Messrs Scott Adie of London? - X Marks the Scot

D.A. Guertin · #1 10-14-2009, 07:05 PM

So, I'm thinking about getting a few bolts of MacLeod 1278 run up, and the STA references the source as Messrs Scott Adie of London. Hunting that further down, all I can find is that they had a pattern book, and it was around 1840 - 1850... Anyone know anything about them or this tartan?

ForresterModern · #2 10-14-2009, 07:45 PM

That source means the original tartan was registered a while back, before the formal STA was formed, and that the pattern came from a book by Mssrs Scott Adie of London, not that they are the only ones who make it. They are probably not even in business anymore.

I found this at the Scottish Registry of Tartans, listed as Macleod #3, and as STWR 1278:

http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tar....aspx?ref=2628

If that is what you are looking for it looks very much like a Macleod of Lewis in an extremely small sett. Might be worth querying the STA for the thread count directly to get an idea of how big the sett is. Once you have the threadcount, you would probably have to find a mill willing to do a specialty run of it for you as it does not appear to be on anyone's standard stock list (scotweb tartan search engine is pretty thorough with currently available tartans, but not perfect). So this is almost certainly a custom order. If you are really having several full bolts run of this you should be able to get someone like DC Dalgleish to give you a good price for it and a reasonable turnaround, although any of the bigger mills might also be interested if the order is big enough.

Hope this helps.

ForresterModern · #3 10-14-2009, 08:07 PM

Found the threadcount info for you from the Scottish Register of Tartans:

"You requested threadcount details from The Scottish Register of Tartans website for the MacLeod #3 tartan. The details are given below.

Threadcount: K12Y2K12Y18C2Y4
Pallet: K=101010BLACK;Y=E8C000YELLOW;C=960028RED;

You may wish to refer to the threadcount guidance section for further information on threadcounts.

The Scottish Register of Tartans
The National Archives of Scotland, H.M. General Register House, 2 Princes Street, Edinburgh, EH1 3YY
tel +44 (0) 131 535 1388 email: enquiries@tartanregister.gov.uk. "

This would indeed be for a very small sett as a typical tartan sett would be about 5-8 inches and a typical threadcount for sett in that range about 180-280 threads per repeat (approximately), usually closer to the upper range in both sett size and threadcount. The Macleod #3 above (presumably your 1278) only has a threadcount repeat of 50, likely putting the sett size down in the 2-3 inch or smaller range, depending on the size of each thread/intended weight of the tartan. That would make for a pretty close repeat and tight sett which might be tough to work with from a kilt making standpoint. Might want to talk to your kiltmaker about it before ordering.

Just a suggestion. Hope this helps.

jeff

D.A. Guertin · #4 10-15-2009, 08:06 AM

Jeff,

Thanks very much for your input. The one I'm looking at is also here: http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tart...tan_id=311.htm Which is the same as the one you posted if you click on the image to get the full size. Aside from being smaller than the standard MoL, it also has the doubled red lines through it. I have the exact same thread count from the same source (what an *awesome* feature!!), K12Y2K12Y18C2Y4, which, when plugged into the Interactive Tartan Weaver pulls up perfectly. I have a company lined up to make it in 13 oz. worsted for quite an attractive price, with a minimum order of 30 yards. Now, what I'm going to do with 10 - 15 kilts-worth of material in the same tartan, I haven't the foggiest, but I have really taken to this version of MoL for some reason...

HeathBar · #5 10-15-2009, 08:13 AM

Give Matt over at the Scottish Tartans Museum in Franklin, NC a call. He is a member here as well, M.A.C. Newsome.

He can get you a kilt length run of any tartan. That way you don't have to buy so much. Unless you want that much. Then you could send the material to your kiltmaker of choice.

ForresterModern · #6 10-15-2009, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D.A. Guertin

Jeff,

Thanks very much for your input. The one I'm looking at is also here: http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tart...tan_id=311.htm Which is the same as the one you posted if you click on the image to get the full size. Aside from being smaller than the standard MoL, it also has the doubled red lines through it. I have the exact same thread count from the same source (what an *awesome* feature!!), K12Y2K12Y18C2Y4, which, when plugged into the Interactive Tartan Weaver pulls up perfectly. I have a company lined up to make it in 13 oz. worsted for quite an attractive price, with a minimum order of 30 yards. Now, what I'm going to do with 10 - 15 kilts-worth of material in the same tartan, I haven't the foggiest, but I have really taken to this version of MoL for some reason...

DA

I saw that double red stripe in the Macleod #3 as the only real difference between it and MoL, too, and figured that at the size of the sett it would not be noticeably different compared to the bigger sett of the MoL. IF all you are seeking is enough for one kilt definitely consider ordering from Matt, as he can get a run as small as 4 yards SW for one of his 4yd box pleated kilts, which are becoming a collectors item. If you are more into a standard 8 yd knife pleat, Matt could stil help you with that, or you could talkd to other kiltmakers who could special order the right amount of the tartan for you , and they get a bit more oof a discount. Lastly, you could go to DC Dalgleish, who will do a single 8yd or 8m run of a custom tartan at a standard rate of about 29gbp per yard, and then you can find your kiltmaker later and just send them the fabric and let them build it up. the Dalgleish infomation is available in another thread over in the General section under "Special weave..." Having a whole 30yd bolt, even of single width fabric, would leave you with a lot of extra tartan and an uncertain audience to whom you might be able to sell it. Before ordering you might want to post and ask if anybody else would like to get in on your special weave---other Macleods may be interested---and see if you can get an up front sale/order going to guarantee that you will be able to sell the excess from what you need, especially since you already know what the price of the woven bolt is going to cost you..

good luck with it. once your item (presumably a kilt) is completed, pictures will be in order.

D.A. Guertin · #7 10-15-2009, 08:48 AM

Was already seriously considering him for another quite special project I already have going. ;-)

It actually won't be too terribly much more between what I'd pay Matt for a 1-kilt run as what I'm looking at paying for this 30 yard run. A reasonable difference, at least...

HeathBar · #8 10-15-2009, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D.A. Guertin

Was already seriously considering him for another quite special project I already have going. ;-)

It actually won't be too terribly much more between what I'd pay Matt for a 1-kilt run as what I'm looking at paying for this 30 yard run. A reasonable difference, at least...

Can you share the details of this weaver? I'm sure there would be many who would be quite interested in the details. If someone is weaving kilt quality material in this price range, it would be good information to have.

ForresterModern · #9 10-15-2009, 08:55 AM

if i had any Macleod blood in my I might have jumped in on the deal, if it is that good.

D.A. Guertin · #10 10-15-2009, 09:09 AM

I'm dealing with a neighbouring company in China, where I already have business with custom swords and such. Not the panache of Scottish-made fabric, but in this case, as far as I'm concerned 100% worsted wool at the proper weight and weave is the same, regardless of where it's made. When the difference in price amounts to 75% or so, my love of Scotland and my pride in my family ceases to surpass my raw pragmatism... :-(