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  #21  
Old 11-10-2009, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hothir Ethelnor View Post
I'm not about to get offended.

I will pad the shoulders.

I hope to get back to this project this week I am working on some other stuff as well (wedding video, sporran, maple leaf kilt pleated to the sett...) It all kinda adds up.

I'll have another update with pictures of the skirts/flaps/pockets or whatever the term for them really is, tomorrow.


Good luck.

As far as I can find out, the flaps are called tasses. Going by my medieval armor book, It does appear that the doublets were influenced a little in design by some of the knight armor. They are military in origin, from what I have been told, so that makes sense... I think.
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  #22  
Old 11-11-2009, 07:48 AM
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It looks great so far.
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  #23  
Old 11-11-2009, 11:53 AM
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Here are some new pictures.

I made all the tassets for my second gen. mockup. I also fitted the collar and decided that it needs to be cut a bit smaller and higher in the front.

I started lining it and attached the first tasset. This tasset has the black braiding on it but no buttons yet. The center piece of braid is shorter as I want to make a buttonhole and have the center button operational. (If I don't like it I shall do it differently in wool.)











And a bonus picture of my new sporran I made this weekend.


Last edited by Hothir Ethelnor; 11-26-2009 at 10:02 PM.
  #24  
Old 11-11-2009, 01:07 PM
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YOU....are a talented and industrious young man.
  #25  
Old 11-11-2009, 01:12 PM
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Progressing quite nicely! Keep up the good work!
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  #26  
Old 11-11-2009, 09:02 PM
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I must say, your mock up is looking really good and the fabric isn't bad at all...will you be selling it to a lucky member of the rabble?

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  #27  
Old 11-11-2009, 09:06 PM
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Selling the mockup? I kinda doubt it, but you never know...
  #28  
Old 11-11-2009, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hothir Ethelnor View Post
Here are some new pictures.

I made all the tassets for my second gen. mockup. I also fitted the collar and decided that it needs to be cut a bit smaller and higher in the front.

I started lining it and attached the first tasset. This tasset has the black braiding on it but no buttons yet. The center piece of braid is shorter as I want to make a buttonhole and have the center button operational. (If I don't like it I shall do it differently in wool.)


Having worn Sheriffmuirs off and on for more than 30 years let me suggest that, if your kilt is at the proper height, the bodice of the jacket needs to be another 2 inches longer. This is to prevent "gaping". The bottom of the waistcoat needs to line up exactly with the bottom of the jacket-- this is critical in making the two pieces work as if they are a single garment.


I would suggest lopping an inch off the tashes or they'll look "floppy".


I would definitely put pockets in the tashes--




In my experience I've never been in a situation where the tashes needed to be buttoned. That said, even if you opt for functional buttons on the flaps, I think you might find having the centre line of braiding longer than those on either side to be more pleasing as the buttons would then follow the shape of the flap.

Something else you might want to remember is that the sleeves on a Sheriffmuir are considerably shorter than on a standard doublet in order to allow for a full show of lace at the wrist.
I'm very impressed with your work so far and can't wait to see the finished doublet.
  #29  
Old 11-12-2009, 06:34 AM
Hothir Ethelnor's Avatar  
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My kilt is being worn a few inches below proper level as it's a modern fashion tartan and a homemade style I tried out.

I'll remember the sleeves part.

I'll sew the tashes an inch deeper into the seam and trim the top off, and they do have pockets.
  #30  
Old 11-12-2009, 08:45 AM
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Location: Halifax, NS
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Nice, NICE work! Have you thought about the 'Make it with Wool' contest? You should check it out and see if you can qualify your jacket for this.

Your fitting is looking pretty good for the mock up. I see you have the shoulder pads in so now, just lightly interface the jacket fronts to prevent the pad line from bulging out the front. You don't need to do this on the mock up of course.

You might need to cut down the front bottom curve of the armhole to smooth out the pucker that goes from there and points upward to the pad. Or, go with thinner padding.

Anyway, carry on. Looking good!
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