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  1. #1
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    Seam on pleat of Kilt

    Hi all, I have just noticed that there is a vertical seam joining the two pieces of material together on my Kilt, it is well hidden as its under one of the pleats, I'm probably not explaining myself very well, anyway is this seam normal? Thank you in advance for any replies. Kit

  2. #2
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    28th March 06
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    Tartan fabric can be woven (or cut) single width length or double width "half-length". For the latter, if a kilt will need 8 yards of fabric, the cloth comes as 4 yard "double-width". The fabric is then cut and joined to make an 8 yard single-width piece. The seam is hidden inside a pleat. This is normal.

  3. The Following User Says 'Aye' to KiltedKnome For This Useful Post:


  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by KiltedKnome View Post
    Tartan fabric can be woven (or cut) single width length or double width "half-length". For the latter, if a kilt will need 8 yards of fabric, the cloth comes as 4 yard "double-width". The fabric is then cut and joined to make an 8 yard single-width piece. The seam is hidden inside a pleat. This is normal.
    Bobbi, I'm just curious: Do both original edges in a double width have a selvedge? (My guess.) If they do and you turn half around, will the sett always match well? If they don't, then what happens with half of the length without a selvedge?
    Rev'd Father Bill White: Retired Parish Priest & Elementary Headmaster, lover of God, dogs, most people, joy, humour & clarity. Legion Padre, theologian, teacher, philosopher, linguist, traditionalist, bon-vivant, encourager of hearts & souls & a firm believer in dignity, decency, & duty. A proud Canadian Sinclair.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by KiltedKnome View Post
    Tartan fabric can be woven (or cut) single width length or double width "half-length". For the latter, if a kilt will need 8 yards of fabric, the cloth comes as 4 yard "double-width". The fabric is then cut and joined to make an 8 yard single-width piece. The seam is hidden inside a pleat. This is normal.
    Thank you Kiltedknome, I thought it was a fault on the part of the maker, so thank you very much for clearing that up. Kit

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Father Bill View Post
    Bobbi, I'm just curious: Do both original edges in a double width have a selvedge? (My guess.) If they do and you turn half around, will the sett always match well? If they don't, then what happens with half of the length without a selvedge?
    In tartan woven for kilts, both selvedges should be good.

    If the tartan is symmetrical, the kiltmaker should be able to turn the fabric around and join (the seam discussed above). In a perfect world, the sett is the same on both halves of the symmetric tartan so the cloth will look like an 8 yard piece of single width at that point. However, there are always those cases where, for some reason, the two halves do not match perfectly (which causes great angst and muttering on the part of the kiltmaker, or in The Wizard's case, four-letter words worthy of a Marine).

    In asymmetric tartans (e.g., Maple Leaf) you cannot flip the halves. So, for asymmetric tartans the kiltmaker needs to request a pre-cut 8 yard long single width piece (or a piece the needed length to accommodate the wearer's hips, etc.).

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Father Bill View Post
    Bobbi, I'm just curious: Do both original edges in a double width have a selvedge? (My guess.) If they do and you turn half around, will the sett always match well? If they don't, then what happens with half of the length without a selvedge?
    Hi Bill, the kilting selvedge depends on the loom upon which it is woven, so yes, the loom uses the same action at both ends. And so long as the tartan is symmetrical, then it's just a matter of rotating one of the halves. Most kilts are made from double width fabric, that is cut in two and rotated in this manner.

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