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  1. #1
    Join Date
    8th October 05
    Location
    OHIO
    Posts
    106

    face of fabric ??

    Howdy all

    I was wanting to know how one can tell the face of a fabric from the inside.

    The reason I ask is I just got a kilt last weak (IRSH DIASPORA)and the stips are to look like the Iish flag but they are backwards. So I called my kilt maker
    and told them about it. I was told that I was wrong and the weaver made it this way. Then I asked them to remake my kilt inside out so it looked like the flag the way I wanted it. That was when they said something about the weave and how it would not look right becouse of the way the threads laid.

    So can anybody tell me if that is true or if it is hog wash.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    30th November 04
    Location
    Deansboro, NY
    Posts
    2,183
    When you're wearing your kilt and you look down at your toes, the twill line of the fabric should run diagonally from right at the top to left at the kilt bottom.

    Barb

  3. #3
    Join Date
    8th October 05
    Location
    OHIO
    Posts
    106
    thanks Bard

  4. #4
    Join Date
    13th March 05
    Location
    Orange County, CA., U.S.A.
    Posts
    1,558
    Quote Originally Posted by filman
    thanks Bard
    She's a kilt expert and a bard? Wow, cool!
    Jeff
    Free people are not equal, and equal people are not free.
    An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it.
    An armed society is a polite society.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    28th August 05
    Location
    Chatsworth Georgia, USA
    Posts
    3,833
    Quote Originally Posted by Iolaus
    She's a kilt expert and a bard? Wow, cool!
    Shes also a Piper,multi-talented isn't she?
    Armageddon was yesterday. Today we have real problem.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    29th April 04
    Location
    Denver, Colorado USA
    Posts
    8,911
    Don't forget geologist! And we can all call her our friend.

    That really is nice to know Barb, as I never noticed it before.
    Glen

    A Life Lived in Fear, Is a Life Half Lived.

    Kilted With Pride!!!

  7. #7
    chasem's Avatar
    chasem is offline This member has been inactive for more than 1 year
    Join Date
    30th March 05
    Location
    Near Santa Fe, New Mexico
    Posts
    1,382
    Yeah, I hadn't noticed prior to going through Barb's book. I looked at my two SWK's after I read that, and was annoyed to find that my HW is done wrong side out

  8. #8
    M. A. C. Newsome's Avatar
    M. A. C. Newsome is offline Owner - New House Highland

    Contributing Kilt Historian
    Join Date
    26th January 05
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    5,018
    Another important matter is the when the fabric is woven, one side may have some little nips and flaws in it -- the other side will be smooth and perfect. This is the "face" and it's important that this be on the outside of the kilt. Usually when you get cloth from the weaver, the fact is marked with a label, so you know.

    Aye,
    Matt
    Matthew A. C. Newsome, GTS
    Governor, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Director Emeritus, Scottish Tartans Museum
    My own blog & writings on Highland Dress: Albanach.org

  9. #9
    Join Date
    3rd January 06
    Location
    Dorset, on the South coast of England
    Posts
    2,830
    I did not know that the direction of the twill was significant - I am just remaking my plaid pattern 'pleated to the stripe' kilt I have shrunk out of and rushed to find it and check - great - I've got it the right way out. I'm half way through the pleats, all sewn down.

    Having lost 20lb a complete remake seemed the best option as it will mean closer pleats and a better look to the back of the kilt. I am building in some adjustment by skimping the under apron pleat as incentive to continue with the weight loss. I'll only finish of the inside and the waistband once I can make the deeper pleats. I am wearing a belt rather than using buckles on all my kilts, and experimenting with belt loops in various places - two at the back and one on the end of the upper apron being the minimum for safety!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    5th January 06
    Location
    Manteca, California
    Posts
    1,024

    Twill direction?

    A while back I bought a kilt for cheap on eBay, wondering at the time what might be wrong with it. When it arrived, I discovered that the underapron strap had been pulled so hard that it had ripped out of the buckle. (Musta been one big dude!) No problem to fix that. Other than that, it was a well-made kilt from a commercial clothing house, using a very fine worsted wool tartan. I've had lots of compliments on the kilt - and not a single comment about the twill direction!

    It took another month or so for me to check the twill direction. Sure enough, from the selvedge, the diagonals ran from lower left to upper right - backwards. The commercial enterprise had made it inside out. Nonetheless, I wear it as an everyday kilt, and do not hesitate to dress it up, either.

    Last Thankgiving I visited the "______ Scottish Imports Shop" in "_(city)_." I happened to scan their racks of kilts for hire, and suddenly became aware that approximately 50% of their stock (Stewarts, Gunn, Gordon, etc.) was made up using the "wrong" side of the fabric. Not wishing to make a pest of myself, I did NOT mention it to the proprietor.

    Modern tartans are usually so well-made that the two side are almost indistinguishable but for the twill direction. My bet is that very few people, except those on this board, would notice or care that the "wrong" side of the fabric was used.

    Whatever you make and however you make it, wear it with pride, having the satisfaction that you did it yourself. Each trial produces fewer errors. Sew on!

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