[cajunscot]

Originally Posted by puffer

YEP !

?????? was it because of the "crest' or the "TRIANGULAR" form off mounting ( an ABORTION DREAMED UP BY, IMHO, A "DESK JOCKEY" (this is not the term I want to use, but being a family friendly forum ?),

Puffer

If I remember correctly, back in the 1960's, the British Army tried to adopt the brigade system, a la the US Army -- as a result, the various Scottish regiments were "forced" to wear the brigade badge -- in this case the aforesaid "crucified moose" -- instead of their regimental one.

T.

[kiltimabar]

Originally Posted by Ted Crocker

Thanks, Puffer. I don't like the idea of putting holes in fabric for things like this, and I would think the hole would probably need to be stitched to keep it from un raveling.

I have been looking into using a thin wire, like an high E guitar string, that is bent into a "U" shape. The wire should be thin enough to pass through the fabric, I'm thinking of buttons on a jacket, without harm to the fabric...
.

I have used paper clips cut into a U shape (filed to a point on the ends to get through the fabic cleanly). Works well for shank buttons, but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

[Bugbear]

Originally Posted by kiltimabar

I have used paper clips cut into a U shape (filed to a point on the ends to get through the fabic cleanly). Works well for shank buttons, but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

Thanks, kiltimabar. I am working with buttons, so it would be a lot different. That gives me a direction to go in, though.

[puffer]

Originally Posted by kiltimabar

but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

You are correct. As to the "floppiness (sans "backing") I use a Cotter key ( IMHO you need the inflexibility, wire is too flexable for "larger badges) )externally, to "join" the shanks. I then use 1-3 safety pins internally to "stabilize" it.

Puffer

[shagger999uk]

Most British capbadges now use a 'prong' rather than the loops. The loop back type badges tend to be the Scots and Officer versions of capbadges used in the No1 and No 2 dress hats (Officers berets have either a cloth or wire capbadge).

[Bugbear]

Originally Posted by puffer

You are correct. As to the "floppiness (sans "backing") I use a Cotter key ( IMHO you need the inflexibility, wire is too flexable for "larger badges) )externally, to "join" the shanks. I then use 1-3 safety pins internally to "stabilize" it.

Puffer

Interesting. I think I understand now.

[thescot]

Like many of the rest, I am hesitant to poke a bunch of holes in my bonnets, tams, or what have you. I have a couple of badges which are actually poked through the material, but mostly I have used the cockade as a means of mounting. I poke the holes in the cockade or just pin the badge to the outside of the cockade to avoid poking any holes at all.

Puffer gives you the right idea, and I have used almost all of his methods. A stitch of thread passed around the badge into the bonnet will hold it tight to the bonnet so that it appears to be properly mounted.

[triolamj]

Thanks, guys. I realized that I've seen that design before. I have a military slouch hat from Australia that came with an ANZAC sunburst on the upturned part of the brim. There are holes to attach it to the brim but I don't remember anything like cotter pins. I used safety pins to attach it to the pugarree band.

For a balmoral or glengarry, maybe 2 tiny grommets in the rosette would be the best: permanent, reinforced holes that are unlikely to unravel. The cotter pin or split ring would be hidden by the rosette and you'd have the material and lining of the balmoral between your head and the shank. Grommets would also be easier than trying to put in a buttonhole. You could also use the grommet holes for a regular pin clasp.

[Bugbear]

Hmmm, interesting. You're talking about just putting the eyelets in the rosette. I was thinking if you put the metal eyelets in the bonnet, a small piece of fuseable interfacing over the places where you are going to punch them might be a good idea. I'm not sure how the rosette meterial would behave with the grommet and no interfacing. Might hold up fine.