Am I on the Right Track for Kiltmaking?

[Alan H]

One other thing....there seems to be a feeling that there is ONE WAY to make a kilt and everything else is somehow "wrong".

I would like to suggest that in fact that is not true...that kiltmaking produces a few significant sewing and fabric and design problems, and within certain limitations.....

... there's more than one way to skin that cat.

[Barb T]

If I implied in my post that there's only one right way to make a kilt, then I apologize. I thought that I had made it clear that I was only talking about trad kilts - that's the only kind that's even discussed in my book.

[Alan H]

If I implied in my post that there's only one right way to make a kilt, then I apologize. I thought that I had made it clear that I was only talking about trad kilts - that's the only kind that's even discussed in my book.

Barb, you have never broadcast that opinion! No worries!

Nonetheless, lets take the buckle closure on the left side for example. The way Elsie teaches it, you cut the slit just so, finish off the edges, mount the buckle on a tartan strap and so on. That's how you describe it in the book. A whole, whole lot of kilts are built that way. It's a good way of solving the issue of how to fasten the kilt on the left side.

But Matt and now Lady Chrystel (and me) build the left side closure completely differently, with no slit cut in the fell at all. Both methods work. It's my opinion that one way is not "right" and one is "wrong". I think those are just two ways to solve a particular problem, or issue with making and wearing a kilt. Matt and the Scottish Tartan museum have in their collection, kilts closed with ribbons, buttons and even pins. Historically, it was sometimes done this way. I have made kilts with straps on the right and buttons on the inside, left side. Is that "wrong"?

Another example..... in the Art of Kiltmaking you write a lot about reinforcement with tailors canvas. However, there are other things out there which aren't tailors canvas which solve the problem in much the same way. You describe Elsie's method of making a waistband. Well, that way is a very good way, indeed. I, however, often reinforce my waistband with a folded-over layer of stout canvas, so that the canvas takes the load of the waistband tension rather than the stitched tailors canvas and tartan.

Is it WRONG to reinforce the waistband in this manner? Does the fact that I do so, mean that what I've made is not a kilt, or not a traditional kilt because I didn't follow the directions in the Art of Kiltmaking, exactly?

Well I don't think so, and I bet you don't think so either, Barb! It's not a traditional kilt built Elsie's way, but who says that Elsie's way is the ONLY way?

Another example...the Art of Kiltmaking describes how to fringe the right hand edge of the over-apron. I also fringe the right hand edge of the over aprons on most of my kilts. But in direct contrast to that, I point to the regimental kilts previously worn by the Black Watch and Seaforth Highlanders. Those regimental kilts did not have fringed aprons. So......is anyone going to suggest that what those soldiers wore is not a proper and correct kilt? I rather doubt it.

Anyway, I think some people are of the opinion that a kilt can only be made ONE way, and anything else is WRONG. Because of your skill in both writing and making kilts, and because of the general fantastic-ness of the Art of Kiltmaking, I would guess that "Elsie's Way" has become a defacto standard in many peoples minds...and I disagree with that, and caution against it. Mind you, I have a copy of the Art of Kiltmaking, I practically absorbed it by osmosis when I build my first two or three mostly traditional, mostly hand-sewn kilts, and I love the book and recommend it without question or hesitation.



Just my opinion.

[Alan H]

Wow...can we all say "harangue"??? sheesh. I can be one wordy dude.

[Barb T]

Hi Barb T..
I wanted to know which kind of leather thimble you recommend, as I have seen numerous styles and have no idea which is most appropriate for kilt making.

The leather thimbles that are available for quilting aren't heavy duty enough. The kind of leather thimble that I liked very much is not made any more. I now just make my own. Here's a post with instructions:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...thimble-18607/

You'll have fun at Elsie's kilt kamp! And working with good tartan is, in my estimation, really important for a beginner.

[Barb T]

Wow...can we all say "harangue"??? sheesh. I can be one wordy dude.

Yes, it was a bit of a harangue.

