Question about pleats.....

[Blu (Ontario)]

Blu, possibly, but, it seems like something that all of us with 13 oz. kilts are suffering from. In my case, I think it has a lot ot do with sitting, especially if I've been doing a lot of driving in the Lennox kilt, it'll get a bit more curled than normal. Whereas the MacKenzie or the Armstrong seem not to suffer from the curling issue. I have decided to relegate the Lennox to summer wear only, though... That way, it won't develop wrinkly and curly pleats as much as it has over the past 2 years. Probably will alternate between it and the Armstrong in the summer, like I've been with the Armstrong and the MacKenzie during the winter/springtime months.
-J

You could be right, K_J. My 16oz never had the problem. The 16oz fabric is noticeably stiffer. Do you iron your kilts or just let them hang? Canuck suggests ironing with a vinegarized water in the iron. My kiltmaker suggested the same thing. It works.

[Blu (Ontario)]

Chris@cheapkilts said..."You don't want to hit the front tho, as that would affect the A-line of your apron."...

I've steamed out and moved the pleat but re-ironed it with the taper in mind. Thanx for the heads up!

[Chris@southerncelt.com]

Glad to help. When doing something like this, it's important to keep in mind that the outside edges of the pleats are what shape the kilt. The inside edges are where the altered lines go.

[Kilted_John]

You could be right, K_J. My 16oz never had the problem. The 16oz fabric is noticeably stiffer. Do you iron your kilts or just let them hang? Canuck suggests ironing with a vinegarized water in the iron. My kiltmaker suggested the same thing. It works.

Blu, it depends. Usually, the MacKenzie seems to hold its pleats pretty well, so rarely needs ironing. Similar with the Armstrong. The Lennox does seem to need ironing regularly. I usually let my mother do the ironing... With a spray bottle of half vinegar, half water handy.
-J

[Hamish]

Hey guys. I've got this problem too!! Pressing it helps. I just thought the kiltmaker had made a slight mistake in the making, but I'm now in some way relieved that it appears to be a common problem.

Mine is a medium weight full 8 yards. I'm intending to take it up with the kiltmaker for my second kilt. I'll let you know if I learn anything.

Maybe our own personal 'Oracle of Xmarks' (Aka Hamish) may have the answer already.)

Al

Oooooh! Al. You do know how to flatter a chap, don't you?!!!

Actually, I DON'T have an answer to this one at this moment, possibly because I have not noticed this phenomenon with my kilts (Maybe I just happen to have a perfect body-shape!!!!)

It is too late now for me to start trying them on now, but I'll certainly look out for it tomorrow.

Many people found that Utilikilts had this 'curling' problem, but this was (I think) put down to the fact that the cotton-based fabrics, when washed, shrank slightly, but the thread used to sew down the pleats did not (or was it Vice-versa?!). This resulted, in time, with the one pulling against the other. Now, the Utilikilts are hemmed and I understand the problem has been reduced if not eliminated.

[Robbie]

The cause of this is actually quite straightforward, and although you may not have noticed it if the LH edge of the top apron curls forward slightly the corresponding RH edge on the under apron usually does this as well.

The first pleats on both sides are the two which are opened out the most when walking and/or sitting (particularly if you use a type of chair where the pleats hang down on either side rather than being "sat on") - if these pleats do not completely return to the fully folded position then the "excess" material pushes the apron forward, thereby turning the forward edge out slightly - when standing try sliding your fingers into this first pleat and push the inside fold of the pleat fully into its proper position - the edge turn should momentarily disappear.

For some reason this seems to only affect the 13/14oz kilt, so it seems to be one or a combination of material weight, cut/shape/depth of these first pleats, how far down they are stitched, and/or the position of these first pleats relative to the shape of the wearer.

Unfortunately the cure is much more difficult - some form of adjustment to these two pleats should solve it, but I don't know enough about sewing to say how it should be done!

[Blu (Ontario)]

On mine, the problem only seemed to affect the left side. The re-ironing proceedure in conjunction with ensuring that the lower strap is slack has helped. Not perfect but a noticeable improvement. If the problem is as common as it would seem, I'm surprised that it hasn't been addressed somehow by the kiltmakers.

[bear]

On mine, the problem only seemed to affect the left side. The re-ironing proceedure in conjunction with ensuring that the lower strap is slack has helped. Not perfect but a noticeable improvement. If the problem is as common as it would seem, I'm surprised that it hasn't been addressed somehow by the kiltmakers.

I have looked at the problem from a dozen angles and I can only guess it is partially due to the weight of the fabric and the lack of other pleats lying on top of it.
I sometimes wear an extra pin on the left side. The weight of the pin stops the problem and I like the look of two pins. They seem to balance the kilt well.

I'm currently designing a two kilt pin set.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

When doing a heavy traditional, it's best to sew-in atleast two (if not three) under-pleats on the left side. That way, when the front placard is tapered, the additional under pleats will alleviate the pressure on the bunching, thus stopping the curl. We learned this from massive experience and an accidental successful experiment! Every Pipe and Drum band that we do, prefers this build.

Also, the tapered placard on the right... along with a 5" fold... will naturally pull the bottom around the knee. Make sure to keep the front placard wide enough to sway around the body. Most kiltmakers make the mistake of having the front placard too thin. Many will cheat and sew-down a few pleats to try to fix the problem. That only comes back when washed and the material "tightens".

[Blu (Ontario)]

J.C. said... When doing a heavy traditional, it's best to sew-in at least two (if not three) under-pleats on the left side.

Can this proceedure be done on a completed kilt? Is there hope Doctor? How about a bead of iron on fabric glue.