I'm sure somebody can explain it better than I; but I'll try my best.
I'm not a seamstress/tailor by any means. I'm a wood butcher like the original directions were written for.
This is where it is convenient that the inner folds of the pleats haven't been sewn all the way to the waist.
On the first one I did with box pleats, my waist and butt measurements were 4 inches different. I split the difference over 8 pleats mainly in the hip area (leaving the pleats closest to the aprons and the center of the back alone).
Lots of pins. But basically I skootched (is that a word?) the inner fold at the waist in by a 1/4 inch on both sides of the box pleat. The outer edges of the pleats will want to overlap. That's where the pins hold everything in place Of course, that particular kilt was solid black. On subsequent ones with a tartan, a little more care was needed to make sure the pattern stayed in line. After the waist band is added, everything is locked in place.
Hope this helps.
Oh..... BTW...... welcome from the NW corner of the great state of Mississippi where the height of fashion is matching camou.
from an expatriate Scot living in Massachusetts.
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