Of course there are lots of ways of making kilts. Basting all the pleats first is a very common strategy used by many professional kiltmakers. Pinning pleats is very common - I use pins every time I stitch pleats, even though Elsie doesn't - I can simply do a better and faster job when I pin. I also put buckles on some of my kilts the same way that Matt does. I sometimes use double canvas or double facings when I think the kilt needs more stability. I've seen linings put on in many different ways. All of these techniques produce a fine traditional kilt. But some parts of the job can't be altered or skimped on. If you leave out the steeking, the pleats will sag. In an 8-yard kilt, if you don't cut out the pleats, the kilt will be too bulky at the waist. If you leave out the stabilizer, the strain on the pleats will eventually pop the stitching. If you don't put any flare in the apron, most kilts won't hang right.

I thought that this whole discussion started because someone objected to the need to be precise and that precision took the fun out of kiltmaking. I would simply say that, if you are precise, you will have a fine-looking kilt. If you aren't precise, then maybe you'll have a fine-looking kilt and maybe you won't. It depends on the nature of the lack of precision and where in the process it is. If you're off in aligning the tartan in the pleats by even 1/32-1/16 of an inch , it _will_ show and, if it's offset enough, it will can affect the hang of the kilt. If your pleats are all too small by just 1/32", the underapron _will_ show. If, when you're doing the steeking, the stabilizer or the canvas, you catch in even a little bit of the outside fabric of the kilt, it _will_ show, and no amount of pressing will get rid of the dimple. If you allow the pleats to flare from the bottom of the fell to the bottom of the kilt and don't press them at an even width, it _will_ show, and you'll have the dreaded wave.

If all of your pleats are too big by just 1/32", on the other hand, no one will notice. If you've folded the fringe edge a little cockeyed, no one will notice. If the fell is 1/2" too long, no one will notice. If your stitching isn't even on the canvas, no one will notice. If you don't match the tartan in the buckle tabs at the waist, no one will notice, because the belt will cover them up. If you've run out of tartan and don't have a central element centered in the underapron, no one but you is ever going to notice.

[Alan H]

Ha! this is funny. I agree with absolutely everything you just wrote....

I was referring to the original posters strong concern with very high precision, and a concern I have with an issue which is only tangentially related to what the OP posted. That is,namely a perception that I think that some people have that there is only one way to make a kilt.

You were concentrating on the idea that someone brought up that precision removes the fun out of kiltmaking.

It just goes to show.....

BTW, I happen to agree with you. Being precise doesn't spoil the fun for me, though lord knows I'm more of a "get it done" guy than one that spends a whole lot of time on the details.

[Alan H]

Perhaps one of the little bits of wisdom that comes along with making a number of kilts is learning where you need to be very precise, and where you don't, and still turn out a very nice product.

As you point out, aligning stripes in the fell, and tapering sensibly requires a lot of precision or the kilt is going to look funky. On the other hand, not having a centered design stripe in the middle of the underapron will have no effect at all. No precision needed, there.

[Mark's Mom]

Yikes, I feel like I stepped on the cat's tail without knowing it. I just want Mark's kilt to look nice. If everyone asks him, "Hey, Mark, did your momma make your kilt (hee-hee)?" then it might embarrass him. I want this to be a positive experience for both of us.

After reading all the responses, I know I can only do my best, and my best will have to be good enough. I made my wedding dress and walked down the aisle in it. I want Mark to feel proud to wear his kilt to his Prom. Sometimes not knowing what you're doing wrong can snowball, so with Elsie there to give me instant feedback, I feel confident now that I can do a good job.

[ChattanCat]

One of the things that I always disliked about make a kilt is the top band not matching up with the under-apron. I did have one kilt (one out of 50, or 2%) where I was able to match the top band on the over and under apron. To have this occur, one must have the pleats at the top of the kilt be a multiple of the sett. Ah, to have the under-apron match with the top band is, for me, nirvana.

Cheers and kilt on,