Tweed: how thick is too thick for a hemmed kilt?

[usonian]

As autumn is ushering in cooler weather, my thoughts are finally turning to a length of tartan I acquired over the summer: Munro Hunting in Harris Tweed. It's a lovely piece of fabric, and I purchased it with the intention of turning it into a 4-yard box pleated kilt per Barbara and Matt's companion instructions to The Art of Kiltmaking.

It has a finished edge on both sides. Not perfectly crisp, but given the rustic character of the tweed I'd be fine with using it as-is. The only catch is that there's a single light thread woven right along the edge... perhaps a floating selvedge used during weaving:





With a piece of worsted wool tartan I would just hem the edge to hide that thread, but this tweed is a bit thicker than the 16oz worsted wool I used for my last kilt... and combined with the fact that (from what I've read here) tweed doesn't hold as crisp of an edge I'm concerned about a hemmed edge being bulky and bulgy, particularly in the pleats.

I was wondering if Matt or any other kiltmakers who work with tweed have any thoughts about how thick is *too* thick when it comes to hemming a tweed kilt. I know it's hard to advise without being able to handle the cloth, but any general thoughts or observations would be much appreciated. Thanks!

-Andy

[Paul Henry]

A Harris tweed I am working on at the moment, so probably a similar weight to yours, I simply fold it over once , pin and then sew it with a blind/catch/hem stitch, and then press it very hard with steam and a cloth on the wrong side, and it seems to work well, almsot invisible from the front.
I think the steam action actually helps to set the edge by the very slight felting action, you can see both sides in the photo


This is a another tweed I used ages ago, and it had a bad edge which had to be cut and trimmed, I machine overlooked the edge and then sewed it by hand to finish.

[Grizzly]

Just want to say well done to both of you for posting such clear photos. It makes a huge difference to numpties like me to follow what you are talking about.

[creagdhubh]

Just want to say well done to both of you for posting such clear photos. It makes a huge difference to numpties like me to follow what you are talking about.

Indeed!

[Kiltboy]

...I simply fold it over once , pin and then sew it with a blind/catch/hem stitch, and then press it very hard with steam and a cloth on the wrong side...

I agree. I've only made one tweed kilt (see here) as a 4 yard box pleat, and the hem was a bit clunky. But after a good press, it behaved properly.

[MacMillans son]

Wow Paul, that top tweed is beauttiful! Is that fabric readily available?

[Paul Henry]

Wow Paul, that top tweed is beauttiful! Is that fabric readily available?

I hesitate to say this, but yes! My experience has been with dealing with Harris tweed sellers that fabric come and go from stock quickly, but this particular one seems to be fairly standard, although there are likely to be some colour variations.
It is sometimes called Taransay Herringbone, and is certainly available here
By all means let me know if you would like some more info , sorry Andy for the hijack

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I would do (and have done) exactly what Paul describes. Should work well.
M

[usonian]

Thanks everyone, (kiltboy, I came across your thread while searching for tweed kilt examples. Really nice work, and very helpful photos of the pleats.) I will hem with confidence!