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22nd November 08, 08:42 AM
#11
 Originally Posted by English Bloke
McMurdo.
I thank you for your compliments but I think what I have here is neither an Argyll or a Crail. I am under the impression that Crail Jackets are the same cut as Argyll Jackets but with Prince Charlie style cuffs. This has no cuffs at all hence, in part, my initial disappoinment and the main reason for removing the gaudy buttons which appeared ridiculous when sewn to the sleeves for no apparent reason. I recall a post from PHIL explaining the historic function of silver buttons but the buttons that came with this jacket would not pay for a beer, let alone a mercenary's funeral.
To be fair, It is made of good quality wool but it is not a great piece of tailoring so I have made what I consider, the best of a bad job. I've decided I'll replace this garment in due course and chalk it up to experience. I bought it on a must have one now wave of enthusiasm but will not go to the retailer again... ever! I won't replace it soon because I have a special kilt in the making and other commitments which take priority so this will do for now. I have no pressure to replace it in the NOW term anyway.
I really do appreciate your comments. You are a man of impeccable taste and sartorial elegance and your advice is most valued and I take your point about the three button waistcoat.
The cuff you are describing is a Breamar cuff, ie the Prince Charlie cuff the Crail is more akin to a business suit ie no cuff at all here is an old post of mine that explains the difference.
 Originally Posted by McMurdo
Argyll Jackets
The Argyll day/evening jacket is versatile, altering its formality with accessories.
Suitable for all occasions, from dinners and Burns Suppers, balls and ceilidhs, to weddings, graduations,
Highland games or simply as general day wear.
Braemar Jackets
Similar to the Argyll jacket, but with more formal Prince Charlie style cuffs,
the versatile Braemar can alter its formality by changing accessories.
Suitable for all occasions, from dinners and dances, to graduations and weddings,
or simply as smart day wear.
Crail Jackets
Similar to the Argyll jacket, but with less formal plain cuffs, the day/evening wear Crail outfit
is often seen at events such as ceilidhs, games, or simply as general office or day wear.
Also suitable for wedding guests too.
I hope this helps.
"If the Party could thrust its hand into the past and say this or that even, it never happened—that, surely, was more terrifying than mere torture and death."
- George Orwell, 1984, Book 1, Chapter 3
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22nd November 08, 10:16 AM
#12
Degrees of Formality
A minor word regarding degrees of formality:
An Argyll (or any of its variants) is a day wear jacket if it is cut from any sort of tweed, or course fabric. A proper evening wear jacket (like a Prince Charlie or an Argyll) must be cut from a fine cloth (like barathea). Colour, rather than the cut, of the jacket plays a key role in the distinction between "day" and "evening" wear. Day wear jackets can be in any colour. Evening wear (unless velvet) should be black. Grey, which is considered "formal day wear" may be worn in the evening with a four-in-hand tie, but should be avoided for formal, black tie events.
A black jacket may be worn at any time of day; a coloured jacket is best not worn in the evening.
I think that most gentlemen on this forum would agree that a black barathea Argyll-style jacket with two matching waistcoats (one five/six button, the other three button) is the most versatile combination as it can do triple duty for both day and evening, as well as formal evening, events.
Last edited by MacMillan of Rathdown; 22nd November 08 at 10:23 AM.
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