[ThistleDown]

Go for it, Kyle. In particular, I think the Macpherson you wear in your avatar would be splendid as a doublet.

By the way, I see you have changed your domesticity. Appararently you now live just down the A-9 from me. I'm in Vancouver this week, but how about a pint mid-way at the Old Bridge in Aviemore on either July 3 or July 10? PM me with your mobile and we'll set up a time.

Rex

[creagdhubh]

Originally Posted by BoldHighlander

Here's another one mate, from about 1822 (sorry it isn't a front view):



Go for it, I think you'd look smashing!

Oh wonderful! No, thank you mate, the side view is excellent!

[davidlpope]

Kyle,

I think tartan doublets are splendid, although few have the panache to pull them off. If you're currently defying the American herd by wearing buckle brogues and Argyll hose, though, I'm sure you have what it takes.

IMHO, the real trick to a tartan doublet is simplicity of design- i.e. forgo the usual epaulets, cuffs, etc. unless they're in a contrasting solid color. I'm thinking Sandy's style of doublet, or perhaps a simplified Sheriffmuir would work best. To your specific inquiries:

Originally Posted by creagdhubh

1) Should the tartan in the doublet be cut on the bias? Would it matter entirely?

I think tartan doublets look best when on the bias. I've seen a photo of a doublet not on the bias and it didn't look quite right to my eyes. I think this is more traditional, as well, based on the antique examples out there.

Originally Posted by creagdhubh

2) If the doublet was made in the style of the Regulation, Appin, or Sheriffmuir, would a tartan waistcoat, either cut on the bias or not, be acceptable?

I think certainly yes, although you could always mix it up a bit and do a solid velvet waistcoat in a complimentary color which would look smart.

Originally Posted by creagdhubh

3) Is matching the type, colour, sett size, and tonality of the Macpherson tartan in the doublet to the Macpherson tartan in the kilt ideal-both aesthetically and traditionally speaking?

I think I would avoid this a bit. In other words, if the sett size, or the color shades used were a bit different from your kilt, I think it would add interest to the doublet. Perhaps you could go with the LC Braeriach (13oz.) fabric so that the sett size would be a little smaller. Likewise, you could even use a HOE fabric because of the different colors they use vs. LC (their muted color scheme is really nice)- once again, smaller sett size and slightly different color tones to add interest.

Keep us updated on the process!

Cordially,

David

[creagdhubh]

Originally Posted by ThistleDown

Go for it, Kyle. In particular, I think the Macpherson you wear in your avatar would be splendid as a doublet.

By the way, I see you have changed your domesticity. Appararently you now live just down the A-9 from me. I'm in Vancouver this week, but how about a pint mid-way at the Old Bridge in Aviemore on either July 3 or July 10? PM me with your mobile and we'll set up a time.

Rex

Thanks Rex, yes, I more than likely would use either the Macpherson Hunting tartan or the Macpherson Red Modern-I could also get away with the Clan Chattan tartan as well, which is very handsome and a beautiful sett.

Yes, I have indeed altered my domesticity. I spend the majority of my summers in Scotland (have done so for many years now), specifically Inverness-shire as stated. I have family in Kingussie and Laggan. I will not be in the area until late July this year due to work obligations here in the States. If you are out and about around the A9 stretch in Badenoch at that time, then aye, let's indeed meet for a pint or two! I will be busy during the first week of August with the annual Clan Macpherson rally and gathering in Newtonmore and beyond-yet I always take time to make time for a proper drink!

Thanks for your kind offer Rex, it is much appreciated and I hope that we can meet up. I shall PM you shortly mate.

Cheers,

[creagdhubh]

Thank you for your detailed response David. Your insight and advice has been warmy received and noted and you most certainly bring up very good points-I especially liked when you mentioned to keep the doublet simple and understated. I think I would only have the appropriate amount of buttons on it, this of course depending upon which style of doublet I decide to choose. More than likely, I will not have epaulettes-braided or flat. Not to sound too terribly full of myself (LOL), but I rather think that I have the confidence and panache to pull of a tartan doublet! I am indeed an Argyll hose and buckle brogue kind of guy! Take a wee look at the photos below. Thanks again my friend.

