Determining tartan weights??

[denmcdough]

I was just wondering: how can you differentiate between fabric weights...say, 13oz. vs. 16oz.? I recently purchased a kilt from Scotland, made specifically for me, and it's a 16 oz. However, when feeling it, I honestly can't tell the difference between it and my other kilts, some of which are 13oz. and some are 16oz. They all feel the same to me; my fingers just can't make the tactile difference. Is there another way, other than feel, to determine whether a kilt is heavy or medium weight?

[RockyR]

The "weight" of the cloth is determined by taking 1 yard of the cloth at DOUBLE width (54" to 60") and weighing it.

After it's made into a kilt, you can't do that though.

Take it to your closest kiltmaker and let them feel it. They should know whether it's 13 or 16 oz (and possibly what mill did the weaving).

[Pleater]

If you know which of your other kilts is a 16 oz or 13 oz, by weighing kilts of similar length you should be able to tell those of heavier cloth.

As tartan is normally woven 54 inches wide, one yard of 16 oz fabric 24 inches wide would be 16 multiplied by 4/9ths - almost exactly 7 oz. Eight yard kilts in 16 oz fabric would weight 56 oz plus the internal stiffening and lining plus buckles - about 4lb at a guess.

Eight yards of 13 oz with lining and buckles would be about 3 and 1/4lb.

Anne the Pleater

[Riverkilt]

I can tell the difference when I strap them on - maybe - they are so close in weight sometimes I have to look up what I bought to know the difference.

I don't think anyone can tell the difference by looking or feeling - save the experts.

[davidlpope]

Try comparing the size of the individual threads in the twill pattern. Because 16oz. Is thicker thread, the same number of threads will make a wider stripe. I.e. A six-thread red stripe on a 13oz. Tartan will be narrower than a six- thread red stripe on a 16oz. Tartan, assuming the fabrics are from the same mill( to minimize other variables.). Also, a person experienced with tartan will probably be able to tell you which mill wove your fabric based on the particular shades of colors used. Then it's easy to see what weight is available from that mill in a particular tartan. All that being said, if you handle enough tartan, your eyes and fingers will "get smart". Try to get your hands on some swatchbooks. Sometimes just spending time with a mill's fabrics will lend insight.