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Traditionally Made Kilts and How To Wear Them. This forum sub-section is for those interested in learning about and discussing Traditionally made kilts and to discuss and see examples of how kilts can be worn to emulate a traditional style or fashion

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Old 10-28-2009, 01:10 PM
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Normal or formal?

I was just reading the interesting thread on Brogues, Brogans, Bluchers and Oxfords, i.e. footwear with laces. Before I finish that list, let me add the confusing usage of "Balmoral" to the list- a frequently used term to denote "closed throat" ( ie.e, non blucher) oxfords.

But I come here now, with a new thread a-dangling, not to talk about laced shoes, but about slip ons. I have a friend who wears clogs ( actual Danskos) with his kilt. Personally, I go back and forth for my dressy kilt wear between a pair of festive velvet slippers with the skull and bones ( sets a rather special tone for the event) http://hollisterhovey.blogspot.com/2...-slippers.html (his are similar to mine- I don't know this gent) and ye olde calfskin pumps with grosgrain bow. http://www.brooksbrothers.com/search.process?q=pumps I realize that neither is particularly Scottish, but both are dressy and both are in my closet already. AND they both do well underfoot for the kind of dancing I like to do in a kilt. For those bent on seeing how many tartans they can wear at a time ( or how many tartan garments ) I have seen some elegant tartan slippers available in either BW or the customer's own ( supplied by him) tartan. http://www.shipton-usa.com/black-wat...er-2425-0.html

Endorsements, criticisms, corrections?

When we speak of "classic highland apparel and style" how far afield do we venture? Can we agree that a saxon bow tie and a saxon wing collar shirt are sufficiently classic, (if not strictly highland) to be included? If so, does the same extension apply to opera pumps/ court shoes / evening slippers?
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2009, 03:49 PM
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In general, I tend to think that slip-ons don't look as good with a kilt as lace-ups and buckle shoes do, but a lot depends on the overall effect. I think of slip-ons as a casual shoe, so the rest of the ensemble needs to match. Dress pumps look best with tuxes.

That said, I also tend to think that a well developed personal style worn deliberately is almost always the best accessory.

Regards,
Rex.
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:09 PM
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I wear opera pumps with my kilt at evening affairs. Besides having a bow instead of a buckle, they look very much like some buckle shoes I have see. I have debated designing a way to switch back and forth between buckle and bow.

I purchased them deliberatly so I would have a formal shoe to wear with both my highland formal attire and saxon formal attire. I think buckle brogues would look ridiculous with saxon formal attire but the pumps don't look totally out of place with higland formal attire. I have also been known to wear the velvet Albert slippers on occaision as well. I also agree some tartan Albert slippers would look rather smart if you were going to go down the tartan mixing road.

My thoughts
  #4  
Old 10-28-2009, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacLowlife View Post
When we speak of "classic highland apparel and style" how far afield do we venture? Can we agree that a saxon bow tie and a saxon wing collar shirt are sufficiently classic, (if not strictly highland) to be included? If so, does the same extension apply to opera pumps/ court shoes / evening slippers?
Yes, but I think evening slippers are rather like velvet dinner jackets and are more suited to being worn when entertaining guests in your home, as opposed to wearing them in public.
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:35 PM
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On second thought, I don't have anything interesting, other than cut steel buckles, to add to the discussion, I'll try to stay out of it.

Sorry about that, MacLowlife.
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Last edited by Bugbear; 10-29-2009 at 01:45 AM.
  #6  
Old 10-29-2009, 04:31 AM
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Slip-on shoes were very popular with Highland Dress in the 19th century but seem to have fallen to the wayside in the 20th.

Many many images of Highland Dress show a shoe style one doesn't see anymore which (not ever having heard anyone else refer to it) I have dubbed "buckle loafers".

These shoes look like modern "loafers" but had a nonfunctional buckle. I'm wearing these in my avatar photo.

It was this style, NOT the Mary Jane style, which was worn by officers of the Highland regiments in Levee Dress in the 19th century. There's a wonderful painting, quite detailed, of all ranks of the 74th Foot in 1846 wearing this style.

Seems that at some point in the early 19th century the old bucked shoes with functional buckle evolved into this "buckle loafer".

