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05-12-2007, 10:21 AM
|  | | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,616
| | | sew fell up or down
I just got one of the MacKenzie economies from Stillwater and like a dummy took the basting out (after assuring a good fit at the waist) and then realized (remembered) that SWK economies don't have the fell sewn. So I figger that I'll sew it myself just for the slightly better fit that it affords...
...so...if I pin the pleats should i sew down form the waist band or up from the point at which the fell begins? Also, if I try to do this by machine will that make any difference as to whether up or down...I've seen posts about a machine having a certain amount of slippage but I figger that the machine stitches will probably be tightr than what I can do by hand.
Thanks...
Best
AA
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05-12-2007, 11:11 AM
|  | | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Roswell, Georgia USA
Posts: 3,801
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I believe you sew up, to ensure the bottom starts at the same place in the sett all along it. Becasue wool stretches, you could differentially pull it on different pleats and end up with it all williwaud. (that's a technical term among sporran makers)
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05-12-2007, 11:19 AM
|  | | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,045
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by turpin  williwaud. (that's a technical term among sporran makers) | Poppycock! No such word! 
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05-12-2007, 11:53 AM
| | | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Iowa
Posts: 931
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I think it was a joke...
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05-12-2007, 12:04 PM
|  | Retired Forum Moderator | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Mexico
Posts: 4,684
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MacKenzie from SWK? WHen did those come available?
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05-12-2007, 12:17 PM
|  | Has not logged in for 1 year | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: redding,CA
Posts: 503
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If you use curved pins, other wise I'd baste it. Start from the bottom, and holding the material in front and behind the foot you are going to pull the material tight/snug as it travels under the presser foot, other wise you will get a little pucker in the top material when you get to the top, ( no matter how well you pin/baste). It's abit tricky at first so warm up on some scrap first. Good luck! And if all else fails 
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05-12-2007, 05:54 PM
|  | Retired Forum Moderator | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,697
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If you are not careful you'll mess up the fit. I've tried this twice and had to rip out all the stitches until I wised up. Have someone pin the pleats down at the bottom of the fell while you are wearing said kilt. Otherwise it will never hang right. Since there is so little taper in it already if you just pin it while it's lying on the tabe you'll end up with a stove pipe, and the aprons will pull mightily when you put it on.
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05-12-2007, 06:05 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: State College, PA
Posts: 2,379
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OK, as Barb says: sew from the fell up, stretch the material to taper the pleat from the fell pleat width to the waist pleat width. You do know what the hip and waist measurement you are tayloring the kilt to? It may not be as easy as just sewing the pleats.
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05-13-2007, 06:41 AM
|  | Has not logged in for 1 year | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Bartlett, Tenn
Posts: 1,787
| |  Southern Tawk!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccga3359 Poppycock! No such word! | It's a SOUTHERN word! We have all kinda words you Canadians AIN'T GOT!  Ain't you never hearda Jeff Foxworthy? There are several Southern dictionaries and books on "how to speak Southern." If the English language can be mangled, I garontee {a Louisiana word} we goin' ta do it! 
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05-13-2007, 07:28 AM
|  | | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Columbia, SC USA
Posts: 1,968
| | | etymology of williwaud?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccga3359 Poppycock! No such word! | Mmm, actually I think it's a participle, describing one of two conditions
(a) sewing a seam in a watercraft which is struck by a williwaw;
(b) attempting to sew a pleat after one to many gude-willie-waughts!
(  ) Quote:
Originally Posted by Beuth Sim It's a SOUTHERN word! ... If the English language can be mangled, I garontee {a Louisiana word} we goin' ta do it! | I agree about the mangling part, but be cautious with the 'Cadien---our friends might lay some Quebecois on us, resulting in mutual incomprehension.
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Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon
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