The arisaid and other women's tartan clothing

[Orvis]

I've thought of doing that too, since I love the American Revolution and plan for that to be my next historican wardrobe.... just 30 years and an ocean away from my Highland woman impression!

I've not performed exhaustive research by any means, but have not seen period paintings of the 1770s-1780s containing women with tartan in their dress. I'm wondering if there were women of Scottish heritage, as you mentioned, who might have worn tartan in the form of a petticoat, jacket or cloak? I know that checked linen was popular, especially for aprons, but that's entirely different.

I was in two 18th c. reenactment Highland regiments (77th (Montgomery's) of 1757 and the 42nd RH of 1775) for a number of years and spent a lot of time researching various aspects of those units. While most of my research was focused on uniforms and equipment, drill and the like, I did learn that when the regiments were shipped to America, they were only allowed to bring four or five wives per company, and no other women. I don't know if these women were wearing tartan garments (the Disarming Act of 1747 only forbad tartan clothing for Highland men), but my guess is that they were wearing a mixture of regular European clothing and possibly some tartan. Once they got to America, tartan might have been easier to find, since the Scottish tartan manufacturers were exporting tartan to America, where it was a cheap, coarse fabric considered adequate for slaves and servants - Army women certainly were not accorded high social status themselves. As to the unmarried soldiers, they were known to have picked up domestic partners from amongst the American camp followers (not necessarily prostitutes, as most people today associate the term, but simply female followers of the Army), who would have dressed in the normal European-American mode. Of interest is the fact that each year when new uniforms arrived from the contractors and were fitted to the soldiers, the troops old uniforms (which the troops had paid for over the preceding year) often went to their domestic partners, who re-fashioned them to suit themselves - this could have included kilt or plaid tartan in Highland regiments.

I hope this helps.

[AlabamaCelticLass]

I was in two 18th c. reenactment Highland regiments (77th (Montgomery's) of 1757 and the 42nd RH of 1775) for a number of years and spent a lot of time researching various aspects of those units. While most of my research was focused on uniforms and equipment, drill and the like, I did learn that when the regiments were shipped to America, they were only allowed to bring four or five wives per company, and no other women. I don't know if these women were wearing tartan garments (the Disarming Act of 1747 only forbad tartan clothing for Highland men), but my guess is that they were wearing a mixture of regular European clothing and possibly some tartan. Once they got to America, tartan might have been easier to find, since the Scottish tartan manufacturers were exporting tartan to America, where it was a cheap, coarse fabric considered adequate for slaves and servants - Army women certainly were not accorded high social status themselves. As to the unmarried soldiers, they were known to have picked up domestic partners from amongst the American camp followers (not necessarily prostitutes, as most people today associate the term, but simply female followers of the Army), who would have dressed in the normal European-American mode. Of interest is the fact that each year when new uniforms arrived from the contractors and were fitted to the soldiers, the troops old uniforms (which the troops had paid for over the preceding year) often went to their domestic partners, who re-fashioned them to suit themselves - this could have included kilt or plaid tartan in Highland regiments.

I hope this helps.

That is very interesting, thank you!! I didn't realize that the law against the wearing of "Highland dress" only referred to the men... so if women were wearing tartan arisaids, they would have still been allowed to wear them?

Also cool that Scottish tartan manufacturers exported to America.... I never thought about this but if the wearing of Highland dress were forbidden, one might wonder, what would keep tartan manufacturers in business? What reason would they have to continue producing? However, if there were a need for it in the Colonies, that would keep them in business and they might actually make more money than they would just selling it in country.

This gives me a lot to think about and consider for my research, I appreciate you taking the time to post it. Are there any specific books or resources you might recommend?

[figheadair]

That is very interesting, thank you!! I didn't realize that the law against the wearing of "Highland dress" only referred to the men... so if women were wearing tartan arisaids, they would have still been allowed to wear them?

Also cool that Scottish tartan manufacturers exported to America.... I never thought about this but if the wearing of Highland dress were forbidden, one might wonder, what would keep tartan manufacturers in business? What reason would they have to continue producing? However, if there were a need for it in the Colonies, that would keep them in business and they might actually make more money than they would just selling it in country.

This gives me a lot to think about and consider for my research, I appreciate you taking the time to post it. Are there any specific books or resources you might recommend?

Regarding the Dress Act, you may find this paper of interest: Proscription - Tartan Ban: Fact or Fiction.

It was the traditional rural weavers that were affected to some degree by the ban on Highland Dress post-Culloden. There were few commercial weavers in the Lowlands that did some tartan weaving but it was principally a Highland art form inextricably linked to the dress and culture.

The principal commercial manufacture of tartan in the late 18th - mid-19th centuries, as opposed to the traditional rural practice, was done by the firm Wm. Wilson & Son of Bannockburn. Although there were some other weavers, Wilsons were the largest by a long way. The firm was started in the mid-1760s and quickly cornered the lucrative Army contracts market. By the 1780s Wilsons were beginning to sell tartan to the civilian market in Scotland, mainly on the East coast, and by c1790 the rest of Scotland, into England and to export abroad.

[Tarheel]

I found an interesting photo of a shawl belonging to a Native American woman. The photo is from a book titled "Wisconsin Death Trip" by Michael Lesy. There are newspaper clippings, photos and eyewitness testimony in court cases during the mid to late 1800's. This photo is circa 1892.

[figheadair]

Some interesting little snippets coming out of the woodwork about white plaids and the fact that they were regarded as a sign of being poor i.e. the individual couldn't afford dyed cloth or yarn.

[figheadair]

Looks like James Basire 'borrowed' his depiction of a woman wearing an arisaid from Burt's Letters.

[Jock Scot]

Some interesting little snippets coming out of the woodwork about white plaids and the fact that they were regarded as a sign of being poor i.e. the individual couldn't afford dyed cloth or yarn.

That is as I have always understood the situation to be, Peter. Nothing more than an impression that I have gained over a fairly long life though.

[Profane James]

More of the same....

http://www.carolynemerick.com/the-ar...scottish-women

[Tarheel]

More of the same....

http://www.carolynemerick.com/the-ar...scottish-women

Good link James. Thank you.

[figheadair]

First draft of my paper is done and hope to get it proofed over the coming weekend.