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  1. #1
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    What about the long kilts?

    I was just wanting to ask if there was any historical foundation for the "long kilt" that goes to the ankles.

    I'm aware of the late medieval illustration of Scots in kilts of various length, but I was wandering if anyone could share any more information on the subject matter.

    I seem to recall hearing a martial arts instructor mention that long skirts served well to conceal footwork, and I'm beginning to get the impression there was a lot of that in British traditional martial arts ("cock stepping," etc.) Just a thought.

    This is for an illustration I'm making of kilted fighters.

  2. #2
    An t-Ileach's Avatar
    An t-Ileach is offline This member has been inactive for more than 1 year
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    They're probably the feileadh mor with the top bit let down to the ankles all around.
    cuimhnich air na daoine o’n d’thainig thu – remember the people from whom you sprung
    le meas
    Daibhidh/David
    Avatar Tartan: MacDonald

  3. #3
    M. A. C. Newsome's Avatar
    M. A. C. Newsome is offline Owner - New House Highland

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    I'm not sure what "late medieval" illustrations you are talking about, but the feilidh-mhor cannot be documented any earlier than the end of the sixteenth century (1594) with the first illustrations not coming until early in the seventeenth century -- and most of the illustrations I have seen show it worn with the upper part secured in some way on or around the shoulders, so the kilt shows only knee length. Just from my own memory, the only illustrations I can think of that show it with the upper part down are eighteenth century. So hardly "late medieval" by any standard, so I don't think what you are describing is a feilidh-mhor.

    My best guess would be that you are thinking of the leine, or Gaelic tunic. Read my article here:
    http://albanach.org/leine.html

    You can see some illustrations of this garment. It was worn full length by women, and some men of high station. Most men, especially those who engaged in a lot of phyisical activity like soldiers, farmers, etc., wore the leine to the knee only, either by hiking up a full length leine giving the upper part a blousier appearance, or simply by wearing a leine cut to the knee.

    See if any of the illustrations in my article are like those you are thinking of. In any case, this is not a kilt at all by any definition, but a long shirt.

    Aye,
    Matt
    Matthew A. C. Newsome, GTS
    Governor, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Director Emeritus, Scottish Tartans Museum
    My own blog & writings on Highland Dress: Albanach.org

  4. #4
    GTRMAN's Avatar
    GTRMAN is offline Oop's it seems this member needs to update the email address in their profile.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roan Carter
    I was just wanting to ask if there was any historical foundation for the "long kilt" that goes to the ankles.

    I'm aware of the late medieval illustration of Scots in kilts of various length, but I was wandering if anyone could share any more information on the subject matter.

    I seem to recall hearing a martial arts instructor mention that long skirts served well to conceal footwork, and I'm beginning to get the impression there was a lot of that in British traditional martial arts ("cock stepping," etc.) Just a thought.

    This is for an illustration I'm making of kilted fighters.

    The long skirts your martial arts instructor is referring to is a Japanese Hakama which is pleated and runs to the ankle or even to the floor.


  5. #5
    Caradoc's Avatar
    Caradoc is offline This member has been inactive for more than 1 year
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    Quote Originally Posted by M. A. C. Newsome
    You can see some illustrations of this garment. It was worn full length by women, and some men of high station. Most men, especially those who engaged in a lot of phyisical activity like soldiers, farmers, etc., wore the leine to the knee only, either by hiking up a full length leine giving the upper part a blousier appearance, or simply by wearing a leine cut to the knee.
    My own leine reaches to the top of the calf. While wearing a belted plaid, I pull it up to blouse the top out and hide the hem under the "kilt" part of the belted plaid.

    The linen keeps the wool off the sensitive bits.
    Inter spem curamque, timores inter et iras
    Omnem crede diem tibi diluxisse supremum:
    Grata supervenient, quae non sperabitur hora.

  6. #6
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    [QUOTE=GTRMAN]The long skirts your martial arts instructor is referring to is a Japanese Hakama which is pleated and runs to the ankle or even to the floor.


    Yeah -- I recalled their functionality and was wondering if it was exclusive to the orient.

