[svc40bt]

My brother-in-law gave me a few antlers the last time we were there to visit. I have trimmed one to be part of a sgian dubh. Need to find some brass bar stock to finish off the handle.

Anyway, I am looking at the blades from Rab Gordon and Atlanta Cutlery. Just the polished stainless ones. Anyone have experience with both? Opinions as to edge-holding ability, finish, strength, etc?

Will be purchasing two to start, seems to be about the same price either way with shipping (hard to believe as one is coming from Scotland).

[Tobus]

Just the polished stainless ones. Anyone have experience with both? Opinions as to edge-holding ability, finish, strength, etc?

Honestly, if you're interested in how well it will hold an edge, don't bother with stainless.

[svc40bt]

I have been considering buying some tool steel and making my own blade, but I want to finish it this decade. Some of the new stainless steels hold a decent edge.

Here is the Atlanta Cutlery blade, that is actually described as high-carbon steel:

http://www.atlantacutlery.com/p-953-...bon-steel.aspx

And here is the Rab Gordon blade, right before the dirk blades:

http://www.lochnessorigins.com/acata...omponents.html

[Old Hippie]

Originally Posted by svc40bt

Anyway, I am looking at the blades from Rab Gordon and Atlanta Cutlery. Just the polished stainless ones. Anyone have experience with both? Opinions as to edge-holding ability, finish, strength, etc?

Just about any stainless blade (even a dull one) will eviscerate a trembling envelope or stab wickedly through packing tape on a box you're trying to get into. It'll also dig the accumulated gore and offal of daily life from under your fingernails.

If you're looking for a long-lasting edge then there are better steels. If you're looking for ornamentation, polished stainless with a little filework is presentable -- but a nice pattern-welded blade would be far more elegant.

A nice high-carbon steel blade -- even A2 which has a bit of chromium for stain resistance but not enough to be a true "stainless" -- has a further advantage, in that for those of us who've used a sgian dubh to flay an orange or draw-and-quarter an apple we have some interesting stains on the blade to weave into tales of blood and glory for our rapt audiences.

On the other hand, if you're interested to try your hand at it and see whether your work meets your personal standards to the extent of spending a bit more on the next one, then certainly a stainless blade will provide ample ground to show yer chops.

[Tartan Hiker]

And to your original question, Rab Gordon will offer only fine products. If you get a blade from him you can bet it will be beautiful and functional. Atlanta Cutlery blades are OK. I've got several and they are certainly serviceable but nothing to write home about.

[ShaunMaxwell]

I've had good luck with an ATS-34 blade (stainless) sgian, though I prefer carbon steel (5160 or 1084).

Here's a description of ATS-34 that Google yielded:

"ATS-34 is a Hitachi product that is very, very similar to 154CM. Normally hardened to around 59-61 Rc, it holds an edge very well and is tough enough even at that high hardness. Many custom makers and production companies use ATS-34."

Not sure if you'd be able to find a pre-made blade in ATS-34 though...

[Old Hippie]

Originally Posted by ShaunMaxwell

I've had good luck with an ATS-34 blade (stainless) sgian, though I prefer carbon steel (5160 or 1084).

I don't mean to be dishing on stainless. Made a few blades in it, myself. I just find stainless stock to be a cast-iron bugger to work. I like a good tough blade that tests right on Rc 60. I started using A2 back in 1990. It's not a good choice for big blades, but for small ones it's aces.

The downside is you either have to flood the kiln with nitrogen or wrap the blade tightly in stainless foil before heat-treating. Or send it to a specialist, in which case a nice small blade is an advantage because they won't charge you an arm and a leg to do the work, as it fits in a smaller kiln.

Been looking at some pre-made sgian blades, myself, thinking about an addition to the "armoury."

[Drac]

Stainless steels when heat treated properly will take and hold an edge quite well. There is a simple formula:

Good steel + good heat treat = good blade
Great steel + good heat treat = great blade
Any steel + bad heat treat = garbage

I've only done a couple blades of carbon. All others have been of various formulas of stainless. ATS-34 before it's quality went the same way as 154CM. Funny as it was what everyone went to when quality control went to pot in America. By the way ATS-34, 154CM, RWL-34, and CPM154 are all the same formula just different manufacturing techniques or locations. I made a ATS-34 hunter for my brother-in-law that has processed 6 deer and hasn't needed to be resharpened yet.

Some of the other steels mentioned above by the newer steels like S30V can almost stand toe to toe with a good carbon for toughness. It's a bitch to work with but well worth it.

Jim

[Ozark Ridge Rider]

You guys are way ahead of my forging an old file in a stoker fired coal furnace like I used to do. They didn't come out so pretty but they worked pretty good.

[Tartan Hiker]

Another option. I just made a knife using flat stock D2 tool steel that I got free from a local plane knife shop. From all I have read about D2 it seems that it is tough as nails, holds a great edge, has good corrosion resistance, and can be used as is without heat treating. So far I'm real impressed with it.