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  1. #1
    Join Date
    24th September 04
    Location
    Victoria, BC Canada 48 25' 47.31"N 123 20' 4.59" W
    Posts
    2,204

    The Art of Kiltmaking

    For anyone who is interested in making a Full Traditional Style Kilt, or wishes to understand what goes into the making of these works of art, there is only one source.

    "The Art of Kiltmaking"
    by Barbara Tewksbury & Elsie Stuehmeyer
    Printed by Celtic Dragon Press
    ISBN 0-9703751-0-7
    Second printing 2007



    The author, known here on X Marks as Barb T., is renowned for her willingness to teach, help, and mentor aspiring kiltmakers.

    To order a copy please contact

    Celtic Dragon Press
    P.O. Box 244
    Deansboro, NY
    USA 13328

    Or visit the website: http://www.celticdragonpress.com

    The Book is also carried by many of our advertisers.
    Last edited by Steve Ashton; 26th June 10 at 02:28 PM.
    Steve Ashton
    Forum Owner

  2. #2
    Join Date
    26th January 05
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    5,717
    And don't forget the FREE supplement to The Art of Kiltmaking, which Barb and I authored, Making a Traditional Box Pleated Kilt, which is available for free download, here:
    http://scottishtartans.org/boxpleat.html

    (We also keep a good supply of TAoK in stock in our giftshop).
    Matthew A. C. Newsome, GTS
    Kiltmaker & Tartan Scholar
    US Distributor for House of Cheviot kilt hose
    Visit www.NewHouseHighland.com for custom kilts & knitwear.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    18th February 05
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    3,363
    Barb's book and the supplement are must haves if you wish to know about kiltmaking on any level. Even if you just wear one, you are enriched by the knowledge of what goes into the making of a kilt. I don't know how many copies of Barb's book I've bought and then sold to aspiring kiltmakers, but there are many copies in the Spokane area being used by mothers of dancers and others.
    Past President, St. Andrew's Society of the Inland Northwest
    Member, Royal Scottish Country Dance Society
    Founding Member, Celtic Music Spokane
    Member, Royal Photographic Society

  4. #4
    Join Date
    3rd January 08
    Location
    Illinois, USA
    Posts
    2,819
    Matt, thanks for the link to the suppliment. TAoKM is a must have if you are planning on buying a bespoke kilt. Knowing how a kilt is "built" even if you have no intention of making one yourself is invaluable information. The book certainly gave me good insights into the kilt before I purchased my first kilt.
    His Exalted Highness Duke Standard the Pertinacious of Chalmondley by St Peasoup
    Member Order of the Dandelion
    Per Electum - Non consanguinitam

  5. #5
    Join Date
    19th May 08
    Location
    Leucadia CA
    Posts
    3,328
    I've also gifted the book and treasure my own copy. Standard's point is perfect -- the book will allow you to converse knowledgeably with your kiltmaker even if you never take up the needle personally.

    Side note: I used to work for a publishing company that produced do-it-yourself repair manuals for cars, motorcycles, and a few oddities. At book shows, when people dismissed us with "I don't fix my own car," we always recommended they buy the book, smear some oil on the cover, break the spine, dog-ear a few pages, and then leave it on the front seat when they took the car in for service!

    I've thanked them before and I'll thank them again: Barb, Elsie, and Matt have made an incalculable contribution to our clan and the kilted world at large!
    Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].

  6. #6
    Join Date
    18th October 09
    Location
    Orange County California
    Posts
    4,552
    Yes this book is a must-have for any kiltwatcher!

    The section with all the photos showing well-made kilts and poorly-made kilts is an eye-opener. The next Highland Games I went to I spent a lot of time looking at the kilts around me with a much higher level of understanding. Wow there are a lot of badly made kilts out there! Mostly in pipe bands I will say.

    One curious aspect of the book is that it discusses two methods of pleating the kilt, to the sett/tartan and to the line/stripe.

    It mentions the "unfortunate lawnchair effect" when there is no strong verticle element present in the pleats.

    However, amongst pipe bands, this very sort of pleating is very common, either pleating to an open area of the tartan which has no vertical element at all, or pleating to an area of the tartan which has a very weak vertical line. At distance, both look the same: the pleats show only horizonal lines.

    I have heard this method of pleating called "pleating to the block".

    Interesting that it's not mentioned in this book.

    Here it is:


  7. #7
    Join Date
    29th April 07
    Location
    Columbia, SC USA
    Posts
    2,100
    Quote Originally Posted by OC Richard View Post

    I have heard this method of pleating called "pleating to the block".
    It's considered a special case of pleating to the stripe.

    Sometimes it works---the Isle of Skye example is popular. Sometimes it may tip over over the line into the DLCE.
    Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon

  8. #8
    Join Date
    2nd May 10
    Location
    Roseville, California
    Posts
    1,422

    Pleating to the block

    I chose to have my Lochcarron Strome MacMillan Old Weathered pleated to the olive/brown block in order to tone down the fuschia a bit. It looks great, and achieved my objective! My kilt maker is Donna Willy of Pleasonton Ca., a friend and dedicated student of Ms. Stuemeyer, so I am sure she would not have created something that she felt was a kilting faux pas.

    Although I have a photobucket account, I have not mastered getting photos from my computer onto it and then moved to Xmarks. I must commit to taking the time to figure it out!

    I'll try to get that done today.

    Brooke

  9. #9
    Join Date
    25th December 08
    Location
    Lotus Land
    Posts
    2,193
    My copy just landed. I breezed past the first three chapters as mostly what I've discovered on my own and then hit Chapter 4. I'm so pleased with how richly informative this book is. My questions are being answered now on literally every page. I can't wait to digest it in more depth once my little man has gone to bed. I am very close now to my first tartan cloth purchase.

    Thanks Barb & Elsie!

    X
    He was a dreamer, a thinker, a speculative philosopher ... or, as his wife would have it, an idiot. ~ Douglas Adams

  10. #10
    Join Date
    2nd May 10
    Location
    Roseville, California
    Posts
    1,422
    Quote Originally Posted by MacMillan's son View Post
    I chose to have my Lochcarron Strome MacMillan Old Weathered pleated to the olive/brown block in order to tone down the fuschia a bit. It looks great, and achieved my objective! My kilt maker is Donna Willy of Pleasonton Ca., a friend and dedicated student of Ms. Stuemeyer, so I am sure she would not have created something that she felt was a kilting faux pas.

    Although I have a photobucket account, I have not mastered getting photos from my computer onto it and then moved to Xmarks. I must commit to taking the time to figure it out!

    I'll try to get that done today.

    Brooke

    Ok I think I got it!

    Here is another example of "pleating to the block" (olive/brown)
    I'll post to the photo forum when I get some with it on!





    Brooke

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