Thoughts on 18oz MoD tartan material

[NorCalPiper]

I just finished a Box Pleat kilt made out of 18 oz Leslie tartan and really note on certain aspects of this kind of material.

I've worked with this material once before when I was able to pick up a fair amount of Black Watch material a year and a half ago off of eBay (I think many XMarkers jumped on that deal). The material is absolutley choice, yet the 2 extra oz gives this stuff a VERY rugged/dense look which is contradictory to the exquisite hand it produces. Having worked with Leslie tartan before from other mills of lesser weight, this material has the same dichotomy that I experienced with the Black Watch material. The tartan is darker than standard modern Leslie, has that rugged, dense appearance, yet it hand is just gorgeous.

I guess my final feeling is that I don't likenthe inconsistancy of MoD material. I like clear, defined bars and stripes of 16,13, and 10 oz material. MoD material, while having the best hand and I'm sure being great for colder climates, just lacks a crisp appearance of which i look for.

Anyway, just a rambling thought.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Josh,

I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that regimental weight material is woven using worsted yarns in the warp and saxony yarns in the weft (or perhaps that is vice versa). This is what gives it that more "fuzzy" brushed appearance and adds to the thickness of the cloth.

You are right, though, it is a real joy to sew!

M

[Steve of Lansing]

Well, if ya don't like it so much, you could send it to me.

[figheadair]

Josh,

I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that regimental weight material is woven using worsted yarns in the warp and saxony yarns in the weft (or perhaps that is vice versa). This is what gives it that more "fuzzy" brushed appearance and adds to the thickness of the cloth.

You are right, though, it is a real joy to sew!

M

Matt,

It depends on the era. I think that c1880-1930 OR cloth was all heavy worsted and Officers cloth Saxony or a fine worsted. Post WWII ORs' cloth was known as Cheviot which referred to the type of wool and gave the cloth under discussion here (modern worsted is made from a Crossbred spun fleece - don't ask me what). I don't know if this Cheviot was all worsted spun or worsted/saxony as you suggest.

The current RRS kilts are worsted and the same weight cloth for all ranks.

[NorCalPiper]

I'm not sure what era this cloth is from, but there is a gold MoD stamp # on the inside of the material. It is my guess that its fairly new. I'll take some pics before its gone.