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  #1  
Old 12-07-2009, 09:40 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Question Cost of Tartan Fabric Only

I was wondering if a few of you professional kilt makers could break down the cost of a kilt for me. I am trying to figure out what the cost of the frabric is by itself. I want to know how much I should expect to pay for good wool or pv fabric. Thanks for the help.

Brice
  #2  
Old 12-07-2009, 10:01 AM
joecool's Avatar  
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 173
First off, I am no kilt maker (but I did buy some fabric so I can try my hand at it when I get some free time). The only material I have bought was some regimental weight Black watch tartan and a regimental weight Leslie tartan (both wool). They were both around 4 meters of double width fabric and I am pretty sure that including shipping they were both somewhere around $100 bucks. That was cheap, and I was lucky. Most of the time fabric, especially wool tartan, can be pretty pricey. I will let the other more knowledgeable members of the forum speak to that. But, moral of the story is, good, cheap tartan fabric is out there, you just have to be patient and look around a bit!
Good Luck!
  #3  
Old 12-07-2009, 10:16 AM
jhockin's Avatar  
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Posts: 200
(also not a professional kiltmaker) but: watch here , for remnants:
http://www.wooltartan.com/
( which is the Fraser & Kirkbright website), I recently bought 8 metrs of double wide, 16 oz. MacNaughton tartan , for 200 $Canadian.
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2009, 07:38 PM
Livingston's Avatar  
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Northglenn, Colorado, USA
Posts: 3,079
Brice, I too am not a professional kilt maker but... The price you pay will depend on several things, the weight (13 oz, 16 oz, 22 oz), the mill and whether or not it is a stock tartan.
  #5  
Old 12-07-2009, 11:10 PM
The Wizard of BC's Avatar
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www.freedomkilts.com
 
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
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Well, if no one else will respond to this........

Now remember, I make all types of Kilts. Even though Tartan Kilts are a large part of my business my main fabrics are solids and camos.

Tartan fabrics are some of the hardest things to give a quote on.
Not only are there different weights and weavers but each has their stock fabric lists and each charge different rates for what most people would think of as the same fabric.

And we here in N. America are at the mercy of the exchange rates.

So I'm only going to give you my retail price for my standard fabrics.

I have no idea what other use for their retail mark-up on fabric but I have a simple calculation of; what the weaver charges me per yard, + the shipping, duty and tax to import the fabric, + my mark-up of 30%.
And I can assure you that some charge a 100% mark-up.


Marton Mills 12oz Polyester/Rayon blend known as P/V retail for approx. $24.00cdn per yard double-width.

13oz Wools from Marton Mills and Lochcarron retail for approx. $68.60cdn per yard double-width.

16oz Wools from Marton Mills and Lochcarron retail for approx. $86.60cdn per yard double-width.

A custom weave in 16oz Wool runs $66.40cdn per yard Single Width.

I am bit unusual in that I only charge a flat rate for my labor to make one of my Tartan Model Kilts and I publish my labor rate. To make a Kilt I then add the cost of whatever fabric the customer asks for. Optional costs are in the number of pockets the customer asks for.

This means that on average;

A 12 oz P/V Kilt will cost approx. $400.00
A 13oz Wool Kilt will cost approx. $580.00
A 16oz Wool Kilt will cost approx. $650.00

Over 45" hips will cost a bit extra for extra fabric.
Rare or non stock fabrics will cost more.

OK, now you can add up the rest.
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2009, 02:57 PM
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Author of "The Art of Kiltmaking"
 
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Location: Deansboro, NY
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Not sure whether your question is one about trying to figure out how a custom-made kilt breaks down in terms of price or whether you are figuring on making a kilt for yourself and want to buy tartan. If the latter, then good kilting tartan for an 8 yard kilt can be had for anywhere from maybe $100 if you luck into some remnants on eBay to $400 or more, if you want to have a custom weave done.

If you're trying to figure out what % of the cost of a custom-made kilt is tartan and what is labor, you're not going to get a consistent answer among kiltmakers. Some mark tartan up, some don't, and some mark it up more than others. Some use less expensive tartan than others. Some charge flat labor rates (Steve and I are in that camp), and others charge a flat fee to make a kilt. No matter how you slice it, your kiltmaker isn't making a lot of money.....
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  #7  
Old 12-08-2009, 04:24 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barb T. View Post
...whether you are figuring on making a kilt for yourself and want to buy tartan. If the latter, then good kilting tartan for an 8 yard kilt can be had for anywhere from maybe $100 if you luck into some remnants on eBay to $400 or more, if you want to have a custom weave done.
Not sure if I want to make a kilt for myself (maybe in the future). If I found a good remnant or something, I was wondering what I should expect to pay for it. The more likely scenario is I find something I really like, buy it, and then have someone make the kilt for me. This also led me to maybe buying some XMTS tartan with some money I have now, and saving the money I will need to pay someone to make it for me.

I am really not sure what I will do yet. I do appreciate you answering my question.

Brice
  #8  
Old 12-08-2009, 05:19 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dorset, on the South coast of England
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One thing to be aware of - though it might not be of any great importance to you - tartans are usually the same thread count in both directions - so that the pattern is a square, or very close to one.

Cheap tartan can have a rectangular shape instead, either intentionally - if the maker can stretch the amount of fabric produced from the same amount of yarn then they get more money for it - or by accident, and the price reflects that.

Anne the Pleater
  #9  
Old 12-08-2009, 05:32 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleater View Post
One thing to be aware of - though it might not be of any great importance to you - tartans are usually the same thread count in both directions - so that the pattern is a square, or very close to one.

Cheap tartan can have a rectangular shape instead, either intentionally - if the maker can stretch the amount of fabric produced from the same amount of yarn then they get more money for it - or by accident, and the price reflects that.

Anne the Pleater
Thank you for the advice. I will probably have to buy some fabric from a reputable vendor (like the ones on here). I am very tempted to by some XTMS from Steve, since I know I can trust him. Other than that, I would be very cautious about buying something on eBay, unless it can be verified that it is good quality.

Thanks again.

Brice
  #10  
Old 12-08-2009, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 2,379
I don't mark up the material and I charge a flat rate. I figure I am making minimum wage. Why do I do it? It's still fun and I consider it a hobby.
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