Now that I've sewn the trad kilt pleats...how do I correctly eliminate the bulk?

[a Grant]

I have just finished sewing two modern kilts -- easy.. Now I have just sewn the
multitude of pleats for the third kilt, a traditional 9 yd. kilt and tried it on my victim. I need to know what to do with ALL that pleated fabric above the hip in the inside. It is far too bulky to be left there and adds inches to the waist measurement. I have read that the excess fabric gets cut off but I hesitate to do that because the *hang* of the pleat likely relies on the fabric at the top. I'd like some reliable information from the professional kilt makers here......HELP!!!
Many many thanks. (and my victim thanks you too!)

[The Wizard of BC]

aGrant,

The pleats inside the Kilt do indeed get cut away, but a huge caution before you do so.

The secret to a well constructed Traditional Kilt is not the stitching of the Pleats on the outside. It is the stabilizers and interfacings inside the Kilt.

If you rely on the stitching to resist the stress of wearing the Kilt all your hard work will come undone in short order.

When you cut away the pleats to thin the Fell of the Kilt you weaken it significantly so a piece of fabric called a "Stabilizer" is sewn into the inside from one buckle tab over to the other. This takes the stress across the back of the Kilt allowing the pleats to float over your body without stressing the stitching.

Then an interfacing (hair canvas) is sewn across the entire inside of the Kilt from one strap all the way to the other strap. This takes the stress off the rest of the Kilt and the aprons.

To support the Pleats and insure they remain straight, parallel, and continue to hang and swish properly you add a line of stitching called "The Steeking" just below the Fell line. These stitches are hidden and not visible from the outside when the Kilt is worn.

To hide all these internal structural elements a light liner is then sewn on.

To fully understand how these hidden strengtheners are sewn in may I suggest you find a copy of Barb T.'s book "The Art of Kiltmaking". It is available in many libraries or direct from Barb at;

www.celticdragonpress.com

[Tartan Hiker]

Buy the BOOK!!!

[chasem]

I second the advice of Tartan Hiker. That book will give excellent insight on exactly how to do the processes the Wizard described. It's a great investment.

[a Grant]

I just looked up *the Book* on amazon.co.uk and they want £139.99 for it. HELP!!!!!!!

[Pleater]

Amazon!!

No No No, go straight to the source - Barb T is on this forum and will sell you one direct - see the Wizard's post earlier in the thread for the triple W address.

Anne the Pleater

[Bugbear]

Some day... I may go ahead and remove all that stuff above the fell after steeking etc my Stillwater wool kilt... But I would not try without Barb's book.

I'm thinking about getting it just to understand the canvas for the aprons, but I would never be able to pleat a tartan kilt on my own.

[chasem]

Yeah, skip amazon and go with www.celticdragonpress.com

[a Grant]

All your advice is most valuable. I ordered it direct from the author's web site. BTW pleating isn't complicated, to get the pleats exactly even just count the threads in the colour that you want and the pleats come out exactly the same every time. It's also good challenge for one's brain and eyes!!
Many many thanks.

[a Grant]

I am currently in the UK and would like advice on what the stabilizer and interfacing are called here. I know there are different terms for those things in each country.... a different language than Canadian English.....
Again, many thanks in advance.