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  1. #1
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    Show shirt cuff at end of Crail or Tweed jacket sleeve?

    Hi folks,

    This is my first post in the forum, but I have been researching kilts, particularly jackets for a wee while.

    I’m keen on either a Crail or a Tweed jacket, but I’m not sure if there’s a proper way to show the shirt underneath.

    Specifically, as with a regular business suit, should we show a little bit of shirt cuff at the end of the Crail or Tweed jacket sleeve?

    Thanks,

    vulpi

  2. #2
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    Yes shirt cuffs should be shown just like a business suit. Here is a recent photo showing what I mean



    The same outfit standing with just a touch of sleeve showing

    Last edited by McMurdo; 7th September 18 at 07:22 AM.

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by vulpi View Post
    ... I’m not sure if there’s a proper way to show the shirt underneath.
    As McMurdo said, it should work just like any other non-kilt jacket. The cuff at the wrist should peek out a little. Like so:



    If you're ordering one that's made to size, be careful with the measuring. Many suppliers will have you measure to a length that will end up too long at the sleeve, where the jacket sleeve ends up at your knuckles when your arm is down. I don't know why they insist on doing this.

    I've found that French cuffs stay put a little easier, without slipping up inside the sleeve and requiring me to "shoot my cuffs" as often. They fill the sleeve more and the friction helps keep them riding along with the jacket sleeve, if that makes sense.
    Last edited by Tobus; 7th September 18 at 06:56 AM.

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  6. #4
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    I guess that would depend on your generation.

    My generation were taught that when your arms are down and relaxed there should be no shirt cuff showing.
    The length of the jacket sleeve should be between the second and third knuckle of the thumb.



    If you bring you arm up, with the fore arm horizonal in front of the body, the cufflink should just peek out.

    Then sometime in the 70's jacket sleeves began to be cut shorter.
    With the arms at the sides 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff should show and when the arm is brought up the entire cuff should be visible.



    So I guess it comes down to personal preference which style you like.

    And I guess it also depends on the length of your shirt sleeves. My generation was taght that the shirt cuff should be at the wrist bone. Today many shirts are cut so that the cuff is down to the back of the hand.

    Of course very few jackets and shirts are tailored to fit any more. You sort of get whatever the maker's "standard" is.
    Kinda like blue jeans. Levi's fit totally different than Lees. And the fit of Levi 501 is different from Levi 505.
    Last edited by Steve Ashton; 7th September 18 at 08:39 AM.
    Steve Ashton
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  8. #5
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    Steve raises an interesting point that it may have to do with generational differences or fashion trends during different eras. But there are also differences between regions. Americans don't wear their suit jackets the same as they do in the UK, for example.

    Since we're talking specifically about kilt jackets, and they are of course Scottish in origin, I would tend not to look at it from the standpoint of American style or what we were taught here. I would look at what the best-dressed men wear in the UK.

    To be honest, it is all over the map. Older historical images show men with exposed shirtsleeve cuffs and men with no cuffs exposed, when their arms are down. I see long jacket sleeves and short jacket sleeves. It has never been universal. You just have to choose which look you think is best, or which style you'd prefer to emulate.

    Just for some visual reference, here are some examples of what looks right to me. It may not look right to everyone.

    Prince Albert in 1902 with a neat and tidy sliver of cuff showing:



    Here's Prince Charles, who always has some exposed shirtsleeve cuff showing:


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  10. #6
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    I guess the thing we don't remind people about enough is that it is your jacket you are wearing. Not mine. There is no right or wrong.

    When you walk into a shop, and are willing to lay down your hard earned money, you should get exactly what you ask for.

    Take the advice of the shop clerk with a grain of salt. Their job is to make a sale.

    If you are not getting exactly the shirt and jacket you specify, be prepared to go to someone who will give you what your money is buying.

    And nothing less.

    If you buy Off-The-Rack or over the web, search out your local tailor. Every town of any size has one. Shortening a sleeve or lowering a collar are quick and inexpesive fixes to get a shirt or jacket that fits the way you want it to.
    Steve Ashton
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  12. #7
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    I like a bit of shirt showing at the end of a jacket cuff. I have longer arms that need both the shirt and jacket to have a longer length. This would be easy if I could have all my clothes made. That is not the case. So, I alter (lately having that done for me) clothes after buying larger "off the rack" items. I swear by the work provided by the lady that alters my clothes.

    The best look will be the one that feels right as you wear the product. Also, welcome to the forum and hope you find the item that is perfect for you.

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  14. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by McMurdo View Post
    Yes shirt cuffs should be shown just like a business suit. Here is a recent photo showing what I mean



    The same outfit standing with just a touch of sleeve showing


    Thanks for the response and the pics, McMurdo. I do think it looks better with a little bit of cuff showing, whether it's a business suit or highland dress.

  15. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tobus View Post
    As McMurdo said, it should work just like any other non-kilt jacket. The cuff at the wrist should peek out a little. Like so:



    If you're ordering one that's made to size, be careful with the measuring. Many suppliers will have you measure to a length that will end up too long at the sleeve, where the jacket sleeve ends up at your knuckles when your arm is down. I don't know why they insist on doing this.

    I've found that French cuffs stay put a little easier, without slipping up inside the sleeve and requiring me to "shoot my cuffs" as often. They fill the sleeve more and the friction helps keep them riding along with the jacket sleeve, if that makes sense.

    Hi Tobus, and thanks for the response and the pics. As with McMurdo's, I think the little flash of shirt at the bottom of your jacket just finishes the look off, probably due to the contrast of the white shirt. Also, great tip on the French cuffs - makes perfect sense that the additional thickness would stop them riding up the sleeves.

  16. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Ashton View Post
    I guess that would depend on your generation.

    Then sometime in the 70's jacket sleeves began to be cut shorter.
    With the arms at the sides 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff should show and when the arm is brought up the entire cuff should be visible.

    And I guess it also depends on the length of your shirt sleeves. My generation was taght that the shirt cuff should be at the wrist bone. Today many shirts are cut so that the cuff is down to the back of the hand.
    I'm in my 30s, Steve, so I'm more aware of the style you mention with 1/4 to 1/2 of shirt cuff being on show with arms at sides.

    On the actual length of the shirt sleeve itself, I find the shirt cuff at wrist bone to look most smart.

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