Interesting Highland Jacket

[figheadair]

I recently posted on the History section that the Carmichael Collection was shortly to go online. Well the tartan stuff is now up and includes and interesting jacket claimed to be c1745 that I'd seen through the glass but these pictures are superb and a great aid to study.

I'm not a costume expert but there's something about the cut that makes the date seem wrong. Revers collars are c1760-90 but the arms look more of a Regency cut. A nice jacket and the cloth is certainly C18th so perhaps it was reused later or the jacket restyled? The internal patch is Wilsons' cloth, their No158 whereas the black lining with the red stripes (checks) looks older.

Thoughts?

[Jock Scot]

I am no expert either, but in my ignorance every time that I have seen it I always thought, with its flaired "skirt", that it reminded me of a tartan hacking jacket.

[figheadair]

I know what you mean, something about the cut. I've been discussing this with a friend who knows her costume and it's certainly not mid-C18th. Together the style of the sleeves, collar and join below the waist put the jacket at c1830. The cloth however is homespun, dyed and woven and could well be considerably older. There is also something about the rear vents that's odd which may point the jacket having been altered at some point.

It's a shame that such a renowned collector and history as Carmichael did not record where/how he acquired most of his items, or perhaps he did and that has been lost.

[Highlander31]

My guess would be, the jacket having gone through multiple owners over the years, had repairs/changes made as required, or wanted by its owner at the time.

[MacMillans son]

Understanding that time and styles, as well as statures, have changed considerably since the suggested dates, it appears feminine in its cut to me. The rather hodgepodge work at the back with the pattern not matching and the numerous darts (?) makes it feel like a home modification by someone versed in sewing, but perhaps not in professional tailoring. Coupled with the fact that the lining for the skirts is not the same as the body of the jacket makes me think that perhaps they were not originally part of this jacket. Perhaps a combination of garments salvaged and combined to make this jacket. Grandpa's jacket and trews made into a Hacking type jacket for the grand daughter? Of course, just pure unbridled speculation Kind of fun though!