Question Regarding Jacket Hem

**IRISH** · 27th January 09, 05:49 PM

when converting a standard jacket to kilt size, how far down from the waist of the kilt should the bottom hem of the jacket be? perhaps this is not the primary consideration when measuring for jacket tailoring, and if not, what is the proper means of determining the measurement of the jacket's tailored length? thanks in advance of any input.

**Bugbear** · 27th January 09, 06:01 PM

If it is an Argyle type cut, then it should be no longer than the fell of the kilt, and probably a little higher than that. You might want to put the jacket on while wearing your kilt and have someone mark the jacket where the bottom of the fell is for a reference line.

If there is a waistcoat, it will most likely need to be hemmed, as well, to keep it from causing problems with the sporran.

Don't forget or overlook that there are strips of folded, thin interfacing in the hems of many jackets. These should be saved and put back in the new hems during the conversion.

Hope that helps.

**IRISH** · 28th January 09, 05:58 AM

yes, ted. thank you. so i'm inferring that the jacket hem should maybe land halfway down the fell and definitely not covering any pleats.

**The Wizard of BC** · 28th January 09, 09:04 AM

Irish, Not half-way down the Fell but almost all the way to the bottom of the Fell.

I measure Jackets to between 1/2" & 1" above the bottom of the Fell.

As you are measuring also take a look at the sleeve length. The Hem of the Jacket should be almost the same or 1"-2" above the bottom of the sleeve.

These numbers are just rough estimates to give you the general idea.
The only way to know for sure is to have the Jacket and Kilt on and make a chalk mark on the Jacket at the bottom of the Fell of the Kilt.
(someone else will have to do this for you of course.)

**IRISH** · 28th January 09, 09:13 AM

thanks, steve
ted's input was good, but you've crossed the T for me.
regards.

**Bugbear** · 28th January 09, 09:41 AM

I think I put mine about an inch above the fell too. The sporran cutaway of the jacket will be curved and taper back to that length somewhere before the first side seam, though, so it will be higher than the back side. You really have to do this with the kilt, belt and sporran on. It is much easier to have someone else mark the jacket. The chalk lines wouldn't help me, so I had to come up with a whole different and complicated way of finding the hem line.

Good luck.

**IRISH** · 28th January 09, 12:17 PM

thank you, ted. valuable input.

**Bugbear** · 28th January 09, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by IRISH

thank you, ted. valuable input.

No problem. I will go ahead and post a link to my thread, "Corduroy Jacket Conversion Notes and Links."

I don't know how much it will help you because I don't have step by step pictures. However, there are links to quite a few threads that do have the step by step pictures.

Hope your jacket comes out really well. Good luck.

**Alan H** · 29th January 09, 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC

Irish, Not half-way down the Fell but almost all the way to the bottom of the Fell.

I measure Jackets to between 1/2" & 1" above the bottom of the Fell.

As I cut my first jacket way too short, so this is *extremely* helpful, and will get used in the next conversion...

...which is waiting in the closet right now, to be undertaken after the

1. Gray Stewart kilt
2. EarthKilt prototype
3. Hall tartan box-pleat
3. MacNaughton Ancient tank

...all get sewn up.