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01-20-2009, 08:19 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Posts: 129
| | | Kiltmaking By the Book... Newbies,... go buy the book.
Got Barbs book in front of me and I'm running the numbers.
Waist: 44"
Hips: 48"
Length: 24"
Per the narrative instructions in barbs book, I came up with the following split.
Waist: ( Apron = 23") ( Pleats = 21" )
Hips: ( Apron = 23") ( Pleats = 25" )
I've got a beer gut, and a bubble butt. 
Does this split sound O.K. ?
Im getting antsy to start. 
__________________
Irish of the Clan Gaffney from the County Cork.
"You can't kiss an Irish girl unexpectedly. You can only kiss her sooner than she thought you would."
- Irish Saying
Last edited by Bart_In_A_Kilt; 01-23-2009 at 01:43 PM.
Reason: scope of thread has grown into a project log, begining to end.
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01-20-2009, 08:33 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: State College, PA
Posts: 2,379
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart_In_A_Kilt  Got Barbs book in front of me and I'm running the numbers.
Waist: 44"
Hips: 48"
Length: 24"
Per the narrative instructions in barbs book, I came up with the following split.
Waist: ( Apron = 23") ( Pleats = 21" )
Hips: ( Apron = 23") ( Pleats = 25" )
I've got a beer gut, and a bubble butt.
Does this split sound O.K. ?
Im getting antsy to start. | Sounds ok in the waist.
I would use Hips: (Apron = 24") (Pleats = 24")
Having more in the apron will help the pleats lay better for your dimensions.
Good luck,
__________________
Wallace Catanach, Kiltmaker
and Professor
A day without killting is like a day without sunshine. |
01-21-2009, 10:11 PM
| | | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Posts: 129
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Ok...Ive got Stewart Black fabric laying all over the kitchen table ( sweet !!! )
The full sett = 4 3/4", so its a small Sett pattern?
I plan on pleating to the stripe.
With the yardage I have, I can get 40 pleats, with a pleat size somewhere between 1/2" and 5/8", but pleat depth of only 2". ( Is a 2" pleat depth too shallow? )
If I double up the setts per pleat, I get 20 pleats, with a pleat size of 1 1/2" and pleat depth of 8". ( That seems excessive ).
Any thoughts?
__________________
Irish of the Clan Gaffney from the County Cork.
"You can't kiss an Irish girl unexpectedly. You can only kiss her sooner than she thought you would."
- Irish Saying |
01-22-2009, 11:40 AM
| | | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Posts: 129
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I created a quick spreadsheet to help me calculate pleating to the stripe per Barbs "The Art of Kiltmaking" book. I have all my measurements taken and the tartan is all chalked up and readt to proceed to sewing. BUT I wanted to run the numbers one more time. so I plugged them into a spread sheet that would allow me to experiment quicker and easier. 
With the amount of fabric I started out with, just short of 8 yards, I have available to me to create a Kilt with as many as 41 Pleats ( to the stripe ) . However, after running the numbers, It looks as if the results are more favorable if I back that down to 32 Pleats.
That gives me among other things, more standard dimensions in each pleat ( read easier to replicate ) and a savings in linear yardage.
Am I wacked, or does this look like it makes sense?
__________________
Irish of the Clan Gaffney from the County Cork.
"You can't kiss an Irish girl unexpectedly. You can only kiss her sooner than she thought you would."
- Irish Saying
Last edited by Bart_In_A_Kilt; 01-22-2009 at 11:42 AM.
Reason: forgot to add picture
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01-22-2009, 03:35 PM
| | | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: State College, PA
Posts: 2,379
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I would try to use a 3/4" reveal. I have done smaller reveals but 3/4" reveal looks good. Smaller is ok, but you don't have to use all the fabric. Now if you have some left over, what will you do with it?
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Wallace Catanach, Kiltmaker
and Professor
A day without killting is like a day without sunshine. |
01-22-2009, 04:33 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
Posts: 2,724
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart_In_A_Kilt I created a quick spreadsheet to help me calculate pleating to the stripe per Barbs "The Art of Kiltmaking" book. I have all my measurements taken and the tartan is all chalked up and readt to proceed to sewing. | I'm thrilled to see that you didn't give up after reading The Book. You made a spreadsheet! With embedded formulae, I bet.
Keep it up!
Regards,
Rex.
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At any moment you must be prepared to give up who you are today for who you could become tomorrow. |
01-22-2009, 06:08 PM
| | | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Posts: 129
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by ChattanCat I would try to use a 3/4" reveal. I have done smaller reveals but 3/4" reveal looks good. Smaller is ok, but you don't have to use all the fabric. Now if you have some left over, what will you do with it? | Yes, but what of the 2" pleat depth ? is that too shallow?
__________________
Irish of the Clan Gaffney from the County Cork.
"You can't kiss an Irish girl unexpectedly. You can only kiss her sooner than she thought you would."
- Irish Saying |
01-22-2009, 09:00 PM
| | | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: State College, PA
Posts: 2,379
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart_In_A_Kilt Yes, but what of the 2" pleat depth ? is that too shallow? | I'd go for it.
__________________
Wallace Catanach, Kiltmaker
and Professor
A day without killting is like a day without sunshine. |
01-23-2009, 07:18 AM
|  | | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: dc
Posts: 1,287
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart_In_A_Kilt Yes, but what of the 2" pleat depth ? is that too shallow? |
2" pleat depth is ok. 3/4" to ~1" pleat size ok.
My thoughts: I find that it's easier to pleat tartans than solid self-color fabric because the lines are already there in the fabric! (With solids you have to draw them straight and square.)
This is my workflow for pleating to stripe: I first look at the sett and the lines around the prominent stripe that I plan to pleat to and then from there decide on the edges of the pleat to put the creases into. Once you've decided on the the pleat appearance and therefore its size, then use that pleat size and the pleat section @ hips to calculate how many pleats will fit your pleat section @ hips (in your case 24"), give or take. A similar tartan for me (stewart gray), I ended up having about 30-31 pleats. For my first kilt (handsewn) I had 21-pleats of 1" per pleat.
I hope I'm making sense.  Good luck! Looking forward to seeing your creation.
Last edited by meinfs; 01-23-2009 at 08:58 AM.
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01-23-2009, 08:42 AM
|  | Author of "The Art of Kiltmaking" | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deansboro, NY
Posts: 2,136
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I agree with Wally about the hips split. I also agree that you don't want lots of little itty bitty pleats. Most of the kilts I made have 23-29 pleats, which gives a nice size at the hips.
Your tartan has a pretty small sett. I'd seriously consider doubling the sett and having 20-ish pleats. Not sure where you got the 8" pleat depth from this. The pleat depth, if you doubled your set, would be just about one sett deep (or about 4"). That's perfectly fine.
Since this is your first kilt, having fewer, wider pleats will be easier (and quicker) to make. That's a plus as well.
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