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  1. #1
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    19th November 09
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    Making Real Highland Games Implements

    I would like to make some highland games equipment for myself; however, I really don't want to go the DIY route(ie. stacked plates).

    What is the best way of going about this?

    I have considered buying some 4x4x1/2 square tube, and capping one end, pouring the appropriate amount of lead into the void, and then capping the top. Would this work? Is the implement going to take the abuse?

    Can I just buy solid 5x5 square steel?

    Can anyone help me with this project. Measurements, pictures, etc. would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    13th September 04
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    I made my own 28 LWFD. Here's how I did it...

    I went down to the local metal shop, after looking up dimensions online. I knew exactly what lengths of 4-inch or 4.5 inch steel rod would weigh in at 25 pounds. They had 4-inch so I had them cut exactly that length. I figured 25 pounds in the weight, about 2 pounds in the handle, and the rest in the shackles, welding and so on and I'd be *there*.

    Then I bought a couple of 1-inch bits of 1-inch angle steel, and clamped them together so that they formed a T. I drilled a 3/8 inch hole (knowing that I'd be using 5/16ths inch shackles) through the "trunk" of the T. I then bolted the two pieces together, so that the holes would absolutely line up when the piece was welded. You could also weld a half-link of heavy chain to the top. Just be sure to weld the dickens out of it and remember that "galvanized don't weld good".

    I then took the "T" and the steel rod down to my local welder and paid him $15 to attach the T to the center of the rod. Two shackles, two quick-links and a handle from the Old Celt and I had a 28 pound WFD that would measure in and weigh in, in competiton for about $70. I actually epoxied a small weight to the bottom to get the weight absolutely perfect.

    http://www.speedymetals.com/

    Speedy Metals has the information about round and square and hexagonal steel rod. You can order lengths from them, just brace yourself for the shipping.

    I priced out what a 42'er would cost, doing it the same way and flinched and decided to stick with the stacked plates. Then I scored a 42'er for WOB, built exactly like this, including the handle, off of Craigslist for $40...deal of the century.
    Last edited by Alan H; 19th November 09 at 05:18 PM.

  3. #3
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    13th September 04
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    http://www.speedymetals.com/ps-3726-...lled-1018.aspx

    from that page you can figure out exactly how much 1018 steel, 5-inch round rod to cut to make a weight that is pretty darned close to 25 pounds.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    9th April 08
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    Kelso, WA, USA
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    That is basically the same way we made our weights for distance. We drilled and tapped the weights, inserted an Eyebolt and welded it in place. Then used quick links to attach the handle. They work great. The hardest part was the hammers. We had to take into consideration the amount of steel being removed when drilled out. If they are a tad on the light or heavy side it is ok. If I get a chance, I will post some photos.

    Throw far!
    James
    James Gorley
    Highland Thrower

  5. #5
    Join Date
    11th July 08
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    This might not make any sense at all--but I always thought that a 8 inch diameter chunk of round hot rolled steel, like 1018, cut about 4-5 inches long, would probably weigh between 40-45 lbs. Not a bad practice weight for HWFD/ HWFH for a Master. A similar chunk of solid round stock at 4-5 inc. diameter about 4-5 inches long would be close to 25 or so lbs for a LWFD. Seems all you would have to do is measure out the piece to get the weight you want, then weld a chain or smaller round stock to it to attach the chain and handle.

    Am I nuts here?
    [I][B]Ad fontes[/B][/I]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    13th September 04
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    Quote Originally Posted by Detroitpete View Post
    This might not make any sense at all--but I always thought that a 8 inch diameter chunk of round hot rolled steel, like 1018, cut about 4-5 inches long, would probably weigh between 40-45 lbs. Not a bad practice weight for HWFD/ HWFH for a Master. A similar chunk of solid round stock at 4-5 inc. diameter about 4-5 inches long would be close to 25 or so lbs for a LWFD. Seems all you would have to do is measure out the piece to get the weight you want, then weld a chain or smaller round stock to it to attach the chain and handle.

    Am I nuts here?
    nope, that's spot on....exactly what I did and exactly what the guy who made my 42'er for WOB did.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    13th September 04
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    I just barked three cabers today.

    One wasn't really barking, it was a caber I worked up last year but I left a lot of the bark on where the branches came out, and a whole lot of the cambium. I've now cleaned off most of the cambium, which had turned almost black, and removed essentially all the bark. Later in the weekend it gets a coat of urethane. This is our "newbie" caber, 11 feet 6inches and about 35 pounds. It dried out a lot last year, 'cause when I got it it was probably closer to 50 pounds..

    I also barked "The Beast" which at 12' 8' is pretty short but it's thick and the bluidy thing must weight a fair bit over 100 pounds. It's well-dried out, too. It's some work to heft it around and get the bark off. I started out with our new Ash pole, 15' 10" and probably 75-80 pounds...and soaking wet. It will dry out for a day or two and then I'll belt sand the bottom 4-5 feet and put urethane on it. It will still be wet and heavy. Hopefully the urethane, and the paint on the ends will lock a lot of the water inside, I don't want the caber to get too light.

    Barking trees is some WORK. Now I just need a ladies stick and we're set for next season.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    8th April 09
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    Fredonia, NY
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    Dane

    Good to see you on here. I made my implements just like you said. The 56 is 4x4 thick-walled square tubing, with steel caps. The 42 and 28 are made from 4" ID pipe. When you calculate the amount of lead, figure .41 lbs/cubic inch. I used a really simple method to melt the lead. I used a metal coffee can with a 1/4" hole in the bottom. Weld the bottom cap on the pipe, place the coffee can over it, with the wheel weights in the can and use a roofing propane torch to melt the lead, which will run thru the hole into the steel "cup" you made and leave the steel clips in the can.

    For the handles, I made rings and triangles from 5/8" bar stock. Triangles are easy, just mark the bar into 3 equal lengths, heat on the line(s) and bend until the ends meet. Weld the ends together. Rings are pretty easy also. Use a piece of 6" pipe as a die. Clamp one end of the bar stock to the pipe, heat and bend around the pipe. If you use a log piece of bar it will look like you made a spring. Try to keep the rings as close together as possible, as it will be easier to line up the ends when you cut and weld the ends together. If you have any specific questions, PM me on M-M
    Last edited by mike landrich; 30th November 09 at 12:09 PM.

  9. #9
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    13th September 04
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    For round handles, if you don't have welding equipment, you can do this.... go on down to your local metal store and get them to cut you a 3/8 inch slice off of a section of 6-inch thick wall pipe. Get the burrs off with a file and spend an hour or two taking the edges off the inside of the ring. Get some coarse emery paper and make it smooth enough that you don't rip up your hand.

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