Tartan on the Bias?

[Deil the Yin]

I'm curious to know about Tartan "cut on the bias"... Is there any historical symbolism behind it or simply another way to fashion your tartan etc?

Any further input is greatly appreciated...

Curiouser and curiouser,
Wesley

[HeathBar]

I don't know about symbolism but I think bias cut started with trews and hose. Turning the material to the bias gave it more flexibility in the joints.

[figheadair]

There is no historical symbolism in tartan, or any other cloth, cut on the bias. Heathbar is absolutely right about the early practice of cutting trews and hose on the bias.

The making of jackets and waistcoats on the bias was a feature of the later Regency period and was in essence a fashion statement. The earliest bias cut tartan jacket I'm aware of is that worn by Col Alasdair Macdonnell of Glengarry in Raeburn's 1812 portrait. Glengarry was a bit of a dandy and perhaps started the fashion. Any style of tartan coat generally disappeared during William IV's reign in favour of plain coats although the odd one was still being worn later, probably older ones rather than contemporary with the date of the picture/portrait in which they appear.

[Mike_Oettle]

Thanks, Peter, for the historical background. While I was aware of the use of bias in hose/trews, I had no idea when it came into use in waistcoats.
I must say, though, that I think a bias-cut waistcoat looks a good deal smarter, since the sett then stands out from that of the kilt.
Regafrds,
Mike

[figheadair]

Thanks, Peter, for the historical background. While I was aware of the use of bias in hose/trews, I had no idea when it came into use in waistcoats.
I must say, though, that I think a bias-cut waistcoat looks a good deal smarter, since the sett then stands out from that of the kilt.
Regafrds,
Mike

It wasn't just waistcoats but jackets too. I've been approached to be the co-author on a book dealing with Highland Revival/Regency costume. It's in the early stages yet but with so much surviving it lends itself to a good book and I hope that we'll get it off the ground.

[BoldHighlander]

It wasn't just waistcoats but jackets too. I've been approached to be the co-author on a book dealing with Highland Revival/Regency costume. It's in the early stages yet but with so much surviving it lends itself to a good book and I hope that we'll get it off the ground.

Cool!
I hope so to, Peter.

[artificer]

It wasn't just waistcoats but jackets too. I've been approached to be the co-author on a book dealing with Highland Revival/Regency costume. It's in the early stages yet but with so much surviving it lends itself to a good book and I hope that we'll get it off the ground.

Fingers cross, Peter. I think it would be a smashing book. Please keep us posted on developments.

[RockyR]

Leaving all historical issues / discussions aside:

When you cut anything on the bias, the material has some 'give' or 'stretch' to it. Try it yourself...

Take your kilt and follow a line and pull STRAIGHT ACROSS that line. Now turn it 45" to the diagonal and pull. You'll see that the material stratches on the diagonal, but not straight.

This is a neat property of woven cloth (not JUSt tartan, but all woven cloth).

[jhockin]

The earliest bias cut tartan jacket I'm aware of is that worn by Col Alasdair Macdonnell of Glengarry in Raeburn's 1812 portrait. Glengarry was a bit of a dandy and perhaps started the fashion. Any style of tartan coat generally disappeared during William IV's reign in favour of plain coats although the odd one was still being worn later, probably older ones rather than contemporary with the date of the picture/portrait in which they appear.

Can't recall the date, but if you check the painting of the battle of Culloden, where Highlands are in close quaters with English soliders, you'll note some of the Highlanders wearing jackets and vest, cut on the bias - pretty sure these were painted earlier than 1812 ...

[Woodsheal]

Can't recall the date, but if you check the painting of the battle of Culloden, where Highlands are in close quaters with English soliders, you'll note some of the Highlanders wearing jackets and vest, cut on the bias - pretty sure these were painted earlier than 1812 ...

You are referring to the famous painting by David Morier, which was done shortly after the '45 Rebellion. Morier is best know for his accurate paintings of the various British army regimental uniforms of the period.

And, yes! Bias-cut tartan coats do seem to be in evidence here;