Tradition of Non-Cookie-Cutter Kilt Jackets?

[Bugbear]

Well, the kilt jackets are tailored in an interesting way, as well as, the regular suits over there. A lot of ours arn't fitted at all; I think it's called bag style. They change the styles a lot, too. It does get maddening after a while.

[Jock Scot]

Well, the kilt jackets are tailored in an interesting way, as well as, the regular suits over there. A lot of ours arn't fitted at all; I think it's called bag style.

Plenty of those over here Ted. It is a shame that more people don't take a wee bit of time choosing their clothes, as we say, "off the peg", as there really are some well tailored clothing that costs the same as some downright awful stuff. Even if you are not built to tailor's dummy specifications it is often perfectly possible to venture out and not look like a clown! Apologies to any clowns reading this, by the way.Sometimes, if needs must, the bespoke route is the only option though. Unless you are lucky enough to know some one who is a master with a needle, thread and scissors!

[KFCarter]

Unless you are lucky enough to know some one who is a master with a needle, thread and scissors!

I am lucky in that way. One of my staff at the theatre graduated from our local art college with a degree in fashion design and she's absolutely brilliant with a needle... and her dad's family is from the Isle of Skye, by the way.

She's very interested in my kilts and has offered to help alter or make jackets for me, but she asks a lot of questions about style and I am struggling a bit to sort out the answers. She's very creative, but wants to keep rooted in tradition as do I. Frankly that desire is central to my interest in wearing kilts. But I'm trying to find a balance between tradition (it is Highland attire, after all), practicality (cost and comfort) with a dash of creativity (with respect).

These discussions, as well as all the post of pics both contemporary and vintage, are helpful... but I still feel I'm a bit "in the weeds." I'll shut up now and keep reading.

[Jock Scot]

I am lucky in that way. One of my staff at the theatre graduated from our local art college with a degree in fashion design and she's absolutely brilliant with a needle... and her dad's family is from the Isle of Skye, by the way.

She's very interested in my kilts and has offered to help alter or make jackets for me, but she asks a lot of questions about style and I am struggling a bit to sort out the answers. She's very creative, but wants to keep rooted in tradition as do I. Frankly that desire is central to my interest in wearing kilts. But I'm trying to find a balance between tradition (it is Highland attire, after all), practicality (cost and comfort) with a dash of creativity (with respect).

These discussions, as well as all the post of pics both contemporary and vintage, are helpful... but I still feel I'm a bit "in the weeds." I'll shut up now and keep reading.

You are well on the right lines ,if I may say so. One of the few things that I learnt in the army, that I still use today is; "time spent in reconnaissance is seldom wasted" and that is precisely what you are doing.Look at ALL the pictures try to spot the traditional,try to spot the no no's(be honest!Even if you like the look!) that way you can be traditional with the added bit of personal flair. Then ask and ask again if you are not quite sure.One last thing! Don't get too wound up with all this matching up nonsense, it really is not traditional and in trying to match things too closely stifles the traditional look. Good luck.

[KFCarter]

One last thing! Don't get too wound up with all this matching up nonsense, it really is not traditional and in trying to match things too closely stifles the traditional look. Good luck.

That is especially helpful!

And yes, growing up in a household commanded by an Infantry officer, I was schooled early and often on the value of careful and thorough observation.

[JSFMACLJR]

I have always admired well-made clothes. I have had the good fortune of having several bespoke suits made (and inherited others) and can say that there really is nothing better!

Highland evening wear is a world that allows all sorts of creativity. I have seen many evening doublets that are stunning, made up in a unique style. I have posted a number of these in the past in various Forum discussions. Unlike non-Scottish evening dress, which does not allow for a whole lot of creativity in the cut and style of jackets, one has almost an empty canvass when one has an evening doublet made.

A few years back, on the advice of a good friend of mine from Appin, I met with his London tailor to be measured for a new doublet. The firm, Meyer & Mortimer, specialise in bespoke Highland dress. My friend, my tailor, and I discussed what I wanted and all sorts of options. I knew I wanted a jacket made of velvet. I wanted the facings (lapels, cuffs) to be of a different colour. I wanted flaps. We pondered all this, and I decided I wanted a jacket similar in style to the "regulation" style evening jacket, but not quite. I wanted five buttons on the front. We decided on that number because "it looked good." The higher front also allowed for a more attractive arrangement when wearing a jabot. I chose facings out of a ribbed silk, in scarlet. I chose this colour because: a. it was "traditional"; b. it complimented Maclean tartans; c. it alluded to the connections some of my family had with the Royal Horse Artillery. We chose a beautiful shade of navy blue silk velvet for the jacket. Absolutely stunning fabric! We discussed how many pockets (inside two, and four under various "tashes"). Pretty much every detail that affected how the jacket would look and fit was gone over. I had several fittings, and the end result you have seen in numerous pics I have posted.

The options we discussed, but turned down, were also quite interesting. The one I seriously considered was going with a green velvet jacket that buttoned up, with white silk lapels, stand-up collar, and no flaps. It would be a fine jacket with a MacLean hunting tartan kilt, but I do not often wear that in the evening, and it was also brought to my attention that white silk lapels get dirty very easily!

I am very happy with my doublet. Nobody else has one quite like it, as far as my tailor and I know! I feel it was well worth the expense, as was my tartan jacket, which I love equally as much. It is a very traditional jacket, cut on the bias. Many of the rabble here have expressed the view that that is too much tartan. Well, tell that to the number of Highland gentlemen who wear tartan jackets in the evening!

One of the odd interests of mine is the amateur study of different styles of Highland evening dress. I have looked at a great number of interesting and unique doublets over the years. From this study, I have come to the conclusion that there really is no set style for evening dress jackets...one wears what one wants! I like this freedom, and while so many Americans think the point of evening dress is so that everyone looks the same and is uniformly attired, this just isn't so with regard to Highland evening dress!

[Bugbear]

JSFMACLJR , that is exactly what I was talking and asking about in the original post; thank you. I guess it does seem to be a Highland tradition, then.

[Bugbear]

Plenty of those over here Ted. It is a shame that more people don't take a wee bit of time choosing their clothes, as we say, "off the peg", as there really are some well tailored clothing that costs the same as some downright awful stuff. Even if you are not built to tailor's dummy specifications it is often perfectly possible to venture out and not look like a clown! Apologies to any clowns reading this, by the way.Sometimes, if needs must, the bespoke route is the only option though. Unless you are lucky enough to know some one who is a master with a needle, thread and scissors!

I buy most of my suits from Good Will and second hand stores, then have them adjusted a little here and there if they need it. If it's not too much alteration, I can do a little, but not at all what a good tailor could do. I have found some very good suits at the Good Will stores for extremely low prices.

[KFCarter]

JSFMACLJR , that is exactly what I was talking and asking about in the original post; thank you. I guess it does seem to be a Highland tradition, then.

A very helpful post, JSFMACLJR and a very helpful thread, thanks all.

[Bugbear]

And thank you to the Traditionalists for bringing up a steady stream of information on this subject. I have seen a number of misconceptions and myths discounted, and have enjoied learning from you all.