Kyle:
Do it, definitely. My opinions...and they are nothing more than opinions...
-Cut on the bias, for sure
-Bespoke, definitely...for something this unique and formal, get it custom.
-Waistcoat and jacket have a different 'hang' to the tartan, so while I think a solid color waistcoat might contrast better, both in tartan on the bias would work.
-Matching the tartan on all three pieces really depends on the tartan, I think. The tartan worn by Sir Malcolm MacGregor of MacGregor is very simple and IMHO I don't think it works as well as some of the other pictures in your original post. Honestly, I think a contrast works better...shown by Sandy's waistcoat
and on the jacket itself, and in one of your photos which I'll repost in a moment.
Personally, I think that tartan is too boldly contrasting and too simple for this outfit to work aesthetically well.
Figure to the viewer's far left,
John Chisholm, painted by Kenneth Macleay.
A completely different tartan, here. Also, note that visually the tartan is broken up by the crossbelt, buckles, dirk, hair sporran, brooch and plaid (the angle being different, and the folds in it, help). The hose being different than the rest also helps.
Figure to the viewer's right,
Donald MacNaghton, painted by Kenneth Macleay.
To my eye, this is on the fine line between working well and too much. Again note the contrasting hose, but IMHO it would look better with greater contrast between waistcoat and jacket, or with more ornamentation on the pieces themselves. Imaging this with dark, solid color lapels.
Tartan doublet from the early 19th-century.
Of the pictures you've posted, I like the color contrast here the best.
If this is all indeed the same tartan, the forearms make excellent use of contrast in the sett to stand out against the kilt--note the gold in the tartan on the outside of the forearm, and the same part of the sett was used to make the cuff. The black stitching on the torso, and the buttons, add quality contrast to the outfit.
The so-called, "Appin" doublet with velvet lapels and pocket flaps, made here by
Highland Clans.
If Hugh Hefner wore a kilt and tartan doublet, I imagine it would look like this. If you don't go with the more formal look of the jacket in the above photo, go with this look...it's a modern look, and appears to be able to pull double duty as very formal or casually formal (I am assuming there is a distinction!). As I said earlier, the contrast built in to the piece looks good...IMHO a perfect alternative to the crossbelt/dirk/waist plate etc. that I think make the outfit to viewer's left in the second photo work so well.
This, and the other from the 19th century, stand out to my eye by virtue of the high collar and the tight cut. If you're in good (and stable) shape, this would look killer. Sorry, I have no idea if it would be considered costume or not...but of the pictures here, if you were able to pull of something like the 1st 19th century doublet, in a 21st century style, I suspect your wife will suddenly become very territorial
.
As a final note, again, this is an
opinion...I do think, if the jacket and waistcoat have too low a cut in front, they tend to unbalance one's figure and the closure draws attention to belly, rather than balanced torso or chest.
This is potentially quite a project...take a lot of time, make sure it comes out looking the best it possibly can, to make you look as good as you possibly can. The result will be worth it!
Good luck, and the discussion isn't boring. I'd like to hear more about what you decide on, and Sandy's input.
-Sean
Linear Mode
