Nice example of pleating to the sett

**Barb T** · 27th April 14, 05:19 PM

For those of you thinking about having a kilt made, one of the things that your kiltmaker will ask you is whether you want the kilt pleated to the sett or to the stripe. Some tartans have lots of options. For those, I always pin up a bunch of alternatives, take pics with my iPad, and email the pictures to the person who has ordered a kilt. I've learned over the years that what appeals to me doesn't appeal to others and vice versa!

But on to the main topic of this thread. Some tartans really don't have any options. This is particularly true of tartans with lots of stripes. For such tartans, pleating to the sett is commonly the only attractive option. I've just finished a kilt in Weathered Green Scott, and it is a wonderful example of a kilt that is gorgeous pleated to the sett.

For you newbies, the aim of pleating to the sett is to reproduce the sett across the pleats. So, when the person is not moving and the pleats are smooth, the front and back of the kilt should look the same. In the kilt in the pic, the individual pleats are a little hard to see, but you can see where the diagonal edge of the apron transitions to the straight edges of the pleats. If you look closely, you can see that the pleats are still basted (the zigzag white lines). I put the basting in to hold the pleats for pressing, and I leave it in for shipping. The customer will take the basting out after he gets the kilt.

**Grizzled Ian** · 27th April 14, 11:25 PM

I pulled out my D C Dalgleish kilt in Cameron of Erracht in the weathered palette to compare. The colouring looks the same, the sett size seems to be similar (about 7"), and mine is pleated to the sett too, but mine would probably take being pleated to a stripe, because it is less 'busy' as it does not have the narrow white stripes of the Scott. In general, my pleating preference is to the sett, except if there is a possibility that to the stripe might have a nice 'flash'.

Curious thing about my CofE (W). A noticeable proportion of women whom I have asked, perhaps the majority, have negative reactions to the colouring, right from my mother's "Yuck!" when I first opened the package; men generally like it. Barb, what gender is your customer, if I may ask?

**Mike in Dayton** · 28th April 14, 06:42 PM

That one turned out very nice Barb.

I think my IPA tartan has a similar characteristic. Comments here indicated pleating to the sett was the best option. That tartan has a lot of stripes. By the way, I did finish sewing in all the pleats. I did not like the way it turned out so I removed all the stitching and will make another attempt. Barb, I did draft you a PM but I am not sure it was actually sent.

Mike

**Barb T** · 28th April 14, 07:21 PM

Originally Posted by Grizzled Ian

A noticeable proportion of women whom I have asked, perhaps the majority, have negative reactions to the colouring, right from my mother's "Yuck!" when I first opened the package; men generally like it. Barb, what gender is your customer, if I may ask?

Customer is male, but, then again, virtually all the people I make kilts for are guys. Me, I LOVE weathered tartans. As a geologist and a piper, though, I'm not your typical female....

**Barb T** · 28th April 14, 07:24 PM

Originally Posted by Mike in Dayton

Barb, I did draft you a PM but I am not sure it was actually sent.
Mike

Just looked - it's in my Inbox. Was out in the field with my students all day. Will look at it in a few minutes!

**artificer** · 28th April 14, 07:29 PM

Originally Posted by Barb T

I've just finished a kilt in Weathered Green Scott, and it is a wonderful example of a kilt that is gorgeous pleated to the sett.

WOW!

Generally speaking, I'm a fan of pleating to the stripe, but this is absolutely gorgeous. Amazing work getting that fiddly sett reproduced perfectly in all of those pleats.
That is stunningly beautiful. From the brass buckles to the brown straps to the already mentioned pleating- everything ties together perfectly

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