[Dutch piper]

Hello everybody,

I've been nosing around on this forum for quite some time now. I decided to register and post my questions.

I bought Barb's book a few month's ago, and have been reading it several times. Finally, I got my tartan (black watch) and will start making my first kilt.

First of all, (I believe every first-time kiltmaker asks this question), what do you think about these splits:

Measurments:
waist: 41
hips: 44
length: 25,5 (realy, I have a gordon-kilt from the pipe-band which has a total finished length of 28", so I will make my own kilt 0,5" shorter)

Split:
waist: 20,5 apron / 20,5 pleats
hips: 21,5 apron / 22,5 pleats


Tómmes

[slohairt]

Hi Dutch Piper,

I'd probably go with Waist 21/20 and Hips 22/22

Also keep in mind, that your Gordon kilt may have a 4 inch rise instead of a 2 inch one.

[Barb T.]

I agree with the splits suggested by slohairt for the measurements that you've given.

You might want to consider adding 1/2" tp both the waist and hip measurements before you do the splits, though, so that you have room to change size. You'd put the buckles and straps on at the actual measurements but make the kilt 1/2" too big. That would make the splits

waist: 21 1/2 (apron), 20 (pleats) (or 21 1/4 and 20 1/4)

hips: 22 14 (apron); 22 14 (pleats)

I'm really concerned about the length. How tall are you, where does the bottom of your Gordon kilt fall on your knee, and how many inches is it from the top buckle on the Gordon kilt to the top edge of the kilt?

[Dutch piper]

First of all, thanks for the suggestions.

My Gordon kilt is 28" total length. 2" from the center of the top strap to the top of the kilt.
When I wear my kilt, the bottom is just above my knee, the kiltstraps are on my waistline (bellybutton).

When I ordered my kilt (in Scotland) they also didn't believe that I measure 26 inch from waist to knee but it's true. I suppose I just have long legs.

greetings from the Netherlands

Tómmes

[Dutch piper]

I just finished marking the front apron on my first piece of tartan.
[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Tòmmes & Greetchen\Bureaublad\IMG_0072.JPG[/IMG]
according to barb's book I shouldn't use a flare less then 1 1/5".
When I look at my Gordon-kilt, it has a flare of 3/4".
[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Tòmmes & Greetchen\Bureaublad\IMG_0082.JPG[/IMG]

What do you think is wise to do? Stick with Barb? It looks so wide.

[Dutch piper]

Something went wrong with the images

[Dutch piper]

I'll try a second time

[Dutch piper]

I just finished marking the front apron on my first piece of tartan.

according to barb's book I shouldn't use a flare less then 1 1/5".
When I look at my Gordon-kilt, it has a flare of 3/4".


What do you think is wise to do? Stick with Barb? It looks so wide.

[Barb T.]

The amount of flare depends on the waist-hip differential. If there's a zero difference, there's no flare. If there's a lot of difference, you put in more flare. You don't have much of a waist-hip differential, so 1 1/2" is probably too much. Also, when you draw your chalk line, make a nice smooth curve between the waist and hip chalk marks, not an S curve.

[The Wizard of BC]

To give you a better idea of what Barb is saying about the gentle curve here is a photo of the apron taper on a military Kilt.



Determine the difference at the Waist to the Hip according to The Book.
Then continue the gentle curve all the way down to the Hem.
At the hem you should be almost back to perpendicular.

In your photo you have a straight line from the Hip to the Hem. This will result in an extra large amount of Taper. It will also force you to fold up the Apron Tips a lot more than you would if your taper forms more of a perpendicular angle at the Hem.