[artificer]

Originally Posted by Chas

Hi,

Are these the things you are looking for?



If so, why can you not make one out of a wire coat hanger?
Chas

I could make them out of coat hanger for me personally, but I'd like something welded in a chrome plated finish. SOMEONE is making them for all these kilt belt makers (gods know they aren't doing it themselves) it's just a matter of finding out WHO is making them.

I like Tandy also, but I do prefer to make my own belts out of raw strap. I prefer four 'Chicago Screws' to two snaps. As my father used to say (and sometimes still does) "You can never over-build"

Originally Posted by Tobus

I've been thinking about the same thing, but I'm not sure a wire coat hanger would be stout enough. It would probably bend and distort if you tighten the belt even a little, or if you try to hang any weight from the belt.

The 1/8" diameter steel rod should be plenty stout enough for a kilt belt waistplate connector...

Why don't the regular kilt accessory vendors carry these??????????

Very nice replication of the strap! Apart from the fact that your craftsmanship is better than the original

I'm still completely flummoxed by the non-existence of this product in belting/hardware catalogs. I really don't want to contract a local firm to produce these for me when I know somewhere there is a source (most likely China) that is making them by the TON. In the words (mis-appropriated) of General Macauliffe... "Nuts".

[Chas]

Originally Posted by artificer

I like Tandy also, but I do prefer to make my own belts out of raw strap. I prefer four 'Chicago Screws' to two snaps. As my father used to say (and sometimes still does) "You can never over-build"

Am I understanding this correctly. When you say Chicago Screws, do you mean some kind of rivet? I can understand the need for a secure joint, but I wonder how much tension these belts are under. After all, if the kilt is properly made, it will hold itself up. The belt would only be there to add a visual break to the overall look and, of course, a bit of bling.

I use the two snaps, as they allow me to swap the buckles for different occasions.

I think that you are probably right, these 'things' are made in China. And have probably been made in China for decades. So when it says on my kilt belt 'Made in Scotland', do you think they really mean 'Assembled in Scotland'? Maybe we shouldn't think about this too deeply. As I keep telling my son - "Don't ask the question, if you don't want to hear the answer".

Regards

Chas

[artificer]

Originally Posted by Chas

Am I understanding this correctly. When you say Chicago Screws, do you mean some kind of rivet? I can understand the need for a secure joint, but I wonder how much tension these belts are under.

I use the two snaps, as they allow me to swap the buckles for different occasions.

I think that you are probably right, these 'things' are made in China. And have probably been made in China for decades. So when it says on my kilt belt 'Made in Scotland', do you think they really mean 'Assembled in Scotland'? Maybe we shouldn't think about this too deeply. As I keep telling my son - "Don't ask the question, if you don't want to hear the answer".

Regards

Chas

The Chicago Screw is like a threaded rivet. It has a slotted back for a flathead screwdriver to tighten/loosen.

One of the reasons I like these is that you can disassemble to allow swapping out buckles/repair etc. I think the finish of these is nicer than the snaps on the snapped belt blanks (which I've used). They are also available in chromed steel, brass and black.

Also, with any belt 2" wide or wider I feel that the double attachment will help prevent the belt 'curling' with the gravity of certain substantial men... this is especially true as the belt softens with use. This is doubly true with spirit dyed and oil/wax finished leathers (rather than the 'hard-coat' leathers usually available from regular kilt outfitters, where the whole surface is essentially painted on with acrylic 'dye').

As for "don't ask the question..." I tell my son that ALL the time as well

[Tobus]

I'll second artificer's recommendation of Chicago screws. I use them all the time, and they're very handy. Unlike a rivet, you can actually take the thing apart later. And they're much stronger and more durable than snaps.

The flat-yet-domed heads lay virtually flush with the leather (assuming you buy the right length screwposts - they come in varying lengths for thicker or thinner layers of leather you're joining). One side just looks like a smooth dome, and the other is the same but has a slot for a flat-head screwdriver.

There are only two 'gotchas' with Chicago screws. First, they can tend to unscrew themselves over time if you don't do something to 'lock' the threads. Second, if you don't size the holes in the leather properly, they can be hard to unscrew. Your hole has to be punched the right size so the screwpost is tight in the leather. The friction in the hole is the only thing preventing it from rotating when you try to screw or unscrew the other piece. There's no way to hold the smooth domed side without marring it or the leather. So hole diameter is important.

But they work great and they're cheap. You can get 'em in nickel or brass platings. Maybe even a blued finish too, if I recall correctly.

[cavscout]

I refer to those as a wire bail. Don't know if it is correct terminology but seeing as everyone I've talk with knows what I mean when I say it, I'm sticking with it.

I suggest just making your own. Save yourself the headache of searching, unless you enjoy the hunt. I searched a long time and explored many options ranging from China to having them made here in the US in bulk and it was simply cost prohibitive. I settled on making my own from 1/8" rod. I have made them for 2.25", 2.5" and 3" belts and I could do it for any size needed. If you ever do happen to find them they will likely be for a 2.25" belt.

[NorCalPiper]

' . .. . . . . . .. . . . . . .. . .. . . . . . . . . . .. .
. . .. . .. .. . .. .. . .. . . . . .. .. . .. . .
. . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . .. .

[Thorn and Thistle Leather]

Forget Tandy, unless you really want to over pay... Trust me I worked for them for a short period of my life that I will never get back. The easiest fix is to go to your local hardware or welding supply store and purchase 3/32 welding rod in either brass or steel, your choice. I made a jig out of nails and plywood to get the bend to look professional, and sanded the ends after the cut was made to round off the ends. I assume that you made your belt 1 1/2" longer and used a bag punch to relieve a slot for the andiron shape to protrude. Sew the end down and you have saved yourself time and money... Daniel

[artificer]

I was given a tip by an English tack maker
http://www.leprevo.co.uk/d%27s_o%27s_steel.htm

They can be ordered in pretty minimal qtys, it's # KL58 on the bottom of the page.

share and enjoy

[Thorn and Thistle Leather]

Thanks for the info... I knew there had to be someone manufacturing these. It's only through resources like this one that people can learn of such. I have developed a working practice of Do it Yourself for so long that I don't bother to look for a source until after. However I agree that over building a product and utilizing quick detachment hardware is the best way to go. I don't get the chance to build Kilt belts often, but I have incorporated a similar principle of the Law Enforcement belts that I manufacture. Let's just say that a Sam brown button is much more comfortable on the inside of the belt than a standard buckle...

[Santa Kona]

Originally Posted by artificer

I was given a tip by an English tack maker
http://www.leprevo.co.uk/d%27s_o%27s_steel.htm

They can be ordered in pretty minimal qtys, it's # KL58 on the bottom of the page.

share and enjoy

That is just what I have been looking for will call them for an order Thanks.