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  1. #1
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    Nice example of pleating to the sett

    For those of you thinking about having a kilt made, one of the things that your kiltmaker will ask you is whether you want the kilt pleated to the sett or to the stripe. Some tartans have lots of options. For those, I always pin up a bunch of alternatives, take pics with my iPad, and email the pictures to the person who has ordered a kilt. I've learned over the years that what appeals to me doesn't appeal to others and vice versa!

    But on to the main topic of this thread. Some tartans really don't have any options. This is particularly true of tartans with lots of stripes. For such tartans, pleating to the sett is commonly the only attractive option. I've just finished a kilt in Weathered Green Scott, and it is a wonderful example of a kilt that is gorgeous pleated to the sett.



    For you newbies, the aim of pleating to the sett is to reproduce the sett across the pleats. So, when the person is not moving and the pleats are smooth, the front and back of the kilt should look the same. In the kilt in the pic, the individual pleats are a little hard to see, but you can see where the diagonal edge of the apron transitions to the straight edges of the pleats. If you look closely, you can see that the pleats are still basted (the zigzag white lines). I put the basting in to hold the pleats for pressing, and I leave it in for shipping. The customer will take the basting out after he gets the kilt.
    Last edited by Barb T; 29th June 17 at 12:03 PM.
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

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  3. #2
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    I pulled out my D C Dalgleish kilt in Cameron of Erracht in the weathered palette to compare. The colouring looks the same, the sett size seems to be similar (about 7"), and mine is pleated to the sett too, but mine would probably take being pleated to a stripe, because it is less 'busy' as it does not have the narrow white stripes of the Scott. In general, my pleating preference is to the sett, except if there is a possibility that to the stripe might have a nice 'flash'.

    Curious thing about my CofE (W). A noticeable proportion of women whom I have asked, perhaps the majority, have negative reactions to the colouring, right from my mother's "Yuck!" when I first opened the package; men generally like it. Barb, what gender is your customer, if I may ask?
    Grizzled Ian
    XMTS teaches much about formal kilt wear, but otherwise,
    ... the kilt is clothes, what you wear with it should be what you find best suits you and your lifestyle. (Anne the Pleater)
    "Sometimes, it is better not to know the facts" (Father Bill)

  4. #3
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    That one turned out very nice Barb.

    I think my IPA tartan has a similar characteristic. Comments here indicated pleating to the sett was the best option. That tartan has a lot of stripes. By the way, I did finish sewing in all the pleats. I did not like the way it turned out so I removed all the stitching and will make another attempt. Barb, I did draft you a PM but I am not sure it was actually sent.

    Mike

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grizzled Ian View Post
    A noticeable proportion of women whom I have asked, perhaps the majority, have negative reactions to the colouring, right from my mother's "Yuck!" when I first opened the package; men generally like it. Barb, what gender is your customer, if I may ask?
    Customer is male, but, then again, virtually all the people I make kilts for are guys. Me, I LOVE weathered tartans. As a geologist and a piper, though, I'm not your typical female....
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

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  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike in Dayton View Post
    Barb, I did draft you a PM but I am not sure it was actually sent.
    Mike
    Just looked - it's in my Inbox. Was out in the field with my students all day. Will look at it in a few minutes!
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barb T View Post
    I've just finished a kilt in Weathered Green Scott, and it is a wonderful example of a kilt that is gorgeous pleated to the sett.

    WOW!

    Generally speaking, I'm a fan of pleating to the stripe, but this is absolutely gorgeous. Amazing work getting that fiddly sett reproduced perfectly in all of those pleats.
    That is stunningly beautiful. From the brass buckles to the brown straps to the already mentioned pleating- everything ties together perfectly

    ith:
    artificer Pronunciation: \är-ˈti-fə-sər, ˈär-tə-fə-sər\ : noun : 14th century :a skilled or artistic worker or craftsman
    Artificer Custom Sporrans
    *Home of the Original Kenneth MacLeay Sporran Project & Functional Brass Cantles*

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  10. #7
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    Wow - thank you!
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

  11. #8
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    Wow what beautiful work....... What more can be said than that?

  12. #9
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    Another gem, Barb!

    One of my favourite tartans from Clan Scott.
    The Official [BREN]

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  14. #10
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    Work. Of. Art. Thank you for showing us, Barb! And I agree with Artificer that the brown straps and brass buckles really kick it up to 11.

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