[JSFMACLJR]

Well now, here is a topic I can take great delight in!

Kyle, get a tartan doublet! We've chatted about this some in the past, I know, but feel free to pick my brain.

OK, first off, can Kinloch-Anderson make tartan doublets? I would recommend you check with Stewart Christie, or if you have plenty of cash, go down to London to my tailor Meyer & Mortimer and speak with them. By lots of money I mean at least 3K pounds!

There really are two options: 1. an Argyll-style doublet; 2. a high collored doublet. Both have strengths and weaknesses. I chose the former. I wanted a more "casual" jacket that I could wear in a number of ways: either with a waistcoat and bow tie or jabot, or sans waistcoat with a bow tie for smaller dinners and dances and such. The other style of doublet would be better suited to a jabot--although MacGregor wears either a jabot or a tie with his splendid doublet.

I like tartan doublets on the bias, and did a lot of research and field work to see what's out there. Bias cut might account for 2/3 of the tartan doublets I've seen. I think the sett doesn't have to match perfectly, but it ought to be pretty close IMHO.

Now, I've shown quite a few tartan doublets here before, but I'll do another montage, beginning with mine!

[Riverkilt]

A vest/waistcoat, not a jacket. But when I had my X Marks vest made to go with my X Marks kilt Kathy Lare recommended it be done to match, not on the bias. Of course many on the board recommended the bias. I trusted her opinion due to her schooling.

If it helps any as an option to consider, here's what it looked like together and matching directions of the tartan.

[JSFMACLJR]

And now, some more:

[JSFMACLJR]

These two doublets are without a doubt the nicest tartan doublets I've seen! Funny they both belong to Stewarts...cousins at that!









Both were made in London by Meyer & Mortimer.

[creagdhubh]

Sandy,

I can't tell you enough how excited I was to see your reply, and it was even more special with the delightful photos of yourself (and family I assume in the one photo) in your superb tartan doublet! I do love your doublet and since I have ordered my three button waistcoats from the same establishment that you had your smart doublet tailored, I would feel even more confident ordering a tartan doublet from them as well. I do like the more casual look of the "Argyll" style of doublet, however, I am dying to wear a lace jabot and cuffs with a close-fitting doublet that has a high collar, and may or may not require a belt (possibly with a dirk?). I love the look of the single-breasted Kenmore and the double-breasted Montrose, as well as the relaxing aspect of the Sheriffmuir, which I find having many positive attributes-being it is not as restrictive as the tighter fitting doublets, has "Inverness" flaps, "Argyll" cuffs, and a high collar to set off the lace jabot.

The fact that one could also wear a tartan waistcoat with the Sheriffmuir is an exciting aspect-best of both worlds. The only problem is that I am still unsure if the firm, that I am every loyal to, Kinloch-Anderson, can make any of the aforementioned doublets in Strome tartan. I have sent a detailed e-mail and am awaiting a response-I have conversed with them many times before for previous orders and queries via e-mail, and they are always quick, courteous, professional, and happy to help. I will look into Stewart Christie as well, and thank you very much for mentioning your tailor in London. I am not made of money (at least not at this juncture in my life-I'm only 29!), so I do have a budget that I must adhere to, however, I know that quality, bespoke Highland attire can get rather expensive and is well worth the cost in my humble opinion.

Are you completely satisfied with your tartan doublet?
Is the tailoring, material, and construction up to your standard?
I assume that if I do choose to have my tartan doublet made in the more casual "Argyll" style, the tailor from the establishment that we are both obviosuly aware of and have done business with, can use a different colour for the lapels, front breast pocket, and pocket flaps, base upon the colour of my chosen tartan?
How long did your doublet take to be made? Is it vented in the rear or no?
Did you order your kilt from the same establishment you had your tartan doublet made in order to maximize the sett and colour matching (the tartan is all from the same mill I am sure)?

I may have many more questions, and when I do, I'll be sure to PM you so I do not bore too many members on XMTS!

Thank you again for your advice and for posting the photos...I'd love to see more of your ensembles my friend!

Cheers Sandy,