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  1. #1
    Join Date
    9th June 05
    Posts
    51

    Dealing with the "Fat Tax"

    I am curious how individual kiltmakers deal with larger sizes. How do you charge for them? per yard, per extra pleat....? There is substantially more work in a kilt for larger sizes and I am wondering how you manage to diplomatically charge for this. Your help would be appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    8th February 04
    Location
    3389 Schuylkill Rd, Spring City, PA 19475
    Posts
    4,559
    More material = more money.

    On our Semi Trad and Casual model, we bump up prices in $10 incriments at certain hip measurements... this helps to cover the cost of the fabric. There's not TOO Much more labor in a kilt with 50" hips from 45 " hips, so we basically eat that cost.
    Rocky Roeger
    Owner & Kiltmaker
    www.USAKilts.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    25th September 04
    Location
    Victoria, BC, Canada
    Posts
    3,050
    As with Rocky, we at FK did a little math and found where the fabric and man-hour breaks are and charge accordingly. Our breaks come at the per pleat point above 40" waist.
    We do not charge for "The beer gut cut" as some do because we believe that is a normal part of getting a garment to fit correctly. We use the same angled or sloped waist on all our kilts. For some it is angled a little more than for some others.
    Steve Ashton
    www.Freedomkilts.com
    2nd Laird of Lochaber
    Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
    I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    10th August 04
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,175
    I'm one of the fat guys who pays extra. No diplomacy is needed. It makes sense to me that it takes more material and more work to cover my over-large behind.
    The Right Reverend William the Saturnine of Snotting on Wold
    I've seen things you people wouldn't believe.
    My Photo website: http://billclearlake.shutteryfly.com ||

  5. #5
    M. A. C. Newsome's Avatar
    M. A. C. Newsome is offline Owner - New House Highland

    Contributing Kilt Historian
    Join Date
    26th January 05
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    5,018
    I charge extra to cover the cost of extra cloth I need to buy, but I don't charge any extra for the labor -- although it always takes longer, as there is typically a lot more stitching involved in the larger kilts.

    I use the hip measurement as my guide. I can fit anyone with hips under 46" in a four yard kilt. If their hips are over 46", I'll get an extra yard of cloth, though I don't always need it. Some guys take six yards, but I've yet to meet a man that I couldn't get in a six yard kilt.

    Aye,
    Matt
    Matthew A. C. Newsome, GTS
    Governor, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Director Emeritus, Scottish Tartans Museum
    My own blog & writings on Highland Dress: Albanach.org

  6. #6
    cjbass is offline This member has been inactive for more than 1 year
    Join Date
    28th February 05
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    18

    Uk

    At Utilikilts we charge above a size 39. I'm a 41, and rapidly expanding into 42 territory, so I pay extra for my kilts as well.

    The extra fabric - as Rocky mentioned - is not such a big deal. It really is the extra work that makes the cost go up. A yard of fabric is less than $5, in non-tartan, non-wool fabrics, so the price of the raw materials is not such a burden.

    But sewing pleats IS. Bigger waistband = more pleats. Those take time, and skill, and as you get more and more fabic into the kilt, it gets harder and harder to sew... especially managing the big 'ol pile of fabric hanging off the left side of the sewing machine!

    So ya get the Fat Bastard penalty... aka, higher prices for larger waistlines.

    Make sense?
    - CJ

  7. #7
    Join Date
    27th September 04
    Location
    Amelia County, Virginia, USA
    Posts
    2,538
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbass
    At Utilikilts we charge above a size 39. I'm a 41, and rapidly expanding into 42 territory, so I pay extra for my kilts as well.

    The extra fabric - as Rocky mentioned - is not such a big deal. It really is the extra work that makes the cost go up. A yard of fabric is less than $5, in non-tartan, non-wool fabrics, so the price of the raw materials is not such a burden.

    But sewing pleats IS. Bigger waistband = more pleats. Those take time, and skill, and as you get more and more fabic into the kilt, it gets harder and harder to sew... especially managing the big 'ol pile of fabric hanging off the left side of the sewing machine!

    So ya get the Fat Bastard penalty... aka, higher prices for larger waistlines.

    Make sense?
    - CJ
    I call it the "beer tax"
    "A day spent in the fields and woods, or on the water should not count as a day off our allotted number upon this earth."
    Jerry, Kilted Old Fart.
    jaf_deg6@yahoo.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    5th October 05
    Location
    Olympia WA
    Posts
    54

    As the name says

    Heya folks


    I myself am past gorilla size and am way into sumoville. When it comes pricing we have a set price point and when it goes into the "grand" sizing (48+), all we add in are the extra costs of making it bigger material labor etc. Since most of my stuff is custom, I break it down for each customer individually.

    My nod to my fellow knights of the living girth.

    Josh

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