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Professional Kiltmakers Hints and Tips Ask the different kiltmakers questions about kilts and kiltmaking...

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  #1  
Old 05-07-2010, 10:46 PM
Whidbey78's Avatar  
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hay Springs, NE
Posts: 1,221
Question Sewing machine advice

I guess this is an SOS to those with more(and more recent) experience with sewing machines.

I'm getting into the market for a sewing machine. This is for several reasons. First, and most practical, is that it is much more economical to repair work clothes than buy new. Second, I want to try my hand at a few contemporary kilts. Third, as a military man it would be more economical to do my own uniform work. Hey, I have cut my own hair(whats left of it) for years!

My question is what do the pro's and semi-pro's in the rabble recommend? This needs to be an inexpensive machine that can do somewhat delicate work (not silk and lace but lighter cottons and synthetics--light dress shirt weight material) to medium-heavy nylon cloth and web gear. It needs to be able to do, at a minimum, straight stitches, zigzag, buttonholes, and blind hems. In a nutshell, it needs to be a do-it-all machine.

Being "Newbie Friendly" is good, but dependable and minimal maintenance is more important. I've used sewing machines before, but high school Home Ec was a LONG time ago, and most of what I remember is following lines...not setup, tuning and finished work. Computerized machines were unheard of then, but I'm not scared of them at all. Kinda like the idea.

Any help is appriciated. Thanks all.
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  #2  
Old 05-08-2010, 07:58 AM
Hothir Ethelnor's Avatar  
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 505
My family has used Bernina 930's for years. It's an older machine and a bit harder to find but it's all metal parts and will last forever sewing anything from silk to leather.
  #3  
Old 05-08-2010, 08:24 AM
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Posts: 55
I've only ever used Husqvarnas, which I'd like to recommend, but I guess at least the "old faithful" easy-to-use & orange-colored "2000" model isn't easy to come by.

My wife studies to be a handicrafts teacher, and at the university they have Berninas.
  #4  
Old 05-08-2010, 08:33 AM
Pleater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dorset, on the South coast of England
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The Janome/Novum/New Home machines have always had good reports here in the UK.

I've had one for about 30 years, and it has done all that was asked of it.

Here in the UK dealers often have a few second hand sewing machines which are traded in for new machines. Often they are the top end of the mechanical ranges, the cheaper ones are dumped.

I think the psychology is that the cheaper second hand ones would be bought by younger people who can be directed to the cheaper new ones instead, but experienced sewers often don't want to change from what they know and will pay a bit more for the older machine as they recognise quality.

My own Janome machine was expensive when I bought it, but after all this time it doesn't owe me anything as it has sewn everything I have asked it to. I got an overlocker (serger) from the same source.

If you can find a dealer take along some samples of the fabrics you want to sew and try them out yourself to see just how easy it is to use the machines they have.

Simple things like being able to change between straight sewing and a particular stitch and back again without going through a menu or turning a dial twelve (or whatever) times is something to look out for. It might seem a little thing but when it has to be done every time it can get wearing.

Anne the Pleater
  #5  
Old 05-08-2010, 08:41 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 851
Quote:
The Janome/Novum/New Home machines have always had good reports here in the UK.
Pleater takes the words from my mouth. While I myself sew on a fancy-dancy computerized Pfaff (an awesome solid machine I wouldn't hesitate to recommend), it's neither basic, nor inexpensive.

The Janome company has excellent reputation and makes very good machines. And, if you're in North America, you get an extra bonus - the Sears Kenmore line machines are Janomes. $200 to $400 should find you an excellent machine that is backed by Sears guarantee and return policy. What you won't find at Sears however, is sewing help or lessons.

