Tie tack vs. bar pin backing

[Kilted in Maine]

What would you DIYers suggest...

I plan to convert this I picked up on e-bay into a kilt pin:



It is just shy of 4" long and was planning to mount it like this (inspiration and photo from The Kilted Reverend):



Two problems I see are:
1. curvature of antler tine
2. height difference between tine and arrowhead

I thought I could sand down the tine to make it even with the arrowhead but I am afraid it would affect the mounting between the two pieces and loosen the arrowhead from the tine.

So I thought I could use Tie tack backings (2 or 3) instead or a small 3/4 bar backing on the tine combined with a tie tack backing on the arrowhead.





Has anyone used the tie tack backings? with success?

[sydnie7]

Not DIY, but the kilt pin I just purchased for bigdad1 (see his avatar) is a large, heavy piece held w/ two tie tacks, one each top and bottom. They are a higher quality than the ones you show (the removable part aka clutch pin is a solid piece, you pull the end up to release vs. the "pinch and pull" you show). Worn on wool, I might be concerned about the "pinch" mechanism snagging fabric. If it's on demin or the like, I see no such issue.

Interesting find and it'll be fun to see the finished project!

[Kilted in Maine]

Thanks, I hadn't considered the snagging issue.

I know the backing you are talking about and may have some of those backings lying around with tie tacks I no longer use - but using the pin may be a problem. There may not be enough material to set in epoxy.

Speaking of epoxy, that may be the solution.

Just put a big glob of epoxy on the arrowhead to set the bar pin backing even with the tine.

[sydnie7]

The two types of clutches can often be mixed/matched with different pins. That is, you may have a nice clutch on hand that will mate to a new pin that comes with backing plate for glueing.

But the pin length is critical, and some pins/clutches just don't interchange.

I suppose you could snip off the pin from unused tie tack and, as you say, glob in on with substantive epoxy. Working around old sports cars as I do, I've seen stranger things done with JB Weld!

[Clockwork John]

The "pinch" type pins don't work well when put through several layers of fabric. I've had a few tie pins fall off with that type of back.

[TheSp8]

I've used the tie-tack type pins and they've done well. I'd say use a dab of epoxy to help hold the head on the antler. They gently file down the back to make a nice flat spot to epoxy the pins. The further apart you can get them the better. that's a nice looking knife.

YMOS,
Tony

[JS Sanders]

Ditto on what TheSp8 said.

I carved a kilt pin specifically for one of my kilts over a decade ago. Epoxied clutch pins (2) were used to secure the kilt pin and are still going strong. And no damage to the woolen kilt fabric.

As long as the pins aren't too short, I would think you'd be just fine.

Slainte yall,
steve

[haxtonhouse]

I have a tie tack that I made from an arrowhead, and I have had problems with the arrowhead snagging the fabric of the tie.

[Kilted in Maine]

I have a tie tack that I made from an arrowhead, and I have had problems with the arrowhead snagging the fabric of the tie.

Well, hadn't thought of that either!

I just checked and the edges aren't to sharp to begin with but may just file/sand them down a bit to be safe.

I did purchase a bag of both types of fasteners and think I may need to go with the bar type backing due to the width of the tie-tack base.

If I get some time this week-end will see what I can come up with.

[JS Sanders]

<< I may need to go with the bar type backing due to the width of the tie-tack base. >>

I had similar problem and simply grinded the excess metal away with a Dremel tool.

Slainte,
steve