X Marks the Scot - An on-line community of kilt wearers.

   X Marks Partners - (Go to the Partners Dedicated Forums )
USA Kilts website Freedom Kilts website Scotweb websiten Burnetts and Struth website Celtic Croft website
Xmarks advertising information Celtic Corner website Xmarks advertising information Houston Kiltmakers Xmarks advertising information

User Tag List

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23
  1. #1
    Join Date
    30th November 04
    Location
    Deansboro, NY
    Posts
    3,312
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    A few thoughts on pleating to the stripe

    I just finished a kilt pleated to the stripe in the Royal Naval Association tartan, and I thought I'd post a couple of pics that illustrate a few things about pleating to the stripe.



    This tartan has a huge sett (something like 13"). While it looks at casual glance that the tartan ought to repeat every red/white/red stripe, the intervening blocks are not identical. In reality, this is an ABAC sett, and the sett has to include the full tartan repeat.

    If you tried to pleat this to the sett, you'd only get about 14-15 pleats into the back of the kilt (and each pleat would be about 6" deep). There are two alternatives. You could try "cheating" the pleats by picking up the right tartan elements at intervals of less than one full sett. This would probably work for this tartan, because most of the elements you'd want to pick up occur more than once per sett. You might have to have an occasional full-sett pleat that would be deeper than all the rest, but that wouldn't show except from the back side of the kilt.

    The other alternative is to pleat to the "A" stripe that occurs twice per sett. That's what I did in this case. This also makes the pleat reveal and the pleat interior very different in color, so that the pleats have a cool flash of dark when the wearer walks.



    You can also see why it's really really important to stand back from a test pleating to get the overall color effect. Even though this kilt has no purple in it, the back of the kilt from a distance has a purple cast to it because of the way the red, black and royal interact. You can see the same thing in Black Stewart kilts pleated to the stripe. I like it, and so did the customer, but you don't want to be surprised by failing to check!

    And one last thing. I actually had enough tartan to put two more pleats into this kilt. I chose not to, because that would have made each pleat small enough at the waist that the narrow black stripes edging each pleat would have essentially vanished at the waist, putting the red stripe of one pleat against the red stripe of the next. That wouldn't have looked good. So, it always pays to do a test pleating _with the pleat taper_ to make sure that you don't lose an element that is crucial to the overall appearance of the kilt.
    Last edited by Barb T; 30th June 17 at 02:19 PM.
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

  2. #2
    James MacMillan is offline Membership Revoked for repeated rule violations.
    Join Date
    15th July 07
    Location
    California
    Posts
    4,573
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    As only a kilt wearer and not a kilt maker, I always enjoy your explanations. Even with having your book and being able to look at it I still learn things from your posts.

    I really like pleating to stripe and that is my preferred way.

    And before I say anything else, or perhaps instead of saying anything else.

    That is one georgeous kilt!

    Nice work Barb!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    3rd November 07
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    687
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for the insight.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    18th December 06
    Location
    Burlington, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    6,010
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Just curious could you pleat it to alternate BC stripes? I'm not asking you to take the pleats out to show me as I know who this kilt is for and that would just be mean. Can't wait to see it in person.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    23rd March 06
    Posts
    426
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Beautiful pictures.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    9th August 06
    Location
    Fort Collins, Colorado, USA
    Posts
    926
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Barb, that is a lovely kilt! Thanks for taking the time to explain that to us, your instructional posts are a treat.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    11th March 08
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    656
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well... now I'm jonesing. But thank you.
    "To the make of a piper go seven years of his own learning, and seven generations before. At the end of his seven years one born to it will stand at the start of knowledge, and leaning a fond ear to the drone he may have parley with old folks of old affairs." - Neil Munro

  8. #8
    Join Date
    30th November 04
    Location
    Deansboro, NY
    Posts
    3,312
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ccga3359 View Post
    Just curious could you pleat it to alternate BC stripes? I'm not asking you to take the pleats out to show me as I know who this kilt is for and that would just be mean. Can't wait to see it in person.
    Matt does this for box pleated kilts, and it makes a lot of sense for certain tartans for that kind of kilt.

    I've seen trad knife-pleated kilts kilts on occasion that are pleated to alternate stripes, but it's my impression that it's not considered "proper" for a knife-pleated kilt. If someone knows differently, I'd be happy to be educated!
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    10th December 06
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    14,015
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Barb
    I'm home now but I have already had about 3 compliments on your handiwork with this one, and after a 5 or so hour drive back home there is not even a hint of a wrinkle in those lovely pleats. I also must say how impressed I am with the softness of the DC Daglish wool, none of my other wool kilts feel as comfortable as this one, thanks again.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    26th November 05
    Location
    New York City
    Posts
    174
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What a beautiful kilt! Thanks for the lesson...I may have to add that tartan to the list...
    [COLOR="Blue"][FONT="Trebuchet MS"][I]
    And this shall be for music, when no one else is near; The fine song for singing, the rare song to hear; That only I remember, that only you admire; Of the broad road that stretches and the roadside fire. (RL Stevenson)
    [/I][/FONT][/COLOR]

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Pleating challenges #1: dealing with a too-wide central stripe
    By Barb T in forum Hint and tips from Barb T.
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 12th December 07, 02:11 PM
  2. Pleating to the stripe or stripes.
    By wingedferret in forum General Kilt Talk
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 2nd October 07, 03:38 PM
  3. An interesting example of pleating to stripe
    By Barb T in forum Show us your pics
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 16th July 07, 01:25 PM
  4. Pleating to set and stripe
    By Freelander Sporrano in forum Kilt Advice
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 30th August 04, 05:50 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

» Log in

User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.0