Historical Plaid wearing

[Hamish Ramsay]

As someone with connections to Clan Urquhart those pictures are fascinating. Thank you for sharing your amazing find.

Technically I have as much Urquhart in me is Ramsay given that my G-Grandmother married a Ramsay however such is the Patriarchal society that we live in only Ramsay gets passed down. Interestingly the two families are still in good contact with my brother recently completing the family tree for the Urquhart's and coming across several other family connections along the way. This provided some insight as to why my G-Grandmother may have ended up with the Kilt as only one of her brothers had children and only one of those was a boy - born after my GG passed away.

I am looking to see if I can get the Kilt, Plaid and hose repaired / restored and possibly cased for protection and display, as unfortunately it is a wee bit tight on my waist for me to wear.

[Troglodyte]

Loudon Macqueen Douglas' 1914 style-guide The Kilt has been quoted in another thread recently, but what he has to say about the plaid seems particularly relevant to the vintage kit you have -

The plaid is merely ornamental, but should always been worn with evening dress. The lower end of the plaid is fastened around the waist by a band, and the other end is pulled through the epaulette on the left shoulder. At this point there should be a rosette on the plaid through which, after it hs been drawn through the epaulette, a brooch is fixed.

He then goes on to discuss the type and style of brooch, but adds -

The brooch should always be fastened just on the edge of the epaulette on the left shoulder.

The rosetted plaid you have sounds exactly like the style Douglas is describing, and from the same period, and his advice should give you a good idea of attachement and positioning if you were to display the items on a mannequin - or wear them yourself.

[Hamish Ramsay]

Loudon Macqueen Douglas' 1914 style-guide The Kilt has been quoted in another thread recently, but what he has to say about the plaid seems particularly relevant to the vintage kit you have -

The plaid is merely ornamental, but should always been worn with evening dress. The lower end of the plaid is fastened around the waist by a band, and the other end is pulled through the epaulette on the left shoulder. At this point there should be a rosette on the plaid through which, after it hs been drawn through the epaulette, a brooch is fixed.

He then goes on to discuss the type and style of brooch, but adds -

The brooch should always be fastened just on the edge of the epaulette on the left shoulder.

The rosetted plaid you have sounds exactly like the style Douglas is describing, and from the same period, and his advice should give you a good idea of attachement and positioning if you were to display the items on a mannequin - or wear them yourself.

Thanks Troglodyte very useful guidance and reference. I will be keen to look it up. As mentioned previously my Great Grandmother is the only direct connection to clan Urquhart we have so the kilt creates intrigue as to why it come to be in our possession and not handed on to her brothers and there children. Very proud to have it in my possession now however.

[Troglodyte]

Much of the published advice of a century or more ago stipulates that the choice of tartan should be that of your clan or name - that is, as inherited directly through your father's line. If there was no obvious family clan connection, a person could opt for a tartan connected with the mother's or grand-mother's family, or the district tartan if there was one.

Alternatively, the 'Jacobite' tartan was offered as the best option.

We seem to be much less rigid about the 'right' to a tartan these days, and modern clan membership through the various associations and societies often have a 'get in' clause to joining, saying that anyone with a keen interest is elligible.

I wonder if your Urquhart connection, although seemingly tenuous now, might be as a result of the trends a century or so ago. But, however strong the link, there's no reason not to enjoy the gear to its fullest - the fact that it has been inherited only adds to its appeal.

Or you could sign up, pay the fee and strut your stuff as a membership card-carrying member of Clan Urquhart..!

[Tobus]

I really like that sporran! The aging of the hair and the relatively simple cantle design give it a nice overall aesthetic.

The details of the hose are interesting as well. Centre seam up the back (as was common then) with what appears to be a gusset-like widening at the calf. Is the red stripe overstitched onto the base pattern of the cloth, or are my eyes deceiving me?

[OC Richard]

I really like that sporran! The aging of the hair and the relatively simple cantle design give it a nice overall aesthetic.

I know I've seen sporrans like that in Victorian times but I can't find any images at the moment.

What I did find was an early 78th Highlanders photo showing a plain rim, though with leather gusset.

There's a sparse attenuated aesthetic that's seen back in the first half of the 19th century, also seen in tartans sometimes.

[Hamish Ramsay]

I really like that sporran! The aging of the hair and the relatively simple cantle design give it a nice overall aesthetic.

The details of the hose are interesting as well. Centre seam up the back (as was common then) with what appears to be a gusset-like widening at the calf. Is the red stripe overstitched onto the base pattern of the cloth, or are my eyes deceiving me?

Your eyes, well the photo really, are deceiving you Tobus, all knitted just like a woollen jersey / sweater. I was actually very impressed with the hose, especially the gusset-like widening for the calf, which, as opposed to "modern" hose, does not stretch the tartan out of shape so that it remains uniform in look, nor constrict the calf and I would guess it also ensures, along with the flash holding strap, that the hose do not slip down at all.

I actually can't wait to polish the sporran up and wear it. I have, as mentioned before, decided to set it aside or my daughters wedding as it will really be quite striking against the Ramsay Red. It will be almost a twelve month wait however.

[OC Richard]

I was actually very impressed with the hose, especially the gusset-like widening for the calf, which, as opposed to "modern" hose, does not stretch the tartan out of shape so that it remains uniform in look.

In the old catalogues such hose were called "full Clan hose, fully fashioned".

My c1930 Lawrie (Glasgow) catalogue has a photo where you can see the frames they used to knit those.

My hose, and the old ones I've seen, have a seam up the back, where the shaping takes place.

As you say the shaping to the leg makes for a uniform appearance, the diamonds not stretched and distorted as they are with tube-shaped hose.

[Kriegbert]

Thank you all for the very informative responses, much appreciated.

I have attached a few more pictures to provide more detail into the find!!

I can concur with figheadair with the plaid as that is how I managed to dress the son in law pictured previously. I wondered too whether perhaps the kilt belonged to my G-Grandmother and she used it for Highland dance and thus the need to restrain the plaid!! I see no need for the sporran in that case however as from my understanding ladies were not inclined to don a Sporran. The extra woollen flashes and buckles however are a mystery for me at this point.

I am curious, the picture of the half belted plaid: what’s the triangular portion in the upper right with a rosette attached?

[Hamish Ramsay]

I am curious, the picture of the half belted plaid: what’s the triangular portion in the upper right with a rosette attached?

I am not sure myself Kriegbert as I only unearthed this gem a few months ago and posted here to learn more of it's style and origin. Based on how I managed to attach it to the Son in Law - see original pics and post - one would think it was for "show" or similar. It is of the same cloth as the rest of the plaid and attached to the waist band not the plaid per se. Some further input from others far more learned than thee would beneficial here, I am not ruling out that my G-Grandmother was a Highland dancer and therefore required the plaid to be restrained somewhat, although what she would want in a sporran I am not sure but possibly the whole out fit was gifted her from her father.