  7. #7
    Caradoc's Avatar
    Caradoc is offline This member has been inactive for more than 1 year
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    [QUOTE=Roan Carter]
    Quote Originally Posted by GTRMAN
    The long skirts your martial arts instructor is referring to is a Japanese Hakama which is pleated and runs to the ankle or even to the floor.


    Yeah -- I recalled their functionality and was wondering if it was exclusive to the orient.
    I don't know about the exclusivity, but there's a Western Martial Arts YahooGroup that might be helpful - they cover a lot of the so-called "Celtic" martial arts, including Cumann Bhata, purring, single-stick, broadsword, etc.

    Description

    a place to discuss the various European martial traditions that either currently active or have been in the past. Some of the topics will include: Boxing, Wrestling in all of it's european forms, Savate, Sambo, Pankration, Faction Fighting, Fencing, Rapier, Longsword, Broadsword any western style sword you can imagine! Pole arms from axes to spears! and anything else of european martial descent.

    Link to the Western Arts YahooGroup
    Inter spem curamque, timores inter et iras
    Omnem crede diem tibi diluxisse supremum:
    Grata supervenient, quae non sperabitur hora.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    4th April 06
    Location
    Asheville, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by M. A. C. Newsome
    I'm not sure what "late medieval" illustrations you are talking about, but the feilidh-mhor cannot be documented any earlier than the end of the sixteenth century (1594) with the first illustrations not coming until early in the seventeenth century -- and most of the illustrations I have seen show it worn with the upper part secured in some way on or around the shoulders, so the kilt shows only knee length. Just from my own memory, the only illustrations I can think of that show it with the upper part down are eighteenth century. So hardly "late medieval" by any standard, so I don't think what you are describing is a feilidh-mhor.

    My best guess would be that you are thinking of the leine, or Gaelic tunic. Read my article here:
    http://albanach.org/leine.html

    You can see some illustrations of this garment. It was worn full length by women, and some men of high station. Most men, especially those who engaged in a lot of phyisical activity like soldiers, farmers, etc., wore the leine to the knee only, either by hiking up a full length leine giving the upper part a blousier appearance, or simply by wearing a leine cut to the knee.

    See if any of the illustrations in my article are like those you are thinking of. In any case, this is not a kilt at all by any definition, but a long shirt.

    Aye,
    Matt
    I believe the illustration intended is this:

    A woodcut from your Early Scottish Dress book and from your website which you identify as being from 1641. True, not medieval, but earlier than 18th century
    ...Being drunk and weary, I went to Molly's chamber
    Taking Molly with me but I never knew the danger
    For about six or maybe seven, in walked Captain Farrell
    I jumped up, fired my pistols, and I shot him with both barrels...


    "Like most Irish drinking songs, 'Whiskey in the Jar' has no single standard set of lyrics. This variation is largely due to regional differences in dialect as well as the variable stages of inebriation in which it is sung."

  9. #9
    M. A. C. Newsome's Avatar
    M. A. C. Newsome is offline Owner - New House Highland

    Contributing Kilt Historian
    Join Date
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    On that 1641 woodcut, three of the men are kilted -- one has a kilt above the knee, one right on the knee, and one well below the knee, but still not ankle length.

    I was thinking of some of the earlier illustrations showing the longer leine.

    M
    Matthew A. C. Newsome, GTS
    Governor, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Director Emeritus, Scottish Tartans Museum
    My own blog & writings on Highland Dress: Albanach.org

  10. #10
    Join Date
    4th April 06
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    62
    Ah, fair enough. To me one of them looks like his kilt length could be interpreted as close enough to ankle length as makes no neverminds. But you've no doubt studied that and other pictures more than I have. BTW, I've been meaning to make my way down to the museum soonish, are you generally around? I'd love to meet you.
    ...Being drunk and weary, I went to Molly's chamber
    Taking Molly with me but I never knew the danger
    For about six or maybe seven, in walked Captain Farrell
    I jumped up, fired my pistols, and I shot him with both barrels...


    "Like most Irish drinking songs, 'Whiskey in the Jar' has no single standard set of lyrics. This variation is largely due to regional differences in dialect as well as the variable stages of inebriation in which it is sung."

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