Double the Outer Apron?

[Colonel MacNeal]

Is it advisable to double the exterior apron (two ply) when using light weight material? So the light weight tartan doesn't go limp?

The interior apron could be lined with cheaper material because it will not show?

[Tartan Hiker]

It can be done. However, if you try to sew the two plies together you'll quickly find out why it's rarely attempted.

You can't just fold it over under itself if the apron edge is tapered, so you'll have to cut a separate piece and stitch it along the top edge (under the waistband) for sure, then probably along the outer edge as well. If you try to stitch it all the way 'round you'll never get it to lie flat...there will always be pulls and puckers.
So now you've got two pieces of light fabric where before you had only one. Each is just as likely to blow up as the single piece was before you went to all that trouble.
Some time ago someone here experimented with sticking two pieces together with a sheet of iron-activated interfacing. If I remember correctly that experiment was a pretty dismal failure.

I think a much better solution is to create a stiff hem along the outer edge of the over apron. Cut the fabric 5 or six inches longer than you normally would and make a bodacious rolled hem. It will be more massive, but more importantly, it will be stiffer than the native fabric and will serve to keep the blow ups under control better than the two-ply scheme.

[Smayniac]

I lined the apron of one of my Xkilts with fusible interfacing(look away now traditionalists), I now need to find a kilt pin to keep the different color "lining" from showing. It did do what I wanted though.
Bob

[blackbeard]

My two cents:

I am not a kilter yet (working on my first), but I was born with a sewing machine in my lap and I have to give a vote for the wide hem method of adding weight to the apron..much simpler.

If you do chose to go the interfacing rout, be very careful. The chances of getting bubbles and puckers are huge. And if you still choose to go with interfacing, make sure that you read the instructions that come with the interfacing. Some cannot be washed, some cannot be dry cleaned. I would also do a test sample to make sure that the fused fabrics give you the desired results. Once the fabrics are fused; the process cannot be undone.

Best of luck
Rick

[Bugbear]

* Never mind about the floating hair canvas; it's too complicated to explain. *

[Eujeankilt]

On the kilted skirt I made my wife, I used some of the extra kilt material to make a half liner for the inner and outer aprons, mostly because I use snaps to keep it closed. This gave me at least two layers to attach the snaps to. I attached it via the side hems and it hangs from the waistband to about the middle of the kilt.

Dale

[Pleater]

I have only used doubled material in order to create costumes which look as though they are made with heavy period correct material, but as long as the two layers are aligned along the grain they seem to behave fairly well.

To make a thicker apron - which might be required in order to give the material enough body I'd have thought that it would only be necessary to fold the extra material behind the apron and sew the lower edges together, then shape the right edge by folding in the material as for shaping the left edge, or cut it if you want a fringe, then sew it a little way from the edge, adding another layer if you want multiple edges for the fringe.

Remember that the top edge of that (or any) infolding will not lie level with the top of the waist, but dip down, or if you try to pull it level the side of the apron will not be shaped but try to form a straight edge.

Anne the Pleater