Considering a Feilidh-beag

[Andrew Green]

Hey guys...
just another thought that has gone through my head. I like variety... and I also like historical accuracy... not that I have any beef with modern kilts at all... I am just looking to toss the time line back a ways is all. I will have 2 great kilts, and I am also considering a third after I get confortable pleating these things out and all. But I am also very much considering a feilidh-beag from the Celtic Croft. The price isn't bad, and they have a decent selection of tartans, some of which have nice earth tones, and some that have nice green tones... I may even consider a red... but I am trying for historical here, which leads me to greens and earth tones...either the "Brown Watch" or perhaps a Stewart Hunting variety, or a Buchanan Muted. While these patterns may not have been present in the time period that the feilidh-beag had eveolved, the colours appear to be relatively viable. Plus the prices aren't bad either, and I am looking to branch/experiment/diversify the modest collection I have going on. Thoughts or suggestions? How is the Celtic Croft (www.kilts-n-stuff) on customer service and all that jazz? I have chatted in a couple e-mails to whom I am guessing is the owner, or at least the main CS guy...I think Joseph was the name. Seemed pretty friendly, and relatively knowledgable.

[Planopiper]

Isn't a Feilidh-beag just an untailored strip of cloth that you pleat by hand each time you wear it? I thought I read on Matt's page that it's the bottom of a great kilt.

[Caradoc]

Isn't a Feilidh-beag just an untailored strip of cloth that you pleat by hand each time you wear it? I thought I read on Matt's page that it's the bottom of a great kilt.

Strictly speaking, a "feileadh-beag" is what most of the world thinks of as a "kilt."

See also, "philibeg."

[MacWage]

See:

For Old patterns:

http://albanach.org/oldtartans.html

One historical pattern, in wool, now available:
http://www.thescottishweaver.com/tartanremnants.html

Caledonia is a well attested pattern in the 17th and 18th century.

From Newsome's site:

" The problem with this story is that we know of numerous illustrations of Highlanders wearing the only the bottom part of the belted plaid that date long before Rawlinson ever set foot in Scotland. Remember that the belted plaid consisted of two widths of material stitched together. If one neglects to stitch the two together, and only the bottom 4 yards are worn, pleated and belted around the waist, the resulting garment is called the feilidh-beag (little wrap). The word is often spelled in English “phillabeg.” I will not go into detailed evidence of the wearing of the phillabeg here, but I will say that there is some suggestion of its use in the late 17th century, and it was definitely being worn in the early 18th century. It most likely came about as a natural evolution of the belted plaid and Rawlinson probably observed its and quickly deduced its usefulness in his situation and introduced it among his workers.
The first instance we have of the pleats being sewn in to the phillabeg, creating a true tailored kilt, comes in 1792. This kilt is in possession of the Scottish Tartans Society and is currently on display at the Scottish Tartans Museum of Franklin, NC. It contains 4 yards of tartan, and has wide box pleats that are each sewn in. This is the first garment that can truly be called a kilt in the form we know it today. The tailoring and style are different from a modern kilt, but it is a kilt nonetheless, with its origins in the belted plaid of the late 16th century."


They have some actual philabegs at the museum. I'd give Matt a call there and quiz him on what to do and what is a historical philabeg.
NOTE-> Most items called philabegs for sale are actually badly made kilts and they are trying to justify them by appropriating a historical term.

I wish you the best of luck!!

[Andrew Green]

Thanks for the links. I already shot Matt an email... he was the second person I contacted, right after the Celtic Croft. Yes, it is more or less the bottom part of the great kilt, but CC has the option of getting pleats "cheatered" in. I may go with that option, I do not know yet.
In hte way of tartans, I am looking for something that would be historically viable in the stock homespun stuff at the CC. So I guess that breaks it down to analyzing the colours.

[davedove]

I'm not sure what you're looking for in "viable" colors. All of the different colors existed, even the bright ones. Now, some colors were more expensive than others and thus not as common. Also, they probably faded quicker, both because they didn't have modern setting techniques and they were exposed to the elements more.

[Andrew Green]

Davedove:
by viable colours, I mean colours that might have been plausible around the time of the '45. If all those colours existed at the time, well, then I have a bit of a debate then don't I? I am leaning towards either Hunting Stewart, Ulster Red, or Brown Watch.... and perhaps the Buchanan Muted. They all look good, and all but the Ulster have solid earth tones in them. But I have read on Matt's site that the Ulster is a pretty old pattern...so that is a definite contender.

[davedove]

What it sounds like you're looking for is historically valid tartans. Most tartans came into being in the last couple hundred years. Matt should be able to give you good advice on that, as well as a few others here on the forum. Good luck!

[Andrew Green]

Davedove:
Historically valid would be a good way to put it. I am aware that many of the setts listed on the Celtic Croft's homespun list might not have been that old, but if the colours used are viable, then that is a decent starting point, no?
I have read much on the background of tartans, and their naming/association...and it is indeed a much more modern concept when compared to the relative age of tartans in general. Needless to say, Matt's site, and the tartan museum have been incredibly helpful (not to mention my constant picking of Matt's brain... what can I say the guy know's his stuff). If I am going for an older style garment, it only seems natural to get a tartan that is viable for that time period (Gordon Red Muted for my first belted plaid...should actually be arriving today... and the Gordon Red looks very similar to the Huntly district tartan... which is believed to be a fairly old sett...and the Gordon Red itself is fairly old, and believed to be older than the documentation)... I could prattle on and on over this...what can I say, I am just as interested in the history(both of the garment, and the country) as I am the garment itself. I figure it's the least I could do to show some respect. Needless to say, I am always learning... but then again, that is also one of the best aspects.

[Planopiper]

You keep saying "viable". I don't think that's the word you mean. You want colors that are legitimate for the period you want to mimic. Historically accurate. Valid in their context. Suitable. Genuine. Authentic. True.