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08-12-2009, 09:26 AM
|  | | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Murfreesboro TN
Posts: 233
| | | A "Tewksbury" 5-yard?
I own The Book and REALLY have enjoyed learning about traditional kiltmaking and very much look forward to making a 16oz full 8-yard traditional MacNaughton Weathered kilt one day.... The problem is, like so many in the screwed up American economy, I'm broke! So, as heretical as this may sound, I'm looking for a way to modify the instructions in The Art of Kiltmaking for a 5 yard casual kilt. Has anyone attempted this or have any advice? I'm hoping that I could make a casual to get me going but I don't care much for box pleats, which obviously includes the Newsome addendum out as well as the x-kilt instructions. I'm picky, I know! haha Any advice would be appreciated! 
__________________ -Adam Not all who wander are lost... -Professor J.R.R. Tolkien
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08-12-2009, 09:32 AM
|  | Registered Hobbyist | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 2,111
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I haven't done it but have had the same thought after buying my honey a 5-yarder from Burnett & Struth. Not sure how to pleat to get those shallower folds -- maybe choose something that can be pleated to the "no stripe" without getting the dreaded LCE. I just got some of the "tartan" from JoAnn's, but only 6 yards of a 44-inch wide bolt (that's all they had) so I may be finding out how to do it!
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08-12-2009, 12:25 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Roswell, Georgia USA
Posts: 3,801
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It'll really depend on the Tartan sett. If it's a short set, say 6 incehs, or you can use a half-sett to the stripe, it could work. I have a Macdonald of Glengarry 4-yarder from B&S, and the pleating looks good - but the shallower pleats don't seem to hold the crease well, especially at the first and reverse pleats. If you were to make those deeper, and do the rest shallow, you'd probably be OK.
alternatively, wait and save for the rest of the cloth you need for the 8-yarder. It would be worth it.
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08-12-2009, 01:06 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Morganton, North Carolina
Posts: 1,274
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I've been having Matt Newsome make 5 and 6 yard knife pleats for me for several years. To my way of thinking they are the best of all worlds-balanced and comfortable while retainig the advantages of traditional kilt look and heavyweight tartan. There will be fewer pleats and the pleats will be wider, but the effect is not displeasing, particularly if pleating to a stripe that is a little wider than average. There should be a thread on lower yardage kilts, I'll see if I can dig it up. In terms of construction, I think that things are the same, although you may not need to cut out the pleats for a 5 yarder, or put in canvas. These are handsewn kilts, though, and not machine top-stitched "casual" kilts. You can see a representative photo of my Leatherneck kilt if you go to the photos portion of Matt'e kilt website.
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08-12-2009, 02:24 PM
|  | Author of "The Art of Kiltmaking" | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deansboro, NY
Posts: 2,136
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If you otherwise follow the book instructions, you probably don't want to cut out the pleats if you're doing a 5 yard kilt. Matt might chime in on this one. You don't cut out the pleats on a 5-yard kilt, do you?
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08-12-2009, 02:27 PM
|  | | | Join Date: May 2009 Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 364
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You can do fewer pleats with wider reveals, I guess, but it'll be a pain to calculate... If anyone comes up with an easy solution, I'm looking forward to it, too!
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08-12-2009, 06:13 PM
| | | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Murfreesboro TN
Posts: 233
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Very interesting points, all! Just thinking, perhaps using 13ozs would be a better choice, given the smaller sett?? Anyway, I'm definitely excited about how this thread will shape up! I might smell another TAoK addendum!  ....anyone want to volunteer to write this one??? 
__________________ -Adam Not all who wander are lost... -Professor J.R.R. Tolkien
I hoip in God!
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08-12-2009, 07:30 PM
|  | | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: State College, PA
Posts: 2,379
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One could argue that a four yard box pleat would not swing as much as a 5 yard knife. What say you rabble?
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08-12-2009, 08:24 PM
| | | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Roswell, Georgia USA
Posts: 3,801
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Box pleats just don't hav the same swing as knife.
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Convener, Georgia Chapter, House of Gordon (Boss H.O.G.)
Where 4 Scotsmen gather there'll usually be a fifth.
7/5 of the world's population have a difficult time with fractions.
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