Dress tartan = failed concept?

[creagdhubh]

My beloved chief! Cluny! That photo was taken at the Duke of Gordon Hotel in Kingussie, Inverness-shire, Scotland at the 2006 annual gathering of the Clan Macpherson. I was there! The lad on the left in the unusual white PRC is Xerxes Herrington-long time member of the clan. Cool photo!!!

[creagdhubh]

Well, yes and no. This is actually the "personal tartan" of the Chief, so it really wasn't intended to be a clan tartan. It was also, as I recall, predominately gray, not white, as is the modern "Dress" M'Pherson.

Although I can't speak to the antiquity of "dress tartans", I can reaffirm what Jock has said-- tailors always told their clients that the dress tartan was intended to be worn at formal gatherings-- by men. Now whether that was true, or just a ruse to sell another kilt, I wouldn't know. I've never thought it odd to see a gentlemen so kilted at a tartan ball, but always thought it looked a bit unusual to see a "dress tartan" worn with a hairy tweed jack at the Highland games.

But then I'd think it looked odd if I saw someone at a matinee performance of a ballet in white tie-- I suppose it is all down to dressing for the occasion.

Actually, it is not the personal tartan of Cluny Macpherson. The 'Crubin' plaid, historically speaking was tradtionally known as the 'Chiefs' plaid, and I mean 'plaid' as in the Gaelic meaning for 'blanket' and not the often common name for tartan! There is also a red form of the dress Macpherson with the same sett-these are known as the Macpherson of Cluny tartans, which followers of the Macphersons of Cluny, who have held the Chiefship for many centuries, wear as their tartan. There is also the famous 'Breacan Glas' or the grey Macpherson tartan, which is known as the hunting Macpherson. This sett is one of the oldest known (registered) tartans of the Clan Macpherson is by far the most popular setts among the clan today. It especially wears well on the moor, since the grey, black, red, and blue colors tend to fade into a purplish hue from a distance, blending in nicely with the surrounding purple heather-great camo for stalking!

[Galician]

Just as an example, from what I said above, I finally got a somewhat decent photo of me wearing my Galician tartan.

I'm wasn't asleep. I was at a fantastic Interceltic music fest and enjoying one piece by a young Galician band there which I find particularly moving.

Oh, and I found the tag which came with the kilt. On it they describe it as "Galician Modern."

http://picasaweb.google.com/bzh.new....85674221777314

[Lachlan09]

Forgive me talking from a point of "off the top of my head" ignorance, but I thought light "dress" tartans, including white-based, were thought to be devised as ladies' "arisaid" tartans back in the 1700's, along with smaller versions of existing setts.

[Jock Scot]

Forgive me talking from a point of "off the top of my head" ignorance, but I thought light "dress" tartans, including white-based, were thought to be devised as ladies' "arisaid" tartans back in the 1700's, along with small pattern tartans.

I am not speaking from any certain knowledge here, but as I understand it "arisaids" are not and never have been the same as "dress tartans".

[davidlpope]

Forgive me talking from a point of "off the top of my head" ignorance, but I thought light "dress" tartans, including white-based, were thought to be devised as ladies' "arisaid" tartans back in the 1700's, along with smaller versions of existing setts.

Right, this is a theory that has been advanced, but as far as I can tellthere is no hard evidence for this. See the linked thread from page one for further discussion.

Cordially,

David

[Dixiecat]

I do not believe that I have seen Dress Turnbull before. I have to agree, it is quite an attractive tartan!

I think it is a bit unusual though for a 'dress' tartan in that it does not have the usual large white stripes (or other light color). As such, I would guess that this tartan may not be as good for dancing? My understanding for dancing is that you want/need large contrasting colors. On the plus side, being as attractive as it is, it might make it more popular for general wear.

Actually, one of the dancers at my dance school wears Dress Turnbull for her kilt. It looks awesome.
The only reason that white background tartans have taken off with dancers is that they standout against dark background stages or dim light dance venues. In the last 10 years or so, the colours have exploded into fushias, raspberry, turquoise, wine, lavender, etc. They are no less real tartans because of the fashion colours.

I would wear a family tartan for dancing if I had any Scottish connections. I thought I did with my Oliver great grandparents, but it turns out that they game from Wales before going to Newfoundland.

[freddie]

I read in an old Highland Dress book (I just can't remember which one right now) that 'Dress' tartans should only be worn after 6pm. I believe that their origin was to brighten up the dark tartans for evening wear in dimly lit halls.

[JSFMACLJR]

You might like to see this old photograph of the Marquess and Marchioness of Huntley preparing to leave for the Coronation of HM The Queen in 1953. "The Cock of the North" is wearing dress Gordon as part of court dress.