Sewing machines opinions are as subjective as car opinions. Arm yourself with a number of fabric swatches and go test drive.
  #6  
Old 05-08-2010, 10:47 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 118
I would say stay away from “chain” fabric stores for you purchase. Find a local independent sewing machine repair shop. They will probably deal in new and used machines. Talk to the dealer and explain your needs. Most small shop owners know the products they are selling, will let you “test drive” machines and will have the answers to your questions. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Try to find a good used machine and don't let them sell you a machine that has 230 different stitches that you won't use.
Sewing machines are a lot like cars; you have to find one that you like and are comfortable with.
Again, I repeat, Stay away from chain stores (i e JoAnn, Hancock). The sales persons (generally) are just not as knowledgeable as an independent shop owner.

I have an old Singer (30 years old, at least) that I love sewing on. It has a straight stitch and a zigzag; that's it. It sews through anything. I also have a new Baby lock that has hundreds of stitches. It's also great.
  #7  
Old 05-08-2010, 02:56 PM
Whidbey78's Avatar  
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hay Springs, NE
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Thanks for the recommendations. I've heard that newer Singers are basically junk. I just inherited a Janome 751--Vogue Stitch label--and it was never taken care of. It's basically a paperweight.

Unfortunately, I live in BFE so even the chain stores would be a blessing. Whatever I get will be an online purchase or I'll have to drive about 150 miles. The closest thing to me is Walmart...which is no help.
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  #8  
Old 05-09-2010, 06:41 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 2,379
If you want straight sewing, you need to get a light weight singer sewing machine. The machines that do zig-sag, don't make a perfectly straight seams. I use a Singer 99K sewing machine for all my straight seams.

Can't go wrong with a Bernina metal geared machine. They are a little pricey though.
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2010, 10:31 AM
Pleater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dorset, on the South coast of England
Posts: 2,728
Ah well - sewing machines do need to have some maintenance, otherwise they simply wear out, cleaning and greasing/oiling can add year of useful life to any bit of kit.

If you do get a light weight machine make sure it can be clamped down and ALWAYS clamp it down - there was, years ago now, a superb bit of live TV where someone was showing how the machine on offer could sew curtains, then the material slid off the table and took the machine with it - BANG!! SCREAM!! The screen went dark...

I have never noticed any deviation from the straight when sewing with my machine, but it isn't just that the width control is put to zero to do a straight stitch, the zigzag can be set to a particular width and left set, but the selector is turned to straight st and that is what it does, then back to zigzag and it is as it was before, so everything matches up.

Anne the Pleater
  #10  
Old 05-09-2010, 12:56 PM
The Wizard of BC's Avatar
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www.freedomkilts.com
 
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
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Whidbey78,

I too come from a military background and also the sailboat industry. These two things effected my choice when selecting sewing machines for my shop.

We use Pfaff 138/6 Industrial Machines.



These machines are capable of producing straight and zigzag stitches in about any fabric or any thickness of fabric you would ever encounter in kilt making or everyday household repair.

These machines have been around since the early 1960's and many 40 year old machines are still in service today.

These machine could be found around almost every Military base in the world. They were used in tent and Camouflage repair shops. Sail and Parachute Lofts, Vehicle top/awning and upholstery shops, Uniform repair shops, and about 100 different areas.
Many of these machine can still be found for sale at Govt. and Military auctions.

The great thing about these machines is that everything is repairable and adjustable. The motors are separate from the head of the machine so you can swap them out to the type of electricity available and can even be adapted to DC motors and used with solar panels.

The adjustablility of these machines is where they come into their own over machines designed for home use. On mine, the pressure foot can be raised to 3/4" allowing the multiple layers of fabric of a Contemporary Kilt to fit under and be sewn.

If anything breaks or wears out on these machines the parts are still readily available.

The major down side to these industrial machines are the initial cost. When new these machines cost about $2000.00. Today, used machines still bring $1000.00 retail price tags.

If I were to advise someone thinking of an all-around dependable machine I would strongly suggest they keep an eye out for one of the used Industrial machines.

The knee lift of an industrial machine is something I could no longer do without. By lifting the pressure foot with a lever operated by your knee it frees both hands to move, position and manipulate the large bulk of fabric of sails, awnings and even Kilts.
Many home style machines come with a knee lift by very few home sewers seem to use them. I now cannot sew without one.
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I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
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