherson tartan in the doublet to the Macpherson tartan in the kilt ideal-both aesthetically and traditionally speaking?

Several Examples of Tartan Doublets in Various Styles and from Various Time Periods

Sir Malcolm MacGregor of MacGregor, Bart., 24th hereditary Chief of Clan Gregor.

Figure to the viewer's far left, John Chisholm, painted by Kenneth Macleay.

Figure to the viewer's right, Donald MacNaghton, painted by Kenneth Macleay.

Tartan doublet from the early 19th-century.

The so-called, "Appin" doublet with velvet lapels and pocket flaps, made here by Highland Clans.

Thank you again and slainte mhath,

Ryan Ross · #2 06-23-2010, 04:02 PM

The MacGregor always seems very well dressed. I'd say you couldn't go wrong to follow his example, in this case, so long as that much tartan is your fancy.

For what it's worth, were I you, I'd pull the trigger.

davidlpope · #3 06-23-2010, 04:05 PM

Kyle,

I'm in no position to say what is acceptable in the Highlands, but I do remember a thread that Sandy contributed to which featured photos of several striking tartan doublets. Perhaps a PM to him would be productive.

David

creagdhubh · #4 06-23-2010, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan Ross

The MacGregor always seems very well dressed. I'd say you couldn't go wrong to follow his example, in this case, so long as that much tartan is your fancy.

For what it's worth, were I you, I'd pull the trigger.

Thanks for your reply mate. I do like the amount of tartan that is presented when one wears a tartan doublet with their kilt, however, I think that by having the top portion of the wearer in tartan cut on the bias, ensures that the viewer is able to easily distinguish the doublet from the kilt. I have seen gentlemen wearing their tartan waistcoat without the tartan cut on the bias, and the sett actually lined up rather well with the sett of the kilt, I think this looks fine to me, because normally the wearer has a solid colour doublet or coatee over the tartan waistcoat, thus "breaking up" the tartan ensemble. Of course, the waistcoat cut on the bias looks just as smart in my opinion.

Yours aye,

creagdhubh · #5 06-23-2010, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidlpope

Kyle,

I'm in no position to say what is acceptable in the Highlands, but I do remember a thread that Sandy contributed to which featured photos of several striking tartan doublets. Perhaps a PM to him would be productive.

David

I understand David, however, if you do have an opinion on the subject I am interested to hear what you have to say. Sandy's attire, pictured in his avatar, just looks absolutely stunning to me, as I have always been taken by the look of a tartan doublet, properly made. I have already spoken with him briefly with regards to his Appin doublet, however, I did not see any further photos of him wearing it-good idea to PM him in that regard.

Cheers my friend,

Bugbear · #6 06-23-2010, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidlpope

Kyle,

I'm in no position to say what is acceptable in the Highlands, but I do remember a thread that Sandy contributed to which featured photos of several striking tartan doublets. Perhaps a PM to him would be productive.

David

Same here, and even less.

However, when I think Sandy, I think cut steel buttons...

Just a thought.

artificer · #7 06-23-2010, 04:36 PM

I'm with the rabble, I think it'd be splendid.

creagdhubh · #8 06-23-2010, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugbear

Same here, and even less.

However, when I think Sandy, I think cut steel buttons...

Just a thought.

HA! Yes, quite right.

I would have traditional buttons in hallmarked sterling silver, or perhaps bespoke sterling silver buttons featuring personal heraldry, or a rather specific Clan Macpherson totem (ensuring appropriateness, correctness, and lawfulness in the eyes of my clan, my Chief, and most importantly, the Court of the Lord Lyon).