Black Watch Tartan reproduction run.

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Hello I am starting a reenacting unit and one of our options for an impression is the 77th highlanders and the 42nd in the 7yrs war era. (same kilt, different coats and accessories)

I am looking into the option of getting a run of tartan done custom for us.

I want advice on the colors to be chosen the sett size etc... I am a kiltmaker and order custom cloth on occasion I just want to get some knowledge before I start a big project. Are there any kilts in the government sett existing from the 18th century? Should I use a variation of Wilson's colors or go for something different still. What about sett size?


I am planning on using Dalgliesh as they still use fly shuttle looms and the selvage is important to me to have correct.

Also if anyone is interested in getting some of the cloth I wouldn't mind adding some folks to the order.

[TheOfficialBren]

I would be interested if the price were right.

Do you mean the "brownish" reproduction or the "greenish" reproduction? I have seen both colour schemes labeled as reproduction, muted, and weathered before in various places.

[Hothir Ethelnor]

I want to get the cloth made in appropriate historical colours it will probably be closer to Wilson's shades but less vivid.

I am not looking for a certain modern color set like weathered or ancient etc...

[TheOfficialBren]

Cool. Would it be single-wide or double-wide?

[figheadair]

Hello I am starting a reenacting unit and one of our options for an impression is the 77th highlanders and the 42nd in the 7yrs war era. (same kilt, different coats and accessories)

I am looking into the option of getting a run of tartan done custom for us.

I want advice on the colors to be chosen the sett size etc... I am a kiltmaker and order custom cloth on occasion I just want to get some knowledge before I start a big project. Are there any kilts in the government sett existing from the 18th century? Should I use a variation of Wilson's colors or go for something different still. What about sett size?

I am planning on using Dalgliesh as they still use fly shuttle looms and the selvage is important to me to have correct.

Also if anyone is interested in getting some of the cloth I wouldn't mind adding some folks to the order.

I suggest using Wilsons' shades as your standard as they are likely to be pretty close to what the shades would looked like and would have been produced with the same dye-stuffs. Similarly, I recommend using one of Wilsons' 1819 settings some of which were pre-1800.

If you want to be histoically correct your cloth will need to be unfinshed (in-the-grease), single width nd woven off-set with a selvedge mark.

[Hothir Ethelnor]

I was hoping you might have some notes.

I am fond of Wilson's shades so that sounds like a good option.

Can you explain the "nd woven off-set" portion of your post?

I am afraid budgetary considerations will play into it and I'll probably order double width cloth as the price per yard is almost the same (though the setup fee is more)

As for a selvage mark how would that work? I would like some reference so I can explain it to the weavers when I decide to get started

As for getting the cloth in the grease I am all for that (I might be able to negotiate a lower price as well)

[figheadair]

I was hoping you might have some notes.

I am fond of Wilson's shades so that sounds like a good option.

Can you explain the "and woven off-set" portion of your post?

I am afraid budgetary considerations will play into it and I'll probably order double width cloth as the price per yard is almost the same (though the setup fee is more)

As for a selvage mark how would that work? I would like some reference so I can explain it to the weavers when I decide to get started

As for getting the cloth in the grease I am all for that (I might be able to negotiate a lower price as well)

Allowing for the typo, you should read this article which explains different types of selvedge techniques and will also help you with off-set patterns. Experience says Dalgliesh will not be able to work out how to do either and you will need to provide data of the full setting. With the best will in the world this is not something for someone unfamiliar with cloth and historic techniques. If you want to me to act for you please PM me.

[Woodsheal]

You might check with this unit to see what they're using:

http://musketsofthecrown.homestead.com/Home.html

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Woodsheal I have contacted them about joining their 77th unit and I've contacted another group in my home state Ohio.


http://www.77thhighlandregiment.com/77th_news.html

figheadair I am sorry about not understanding your typo. I would like to know what you mean by woven offset I have read enough to understand selvage marks. I will PM you about whether you can do some of the legwork for me.

[BobsYourUncle]

Just saw this thread. I don't know where you are in your investigation concerning sourcing this material, but I have a suggestion. You can buy Government Tartan woven from the Wilson's pattern books from Peter MacDonald in Scotland. He is a tartan historian, and hand weaves historically correct material. He is a family friend of tartan historian Bob Martin, author of "All About Your Kilt", and Peter and his father are mentioned/discussed in that work. Several reenacting groups use his material for French and Indian War impressions, and 42nd Napoleonic. Also, he has some material in stock. I just ordered from him several weeks ago. He is a much better bet than a commercial weaver, a commercial weaver does not have the correct equipment to weave what Bob Martin calls a "web" of tartan, and the structure and finish of commercially machine woven material will not be period correct, and Peter MacDonald's hand woven material will be. Peter MacDonald's website is here: http://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/sales.htm

Good luck!