Here are two officers of the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders in the 1890's, one in Full Dress, the other in Levee Dress. Note the "buckle loafers" worn in Levee Dress:


Last edited by OC Richard; 10-29-2009 at 04:37 AM.
  #7  
Old 10-29-2009, 08:51 AM
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Full-dress brogues & Court shoes

The regulations for levees required military officers to follow the full-dress regulations of their respective regiments. Sometime around the turn of the 20th century these regulations began to include the full-dress brogue with the ankle strap. As with everything else regarding uniform changes, during the period of actually changing over, "old pattern" clothing was allowed to be worn until no longer serviceable. Likewise, some regiments had specific dress regulations for levee dress which did include "court shoes with buckles".

Gentlemen, when attending a levee in civilian Highland attire wore full-dress brogues with buckles on the instep and ankle (see Dress Worn at Court, 1910 et seq). These same shoes were, and are, worn with ordinary Highland formal attire as well (although the sword belts, swords, full plaids, etc., required for levee dress are no longer worn with civilian formal attire).

So why the ankle strap on full-dress brogues? Quite simply to keep the shoe on the foot when engaged in the exuberance of Highland dancing!
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:59 AM
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I think quality slip on shoes such as tassel or penny loafers, in good repair and shine (tip of the hat to Mac and Jock) can look quite good with the kilt in semi dress situations and less formal wear but would probably not wear them with formal. I regularly wear slip on/clog type shoes from Merrel and Dansko on a daily basis when p@ntsed, but that is because of a specific foot spur problem I suffer from and the comfort they bring me instead of wearing closed heel shoes which aggravate the problem significantly. As such in casual situations I will wear the slip ons and not feel that they look bad.

I will not get into the fray about appropriate dress footwear as I only own a pair of ghillie brogues and wear them for dress occasions.
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:18 AM
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Where does one wear a slipper to? I have to admit that they seem very effeminate to me (no offense to you that own and wear them, I just would never be caught dead in them). Is this a social-class issue? I ask because I'm truly curious. I've attended several black tie affairs (mostly military in nature, I'll admit), but never attended anything that was "white-tie". What sort of event these days would constitute white-tie? Even the presidential inaugural ball is black tie, if I'm correct. Don't mean to change the subject or highjack the thread...if I've done that, I'll apologize in advance...but I think that my question is on-topic??
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  #10  
Old 10-29-2009, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longhuntr74 View Post
Where does one wear a slipper to? I have to admit that they seem very effeminate to me (no offense to you that own and wear them, I just would never be caught dead in them). Is this a social-class issue? I ask because I'm truly curious. I've attended several black tie affairs (mostly military in nature, I'll admit), but never attended anything that was "white-tie". What sort of event these days would constitute white-tie? Even the presidential inaugural ball is black tie, if I'm correct. Don't mean to change the subject or highjack the thread...if I've done that, I'll apologize in advance...but I think that my question is on-topic??
Realistically gentlemen's pumps (or court shoes as they are also sometimes called) are worn with traditional white tie and tails. Those who do not wear pumps (some find them impossible to keep on) wear patent leather or highly polished lace up shoes. It would (probably) be considered gauche to wear pumps with silver or cut steel buckles with a traditional white tie ensemble. Although some gentlemen do wear pumps with black tie, this is not really the norm-- especially in the USA.

Evening slippers, which are velvet, really look best in a private setting when worn with black tie. Usually, although not always, they are worn in concert with a velvet smoking jacket by one's host to set the tone of the evening-- yes it's a black tie dinner, but it is going to be a very relaxed evening none the less.

When is white tie worn? Sadly, not often enough-- at least in my opinion. When I lived in Dublin there would be half a dozen white tie affairs each year, plus another two or three in London or Edinburgh or on the Continent. Some of these events would be things such as the Royal Warrant Holders annual dinner, or the Queen Charlotte's Ball in London. You always knew when it would be a white tie function because the invitation would specify "white tie". (Incidentally, miniature medals are only worn to these events if the invitation reads-- "White tie, decorations".) Here in the USA I think one would be lucky to attend one white tie event a year, if that.

Since the general rules regarding white tie/black tie are the same whether in traditional or Highland attire, I don't think you've taken this off topic, at all.

Last edited by MacMillan of Rathdown; 10-29-2009 at 04:20 PM.
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